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DoctorBill

Replacing the Timing Belt & Adding an AT Cooler

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I would just use the block that I posted the pic of, "tee fitting" if that's what we are calling it, I never had any problems with it

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It has been almost 10 months since I replaced the Timing Belt and put in the

Transmission Cooler.

 

Been waiting for the "Big Bang" to happen - something to come loose or break,

but nothing bad has happened. Knock on wood.....

 

I have towed a 1.5 ton utility trailer to the Dump twice now and no problems.

 

I only wish I had put a Transmission Temperature Gauge in the Automatic Transmission

somehow or somewhere so's I'd know if it is running hot - or not !

 

Can anyone tell me about installing a Transmission Temperature Gauge ?

 

Where ? How ? Any threads with photos available ?

 

Would appreciate it.

 

DoctorBill

 

Sorry, a bit late to the show, but here is a link to everything you have asked for.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24503&view=&hl=tranny%20filter&fromsearch=1

 

There is a light on the dash that is supposed to come on if the trans overheats but you probably have cooked the transmission by then. I don't know anyone who's had it come on.

This is part of the reason I didn't use the ECU input signal, also for redundancy...

 

 

Dr Bill, as RJS so well said, don't over think this or try to short cut it. It's not too hard to do cleanly and properly where there will be no problems, simply benefit. The 'wiring a sensor onto a tube' is so hokey it makes me cringe; I don't recommend it at all. Do it right, do it once and move on... ;)

 

B

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What is wrong with my method of doing it? Just tap into pin 15 on the AT computer with a AA battery gauge and there you go. I think I will go this route.

 

DoctorBill: Your idea is not bad but the temperature probe may not be accurate in that location.

Edited by Tungsten

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Nothing other than there is no redundant system. I do a lot of metrology and a key concept is to have 2 different systems give you the same data, then you can consider it validated. I didn't say it won't work, just that it is not how I wished to do it... ;)

 

B

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I would also prefer the gauge as you can see the different temps compared to going with the ECU signal that just triggers a light at a set temp

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Ok for redundancy, here is another idea, instead of doing a T-fitting, why not insert the temperature probe into the dip stick location?

I think Precise1 is just being paranoid about it. I never heard of the ECU failing to get the correct reading.

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Then where do I put the dip stick?? :scratchhead:

 

Seriously though, that's a long way down there so how do you know if the sensor is in the fluid? What is moving down there that it could interfere with? Will it fit at all in the first place?

 

The T was no issue as I simply attached it to the inline filter unit I have installed. Besides, you have lines running to the cooler, so why not a T?? :shrug:

 

As for paranoid, please read the first sentence...

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24503&view=findpost&p=447214

 

What's wrong with paranoia?? It's served me well for many years... :unsure:

 

B

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There isn't much room for the T fitting, it would create an unwanted long metallic sausage that will get in the way everywhere.

I think that the electronic probe gets a much better reading than the mechanical T fitting.

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Amazing.

 

Different Strokes for Different folks.

 

Whatever Floats Your Boat.

 

March to a Different Drummer.

 

Toe-mayto : Toe-mahto

 

Whatever Creams Your Twinkie.

 

Whatever Humps Your Camel.

 

Whatever Butters Your Biscuit.

 

Do It Your Own Way.

 

Six of One / Half a Dozen of the Other.

 

DoctorBill

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:rofl:

 

Well Doc, you choose how you want to do it. Should you choose either option, we will be here to help. :)

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just had a thought, does the tranny cooler have to be mounted in front of the radiator? Could I mount it to the back of my aftermarket steel skid plate with a fan behind it as a puller and drill a few holes (maybe a few 1" holes) in the skid plate for airflow? Was just thinking it would be protected there, would not be another layer in front of the radiator, easier to plumb as the metal tranny lines are right there. I don't do any heavy 4 wheeling, haven't done any yet in the pathfinder actually since I got it so not worried about getting into any deep water or anything. Was also thinking could wire the fan to a thermostat so it wouldn't be running all the time. My local auto parts sells 2 different types of coolers, pics are better than explaining so here are the 2 types they sell, neither one specifies the capacity and I also read on here about using one from a ford explorer, any other vehicles that have a decent one to use instead of buying a new one? Pics below:

 

this is the economy one:

 

w2i0kk.jpg

 

this is their maxi- cool model:

