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tilt in L/F tire


WiredWrong
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Your ball joint and/or UCA look wacky to me. Maybe its just the difference in yours vs. mine below (Rough Country), as you're doesn't angle at the end to correct the BJ angle. Is that a BJ spacer on there too on yours? And what's up with the nut on the bottom of the BJ? It doesn't look tightened down.

 

DSC02085.jpg

DSC02086.jpg

Edited by Mr. Pickles
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You need to get better photos of the UCA mounting point to the chassis ( looking in from the side and from angled )

The main pivot bolt looks suspect (bent) in your first photo

 

The UCA itself dosent look bent, certainly not enough to cause that much lean.

 

The Impact may have caused some/all of the mounting bolts c shims to fall out

 

Check to see how may shims are on the other side. There should be a similar number on this side.

 

Geoff

Edited by Geoff57
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They just rely on the frictional grip of the taper on the bolt to hold it. The bolt taper and hole must be clean, free of grease/dirt and has to be sitting straight in the hole to begin tightening. You may need to push hard against the joint while tightening to get the taper to start to hold.

 

From your photo you seem too have to much reverse angle on the bolt and it cant sit straight enough in the knuckle hole to allow it to start tightening.

 

You need to sort out what is going on with the UCA mounting.

 

If the all the c shims/spacers are in place then there is a real possiblity that the chassis rail is bent.

Edited by Geoff57
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I don't understand this one bit ..... the tor down the upper/lower down to 175 and yet the nuts still spins loose .

The treads are fine along with the nut , want though four sets now . About to drill holes in them and cotter pen them all

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For it not to be tightening up it is either the wrong ball joint and has the incorrect size taper for the knuckle hole.

Or the hole in the knuckle has be flogged out (enlarged) from the bolt coming loose at some time.

 

You could try putting a flat washer under the lock nut to let the taper go further into the hole and hopefully hold

You will have to make sure there is enough thread left on the bolt for the nylock nut to hold.

The flat washer hole must be slightly larger the top the taper on the bolt.

 

How do you hold the bolt to get it torqued down to 175 :scratchhead:

Edited by Geoff57
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For it not to be tightening up it is either the wrong ball joint and has the incorrect size taper for the knuckle hole.

Or the hole in the knuckle has be flogged out (enlarged) from the bolt coming loose at some time.

 

You could try putting a flat washer under the lock nut to let the taper go further into the hole and hopefully hold

You will have to make sure there is enough thread left on the bolt for the nylock nut to hold.

The flat washer hole must be slightly larger the top the taper on the bolt.

 

How do you hold the bolt to get it torqued down to 175 :scratchhead:

 

 

with a few beers a vice grip and a impact gun :whistle: .

 

I used locktight for it and now .... i think I missed something up :suicide:

something on the wheel is knocking hard , making the rig shake real hard go 30+mph

Edited by WiredWrong
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Think maby you oblonged the hole for the upper ball joint in the spindle from running it with the nut falling off? I would think that would give you some shakes, bangs, and soem allignment issues. Usually not a fan myself of my front end hanging on by hopes and dreams...

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  • 2 months later...

problem fixed ; good lord the problem was looking at me in the face the whole time too .

the T-bars where maxed out on the L/F ; so I dropped them and leveled the whole rig to norm :)

as for the knocking your going to like this ... i guess i but the wheel on wrong XD

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problem fixed ; good lord the problem was looking at me in the face the whole time too .

the T-bars where maxed out on the L/F ; so I dropped them and leveled the whole rig to norm :)

as for the knocking your going to like this ... i guess i but the wheel on wrong XD

 

How does one put a wheel on wrong????

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