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Balmer's SAS Thread


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So I've got a line on a great deal on a full drivetrain minus the engine from a '79 Chev 3/4 ton. I have yet to see the parts myself so I can't confirm anything yet but this is what I'm told is waiting for me:

 

SM465 4-sp Trans.

205 T-case

14B FF

D60

(gearing unknown at this point)

 

87Pathy (Jeremy) has and is helping me out with a ton of info. THANKS MAN!!!!! But I thought I'd list my junk and see what kind of ideas everyone comes up with in terms of links and other cusom fab stuff that's required. I'm NOT going with leaf packs so please leave that suggestion out! I'm hoping to go full-width and flare the hell out of it to keep it semi-legal, I can't afford spring over coils, hydro steer is a probability (or at least hydro assist), I want to go disks on the rear if possible. For now I'm thinking I'll keep the stock trans. and eventually trade it for a turbo 400 and do a stock, injected 350.

 

Let's hear your ideas!

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balmer,

for springs, go with Early bronco, 5.5 for the front. you choose what brand, I have ran the Duel rate wild horses and currently running the BC bronco linier rate.

I have yet to make up my mind wich ones are better.

 

Your D60 chev pumpkin in on the WRONG side. However, check on getting it re-tubed. Check with B or Mikey (nutbar) at jeep thrills, and see what it would cost to re-tube it, can't hurt.

 

With the angle of the nissan T-case and the low pinion differnetial, you might have to lift the ass end of your t-case up to get good u-joint angles, or maybe even a CV.

To run 37 or bigger, your going to have to push the front end forward a little bit, 2 inches should do, if not your tires will hit hte fire wall at full lock under compression. Its nearly imposible to push the steering box foreward.

Have a look at it, the end of the steering box is up against your Radiator.

 

If your going to link it all around, seriously consider the Poly performacne 4 link rear and 3 link front, good value.

B can also hook you up with these.

 

as for lifting the rear, same coils up front wilkl work in the rear, in the stock nissan coil buckets, You just have to cut off the tang, or you could go with some RE ZJ 5" lift coils.

 

Here is a picture of my tranny cross memeber, it may look funny but its strong as hell and I have never had 1 single issue with it.DSCF0198.jpg

 

if you dig around in my photo bucket, you will get some more suspension ideas too.

 

good luck, and if you need help, just ask..

 

but i wont' reply on here and fibc.

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Thanks for the help as always! My Nissan specific posts will all reside here from now on, I'll leave the local and general stuff on FIBC.

Well, this whole thing is definately picking up speed! The build will hopefully be completed over this winter, but the parts collecting begins now!

I'll look into those link kits for sure...good to know there's a starting point available - I figured I'd be starting with raw materials and doing it all from scratch.

I'm planning on using the 205 T-case, wouldn't this allieviate the pumpkin on the wrong side issue?

Origionally I wanted to do the radius arm thing for the front but now that I'm likely going Chev axles instead of Ford I figured that I may as well link it? Do you think it would be easier/cheaper to fab up radius arms (I think they're also referred to as cage arms) with Johnny Joints (or whatever those joints that allow for misalignment are called)?

180sx, far as amount of lift goes I'm looking at keeping it as low as possible while having the clearance for at least 39" boots. Pathy87, how long have you been running your linear springs? I know you have yet to decide which springs you like better but what differences have you noticed between the progressive and linear coils?

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I'd link it. Seriously talk to B about the poly kit.

 

And as long as you run the Advanced adaptors nissan tranny - 6 bolt transfer case, the diff will be on the correct side.

 

I've only had the liner rates in since christmas time. I've been on a dozen wheeling trips, and so far the only difference i can tell, is that the linerars ride better down the FSR. however, the variables WERE better, till they sagged then the lower rate was bottomed out and when i'd hit a chuck hole the higer rate would go bang, just a little harsher.

 

but they flex about the same.

 

I think i'd like the linear rate coils in the back better, i want to try it, but i have to modify them to work in the back for me, and i don't want to do that till i'm satisfied with the front, or not...

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  • 4 weeks later...

So after a month long absence, not much has changed. Things have been challenging lately but getting back on track. I'm hoping to pick up my driveline and start prepping it by mid august. After checking out the poly performance kit I'm thinking that it would be the best way to go, but it will definately slow my progress due to cost. I'm going to save for it, but if I can figure out a cheap n' easy way to do a radius arm set up on my D60 I might do it as an intermediate step. Damn I'm sick of IFS!!!