 

s2czo8.jpg

Edited by ahardb0dy

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just had a thought, does the tranny cooler have to be mounted in front of the radiator? Could I mount it to the back of my aftermarket steel skid plate with a fan behind it as a puller and drill a few holes (maybe a few 1" holes) in the skid plate for airflow? Was just thinking it would be protected there, would not be another layer in front of the radiator, easier to plumb as the metal tranny lines are right there. I don't do any heavy 4 wheeling, haven't done any yet in the pathfinder actually since I got it so not worried about getting into any deep water or anything. Was also thinking could wire the fan to a thermostat so it wouldn't be running all the time. My local auto parts sells 2 different types of coolers, pics are better than explaining so here are the 2 types they sell, neither one specifies the capacity and I also read on here about using one from a ford explorer, any other vehicles that have a decent one to use instead of buying a new one? Pics below:

 

this is the economy one:

 

w2i0kk.jpg

 

this is their maxi- cool model:

 

s2czo8.jpg

 

The transmission cooler does not need to be in the front of everything, but you do get the best efficiency there.(100% rating) The cooler is getting the air before its heated/impeded up by the AC condenser. (70% rating) The maxi-cool one should be in front. The economy one is generally considered to be too fragile to be put up front. You certainly could mount the cooler lower, and use a fan, but by the time you've invested in the expensive fan-cooler, and all the wiring, machine work, etc., you could just pull the radiator and install a simple cooler or two on the back of the AC condenser. In florida, you don't really need to worry about cold weather operation. When was the last time your antifreeze was changed? Neither cooler you have displayed is sufficient as a standalone replacement for the radiator cooler, but as an augment to the radiator cooler either would be OK. Personally, I wouldn't buy a cooler without a rating. You need at least a 18000# GVWR or 20,000Btu capacity to operate as a standalone, taking into account where the cooler is installed, if you operate mostly on the flats.

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ok, was just a thought I had last night, I don't think it would cost much to do as I would get a fan from the junkyard and the wiring is no big deal, any machining I would do myself as well. Would just have to pick up a cooler from somewhere.

 

Antifreeze was put in when I had the JDM engine installed few months ago (03-27-10 to be exact),

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what did you pay for the JDM?

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I got it for $600, the guy tried to charge me more when I got there but I caught him when he gave me the receipt so he re-did it, it was supposed to be $650 plus tax so I gave him $700, than I noticed he didn't take off the $50 he said he would, he tried to say the $50 was already included in the price but I told him it wasn't. He tried to say the engine was listed on craigslist for $700 but I told him none of the VG30's were on craigslist that I had to e-mail him for the price so he tore of the receipt and charged me $600 out the door.

 

The engine runs perfect smooth can't even tell it's running when it's idling.

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Just an FYI for those who may not know....

 

It's a good standard policy to go ahead and replace the Water Pump when you change your Timing Belt/Chain on a vehicle.

Maintaining both of these are key to keeping a working engine that doesn't blow up on you.

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I have a 99 Pathfinder, and the power steering pump and alternator appear to have switched sides at some point since 95.. I had a heckuva time getting enough slack in the power steering belt to get it off. I ended up removing that bolt that holds the bracket and goes into the oil pump. I went ahead and put it back in before I got any further with this job. Hopefully there won't be a problem, but I am glad I found this thread before getting too far along.

 

Frazetta rules.

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In the beginning of your thread your R3 sprocket is turned CCW with the timing mark being at about 9oclock while the L3 and crank sprockets are in their proper position. Flash forward to reinstalling the timing belt on sprockets and R3 is back to it's proper timing position...

 

My R3 sprocket is exactly where yours was (around 9oclock)... How did you get it back to it's proper position? I really want my truck back on the road today but don't want to ruin anything so any help would be appreciated.

 

-Doug

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My thanks go out to Doc and all the others that contributed to this forum! Just got through working through a ton of stuff on y 95 and this was great help...

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This was a great write up with great photos that really helped me with my timing belt change. I need to get back in to replace water pump and looked up this thread for reference, Unfortunately the pictures are no longer opening for me. Is there any way to get them back up ?

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I've been told there's a browser extension to make Photobucket pictures display properly, but I haven't looked into it. If that doesn't pan out, I used this writeup when I did mine. It's for an R50 but it's still a VG and the pictures still work.

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Thanks Slarti, the extension did help !

 

Quick question if anyone's got their ears on today.

 

I am installing a new waterpump on my WD21. I was going to use Blue Permatex but it came with a gasket. Looks kinda flimsy. I am trying to decide whether to go with the gasket and use a little Permatex as an adhesive to stick it down to the new pump or just pitch it and go with all Blue Permatex. FSM says liquid gasket.

Also those little grooves at each end that help to index the pump in place... I'm thinking a little Permatex there as well ?

 

Thoughts? Experience ?

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone !!

 

 

Edited by JackStraw1
add detail

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There should be little plastic round "stick" things that go on each end of the water pump. I never had a need to put any permatex on there. But I do always put a skim coat on the gasket. Holds it still for install, and prevents any leaks from the normally crummy gaskets they ship with things these days. Never once had a leak that way.

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