nige Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 my nickle plated headers are welded at the slip joint. I drove it around for a while before doing that, and it did leak until the pipe got heated up. I decided to get it welded up and it has been fine ever since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 26, 2009 Author Share Posted October 26, 2009 (edited) idk but i was told it would be extremely difficult or impossible to remove that crossover pipe once welded ill go with a band clamp for now, just ordered one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQHUYQ/ref=oss_T12_product i got a 2" but i am not sure if a 2.25" will fit better or be loose just in case, i ordered the 2.25" also Edited October 26, 2009 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 2" it is i just put it on sometimes it still makes a racket though i guess needs some adjustment or whatever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 That's what I plan to order (nothing local has it). Can you be more specific about 'sometimes it makes a racket' and 'needs some adjustment'?? idk but i was told it would be extremely difficult or impossible to remove that crossover pipe once welded That is the same as what I was told and comprehend. Did you try any packing or sealing product? It seems like the lap joint band clamp with some 'forma exhaust gasket stuff' would do the trick for a while... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 FYI Thorley does not make the ceramic coated headers anymore for the WD21, it is actually a nickel coating that is designed to heat up and meld into the steel pipe. That said I am currently working on the exact same issue, I am going to be checking with a professional welder to see what if any problems the nickel will pose. Stay tuned. the nickel coating can easily be filed or ground off when its new. SO! 1 take it off, grind it, clean it up & put it back on 2 tack weld it for proper fitment 3 Don't be lazy do the nicer job and take it back off for a really clean 360 weld It comes off @ the collectors and should be not a problem to drop out if the vehcle is raised on a lift by a professional welder or exhaust shop. Thats how mine are done and I'd do (that part) the same again if I had the choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 you have the long tubes the problem with the short tubes is the flanges don't clear out so you need to pull the crossover pipe apart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 you have the long tubes the problem with the short tubes is the flanges don't clear out so you need to pull the crossover pipe apart HMM. good point. If I ever get a 90+ I think I'd still get a set of long tubes and convert em. Not just 4 convienece of the crosover but because I like long tubes vs short as far as locating a flatter torque band. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 If I ever get a 90+ I think I'd still get a set of long tubes and convert em. Not just 4 convienece of the crosover but because I like long tubes vs short as far as locating a flatter torque band. Show me that on a dyno for the same VG30E, please... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Show me that on a dyno for the same VG30E, please... B I wish I could, I have see long vs short on same vehcile with other models and the long tube dyno has always been lower hp and lower max torque but it picks up sooner and stays flatter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 you have the long tubes the problem with the short tubes is the flanges don't clear out so you need to pull the crossover pipe apart you could still pull the short tubes, but you would have to drop both torsion bars in order to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 30, 2009 Author Share Posted October 30, 2009 right, torsion bars are in the way i really like that clamp but when the exhaust gets hot it vibrates on the joint i think thats due to the metal stretching when hot so i gotta tighten that up some more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beastpath Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 right, torsion bars are in the way i really like that clamp but when the exhaust gets hot it vibrates on the joint i think thats due to the metal stretching when hot so i gotta tighten that up some more could put some exhaust silicone in there to help seal it, and dampen the vibrations. If my clamp ever arrives thats what I'm gonna do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 the clamp already has silicone in it when you torque it down, the silicone spreads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 3, 2009 Author Share Posted November 3, 2009 update well i took it to a shop today and i thought maybe its the studs and the bolts at the flanges expanding too i got them to check the torque on those when they were hot and they said any more and the gaskets will crush so no leaks or squeaks there they torqued down the clamp a little bit and its better now but it still vibrates when reversing or stopping i guess i should put a little more torque on the clamp even though its at 50 something ft/lbs already oh yea and this only happens when the engine has reached operating temperature Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nige Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 just weld it and be done. How many times do you expect to re-install the headers? Unless they develop a hole in them, chances are, never. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 The Walker clamps I ordered have some goo in them, but it looks like you need to properly apply it. I think I'm just going to go with the Permatex high temp, but put some some on the inside lap joint pipe as well as around the seam under the clamp. I think 1/2 of the trick is to let it cure before you start the truck. Oh, the clamps I bought specified the torque at 50-70 ft/lbs, so you can probably go tighter. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 1. Welding is not good because they are coated and coated pipes don't weld well. Also, should the pipes have to be taken apart for removal, they would have to be cut. my thorleys are welded at the cross over...i have removed them and installed them on 2 different trucks and 3 different engines...it was a lil sketchy but not too bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 The Walker clamps I ordered have some goo in them, but it looks like you need to properly apply it. I think I'm just going to go with the Permatex high temp, but put some some on the inside lap joint pipe as well as around the seam under the clamp. I think 1/2 of the trick is to let it cure before you start the truck. Oh, the clamps I bought specified the torque at 50-70 ft/lbs, so you can probably go tighter. B Yea that is the same clamp I have... The goo just spreads all around when you tighten it up and there is no curing time specified. Again, the clamp does work nicely but when the engine gets hot it rattles. I think making it a little tighter when the engine is hot will do the trick. I would like to keep the 2 piece pipe as a 2 piece because it just makes everything easier. Welding it is expensive and it would look like @!*%. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Well, I'll call Walker tomorrow and ask about the mystery goo. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathmaker Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 Mine are welded and don't look like @!*%, well just where the rocks hit them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 9, 2009 Author Share Posted November 9, 2009 i like to keep things seperate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 9, 2009 Share Posted November 9, 2009 Well, I forgot to call Walker. When I assembled the cross over pipe, I put some high temp sealant around the end of the smaller tube and slid them together. When everything else was torqued, I put more sealant around the joint and slid the clamp over it then torqued it down. It seemed to fit very well and only some of the sealant squeezed out so it should be well filled. The truck is at the muffler shop having the high flow cat and cat back system installed... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted November 19, 2009 Author Share Posted November 19, 2009 (edited) lol it just hit me since the clamp is good (its like 50-60 ft lbs. its tight enough i think), the flanges are tight, and the nuts at the studs are torqued i figured what the hell can it be and then i looked at the connection between the midpipe and the collectors and i guess thats the only thing thats left there they used muffler cement so its chipping D'OH EDIT: Solution in post #57 Edited March 25, 2010 by Tungsten Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 they used muffler cement so its chipping D'OH WTF is that, who are they, and why did they use it?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 19, 2009 Share Posted November 19, 2009 Use permatex copper. Stays flexible, and is high heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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