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I can't afford spring over coils

 

air shocks maybe?

 

 

If your going to link it all around, seriously consider the Poly performacne 4 link rear and 3 link front, good value.

 

hah, i'm actually moving to the town here Poly Performance is located in a few weeks!!! they can't really help me w/ my swap tho :/ just parts.

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Stupid torsion bar set-up is back in - no problems with the install. It was much easier than I had figured it would be. I cranked them up an additional inch so that the truck sits perfectly level now. Good enough for a couple of months, then the SAS finally begins in earnest!

post-16335-1248458458_thumb.jpg

Edited by Balmer
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  • 2 months later...

***Reality check***

 

Ok, so funds are not what I'd hoped what they would be at this point and my time is a whole lot more limited than I really wanted. That being the case, I've had to curtail my SAS project somewhat. Although my rig won't be as capable as I'd wished, the project will be more in line with what many of you are doing or plan to do, so that's a bonus in itself. I'm likely to get more feedback given the scope of my build now and I think others will get more relevant info from the thread so what the hell!

 

Here's the new deal:

 

- I'm keeping my engine, trans, and T-case stock

 

- The rear axle (H233b, with disk brakes) is being re-geared - I have yet to commit to a ratio but I'm thinking 5:14's or 5:38's

 

- I'll likely upgrade to cro-mo rear shafts once SteeevO start making them

 

- Rear Detroit locker

 

- Rear long-arm 5-link set-up see: http://nissannut.com/projects/long_arm/

 

- Front D44 from a Wagoneer (comes with Aussie locker, brand new cro-mo shafts, super joints and GM high steer knuckles)

 

- The front axle has 4:10's so it will have to be re-geared to match the rear

 

- DOM steering upgrade for SAS see http://nissannut.com/projects/DOM_Steering_SAS/

 

- I was going to go with an F-150 radius arm set-up (I already have the arms) but the axle I'm getting already has the brackets for XJ links welded on, so if I can afford it I'll go with that set-up instead

 

It's late and I'm tired so I've probably forgotten a bunch of stuff but I'll add more later. Has anyone else adapted an XJ long-arm kit??? Any input on this project is appreciated!

Edited by Balmer
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***Reality check***

 

Ok, so funds are not what I'd hoped what they would be at this point and my time is a whole lot more limited than I really wanted.

 

i know what you mean, man! i bought an axle a while ago, but the rest of the process is gonna take me foreveerrrrrr! i'm savin up a lil bit here and there. i'm also tryin to do it on the cheap hahahaha.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've decided to build my own XJ style radius arms. I agree that an actual link suspension would be better, but the axle I have is set up to run in an XJ so I think it's the best compramize between performance and cost. Anyone know how to post pics to the new site??? I don't see an attachments thingy.

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Rough Country just came out with a super cheap long arm lift for the TJ! Same front as the XJ, they may have arms to be sold separately soon! I will check and report back! have a look at their site under TJ lift kits!!! The whole kit front and rear is only $1350, I wonder if the rear would be any help, I'll check it out.

 

Simon

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  • 4 weeks later...

I picked up my axle housing, ring & pinion, 3rd member & bearings, Aussie locker, steering rods & joints, knuckles and caliper mounts tonight! Now all I need to complete my seriously upgraded D44 is axle bearings and 5:13 R&P. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow. I hope to have the axle assembled, minus the gears, by Christmas. Then it's on to fabbing up some radius arms, I'm pretty sure it's the cheapest way to go and it gives me an excuse to buy a welder and a few metal tools. I'd like to shake the rust off the ol' fabbing skills anyway.

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I picked up my axle housing, ring & pinion, 3rd member & bearings, Aussie locker, steering rods & joints, knuckles and caliper mounts tonight! Now all I need to complete my seriously upgraded D44 is axle bearings and 5:13 R&P. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow. I hope to have the axle assembled, minus the gears, by Christmas. Then it's on to fabbing up some radius arms, I'm pretty sure it's the cheapest way to go and it gives me an excuse to buy a welder and a few metal tools. I'd like to shake the rust off the ol' fabbing skills anyway.

 

get with B at jeep thrills abou thte gears.

 

if your not up to doing the install.

but take in your bare housing and let them do it. it will be cheaper in the log run.

because to do the gears you gotta take the hubs off, pull the spindle, pull shafts.. etc.

take in just the housing wiht no shafts in it and it will be cheaper.

 

Mike or darrel would do the install and i trust both of those guys completely.

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  • 3 months later...

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