Jump to content

Suspension lift information


Precise1
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'm not sure about shock length but since they are over 15 years old, why not put some good ones in there with the new coils. I'm guessing rears...the fronts are struts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha you knew what i ment. i will replace them eventually, just the finance department is down a bit at the moment. and figured anything to get me out and about quicker is good for now

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

just cause its standard height and want to lift it so i can start going out and start exploring, there not the original shocks from when it was built. i mean the ones on there now are standard height ones hahah

 

Edited by rambot1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Quick question.

 

I have read that some folks run ball joint spacers with stock UCAs. Others, no ball joint spacers with aftermarket UCAs (Superlift). Then read a few who used ball joint spacers with aftermarket UCAs.

 

I am going to buy the Superlift UCAs for sure, just wondering if I still need and want BJS also? If yes, 1/2" or 1" ? Who sells some that work with Superlifts and would they need to be welded to the UCAs?

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Curt

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question.

 

I have read that some folks run ball joint spacers with stock UCAs. Others, no ball joint spacers with aftermarket UCAs (Superlift). Then read a few who used ball joint spacers with aftermarket UCAs.

 

I am going to buy the Superlift UCAs for sure, just wondering if I still need and want BJS also? If yes, 1/2" or 1" ? Who sells some that work with Superlifts and would they need to be welded to the UCAs?

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Curt

 

 

DONT use ball joint spacers. You dont need them, especially if using new UCA's. They put more strain on parts and its not a good idea. The new UCA's help to fix the ball joint angle problem when raising your front end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

@Slartibartfast Moving this from the intro thread:

Sounds like one hell of a rig! For posting pictures, you need to host them elsewhere. I use Photobucket but it's a buggy POS and I recommend finding something better.

Do the adjusters hang down from the crossmember? If you re-index the bars in the adjusters (basically take it apart and put it back together a spline or two off from where it was) you can get the adjusters to tuck up into the crossmember out of harm's way.

Rugged Rocks makes a heavy-duty engine mount kit, though it sounds like shipping to Kenya is generally problematic. It's a simple enough design that you or someone you know who has a welder could probably cobble something similar together. A friend and I made a similar set of mounts for his Blazer by hacking up the factory mount plates and welding on a set of simple bushings he found online. The easier way to go is to just take a stock mount and weld a chain from the top mount to the bottom one, leaving enough slack to allow for some movement but preventing the mount from pulling apart.

The steering linkage is a weak point, especially if you're running a lift. I remember reading something about using one-ton Chevy tie rod ends but I don't remember specifics on that. Also look into the 2WD Hardbody steering swap, I'm planning on that for my rig at some point and the guys who've done it seem pretty happy with it.

 

 

Thanks, this helps a lot. I come back to the US a couple of times a year, so engine mounts are definitely small enough to throw in the suit case. The chain idea is not a bad one either - Is that perpetually making noise or not really?. I'll give it a try if the engine rugged rocks mounts to don't make it (or maybe in addition if it makes sense).

 

So the suspension issues are getting outside of my experience, but here is what I know/have been thinking:

Yes the adjusters hang down from the crossmember - this leaves them exposed. This is amazing advice - I have replaced the adjusters once before and already the new ones have taken a few bad whacks. Is it worth my trouble to get some different torsion bars? Such as these: https://swayaway.com/product/torsion-bar-set-87-97-pathfinder-4wd/ - They are clearly not light

 

Further, the vehicle does not have any sort of lift or change stock suspension (aside from jacking up the torsion bars a bit). Considering how hard I drive this thing, do you think adding a small suspension lift would lead to a few less problems or add even more? It would open the door for some slightly bigger tires which might help. I have been toying with the idea of bringing/importing one of those partial kits or importing a full kit. Or even just buying the upper control arms next time I'm in the states and piecing together the rest with stuff I can find out here. Any advice on these options?

 

This thread seemed pretty helpful - http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19148-94-pathy-lift-options/?p=325961 - For suspension he recommends some UCAs+bigger springs. If I bought a pair of UCAs and brought them back with me, I think I could find some bigger springs to fit out here. Seems like an easy option - but in terms of durability on really hard use, will this cause other problems? Lastly, would this lift allow me to crank down my torsion bars from max and thus relieve some stress?

 

...I'm talking well outside my understanding here, so hope I'm on the right track - and thanks again for the help (from anyone).

Edited by WD21inKenya
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you find yourself dragging the undercarriage a lot, a lift might help you, but keep in mind there are a few other mods you'll need to do to keep the rig reliable. Just cranking the T-bars changes a lot of angles. The aftermarket UCAs fix the ball joint angles, but your steering will need some work as well. The steering centerlink is this hokey dogbone-shaped deal in these, so the farther from horizontal your tie rods are (the higher the front end is), the more they try to twist the centerlink. There are a few ways to improve the front end. Some people beef up the stock components, some swap in a straight 2WD Hardbody centerlink (there are a couple threads on what all you need to do that), and a few say screw this IFS garbage and swap it out for a solid axle.

 

Speaking of the IFS, if you haven't checked your strut rod bushings yet, look up the thread on replacing those.

I've heard good things about the sway-a-ways but haven't tried them myself. Sounds like they're a little stiffer. Reindexing the stock bars should solve the adjuster breakage issue though.

 

Another option I've seen done is to just run bigger tires with no lift. 31x10.5 were stock on many of these and 33x10.5 are supposed to fit without much trimming so long as they're on the factory alloys. Then again, I don't know how easy it is to get odd-sized tires over there, and they probably won't fit in the overhead bin.

 

Not sure on the jingling, but you can get vinyl coated chain that might be quieter. There's probably somewhere you could just bolt it to the engine and frame rather than welding. I've also heard of using cable instead of chain, or ratchet straps in an emergency LOL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...