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2000 Nissan Pathfinder LE 4X4 front suspension overhaul


jproy
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Hello all,

My name is Jim. I am a new member here. I am a member of other forums for other cars I own so forum use is not foreign to me. I purchased my silver 2000 Pathfinder LE 4x4 from a family member about two years ago for $3500 with 80000miles on it. It has a dark bluish leather interior, heated seats, Bose stereo, 3.3L motor, etc. I am not new to mechanic work. I have just about every tool a person could possibly want to work on a car and love when I have to go buy another to add to the collection. I have done lots of custom work, built custom superchargers, exhaust, cams, etc. and do most of my own work. I am a car nut who can’t fathom paying someone $1000 to do what I can on a Sunday afternoon with the same $150 or less worth of parts. The parts I do buy are of OEM quality or better. I usually find them for about 25% off when I buy OEM at sites I have found through forum friends. I have changed the head unit to a Sony since the OEM CD player quit working. I have changed the timing, valve cover gaskets, thermostat, and associated parts. The car runs like a champ and I love it. It is a solid truck and my wife like driving it more than her new 40K lux suv. I have always done my work on high-performance cars I’ve owned and am now having problems with the Pathfinder that are starting to cause concern for safety. That’s me in a nut shell. I have searched through the Pathfinder forums and found this to be one of the best. I have always used the forums to bounce ideas of others and learn.

 

Here is the scoop, My Pathfinder has a vibration in the wheel at random speeds and an alarming clunk under the front suspension when going over potholes. There is also a clunk when yanking the wheel from side to side while in park. The car does not have the infamous Pathy highway wobble. She currently has 110,000 miles on the clock. I changed the rotors and pads. This did not cure the problem. I then put it on the rack and found the front differential mounts were shot. Changed ‘em. Changed the front axles while I was there because the boots had cracked and why not at this mileage. I have four new shocks on the car, the hat bearings at the top of the springs in the front were replaced as well as the lower balls.

 

I climbed under the car with the wife swinging the steering wheel wildly from side to side to see where the clunk was coming from. Once under there I realized both the bushings that connect the lower arm to the sub frame are completely deteriorated on both lower arms. I could see both lower arms shifting back and forth as the wife yanked the wheel as well as torn fresh black rubber. Next I noticed the steering rack was shifting about 2-4 MM in the bushings that are supposed to hold it still. They look pretty deteriorated also. There are two of them that wrap around the rack. I also found that the inner or outer tie rods have play in them. My question to the experts here is this,

 

1) do I need to replace the whole lower arm or can I get just the bushings?

 

2) What do you know about what I need to replace to eliminate the steering rack movement?

 

3) And at this mileage are there any parts on the rear suspension I should closely examine for similar bushing damage. I will look the whole thing over anyway but I thought I’d ask.

 

4) Are there any upgrades I can make to the front brakes like putting larger calipers and rotors from a beefier vehicle that will bolt right in place of the existing parts and clear the OEM wheels on the car.

 

5) As far as I know the rear drums have never been worked on. Is it safe to turn the OEM drums or should I just replace them and the pads altogether.

 

6) Also, should I replace the master cylinder? What is the average service life on it?

 

7) Are there any known problems with this car I should look into that TSB’s were issued for or that you guys know of.

 

8) Where is the best place to purchase NEW OEM Nissan parts with deep discounts? Like 20-35% off MSRP?

 

9) Is there a supercharger for my Pathfinder in production.

 

I have searched all of these topics on this and most of the boards and haven’t come up with much useful information relevant to my situation with conclusive setups or known problems specific to my vehicle. There have been a few sites I have found for parts but no good lists of where to go. I found the online service manual and downloaded the whole thing. I will wait to hear from you before I start buying parts.

 

Well, I would appreciate all of your input on how I should approach this repair and what problems to look for in addition to what I have found. I have noticed that there is no separation of topics of threads in this Pathfinder section of this forum. I think the Moderators here should create sub categories for the Pathfinder forum like suspension upgrades, known problems, DIYs, frequently asked questions, etc. They are very helpful. Thanks for all of your time, Jim :)

Edited by jproy
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1) do I need to replace the whole lower arm or can I get just the bushings?

 

The bushings are available separately through http://www.4x4parts.com. You can get either the OEM (special order, call them), or Poly bushings which will firm up the ride for you a bit.

 

) What do you know about what I need to replace to eliminate the steering rack movement?

 

You'll need to replace the steering rack bushings. Nissan put the oil filter directly above them and we all know what oil does to rubber bushings. They're very inexpensive and available through your dealer, or through one of the many online Nissan parts sources. http://www.courtesyparts.com or http://www.nissanparts.cc

 

3) And at this mileage are there any parts on the rear suspension I should closely examine for similar bushing damage. I will look the whole thing over anyway but I thought I’d ask.

 

Upper and lower control arm bushings, anti-sway bar bushings and links.

 

4) Are there any upgrades I can make to the front brakes like putting larger calipers and rotors from a beefier vehicle that will bolt right in place of the existing parts and clear the OEM wheels on the car.

 

Not per se. However, there are drilled rotors available from StopTech.

 

5) As far as I know the rear drums have never been worked on. Is it safe to turn the OEM drums or should I just replace them and the pads altogether.

 

Yeah, it's safe to turn the OEM drums, provided there's enough of them left to turn. I got 170k out of my original drums and shoes, just to give an idea.

 

6) Also, should I replace the master cylinder? What is the average service life on it?

 

I wouldn't worry about that at this time. Pezzy had some trouble with hers, but she's running larger tires. I've got over 170k on my original M/C will no problems.

 

7) Are there any known problems with this car I should look into that TSB’s were issued for or that you guys know of.

 

Fuel filler neck was recalled. Your dealer will replace it free of charge.

Also the seatbelts are notoriously weak. They're also covered by a federal lifetime warranty, so have the dealer do that, as well. Might as well, it's free. :)

 

8) Where is the best place to purchase NEW OEM Nissan parts with deep discounts? Like 20-35% off MSRP?

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com

http://www.nissanparts.cc

 

9) Is there a supercharger for my Pathfinder in production.

 

"In Production." Not anymore. There used to be a company in Buffalo, NY that did them, but they're not available anymore. There were a few people a couple years ago who supercharged the 3.3L, but there's limited gain from it. A cam regrind is good for 20-30hp, though.

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for the supercharger, since you already have experience in making and fitting some, you might benefit from this discussion here :

 

http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...part=1&vc=1

 

 

but i'm sure fueler and other members here could tell more stories...

 

welcome to npora!

 

S.

Edited by fleurys
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I wouldn't worry about that at this time. Pezzy had some trouble with hers, but she's running larger tires. I've got over 170k on my original M/C will no problems.

 

Not on my pathy... Master Cylinder is original. (everything ELSE brake wise... well... lol)

 

Welcome to NPORA jproy... we do have some sub-forums as per your suggestion, but not quite as neatly organized as you mentioned... there is a how to section in "the garage" for DIY projects... most of the more frequent or important topics are stickied at the top of each pathfinder's subsection.

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I really appreciate the through responses so quickly! It is not on every forum you can find the quick desire to help much less enough traffic to elicit the responses. Very nice!

 

All the posts and references were very helpful. I have looked at all of them and will be placing an order tonight. I happen to have an MP90 and an MP62 sitting at the house so I may have to fab something when I get the time. I am building another motor up at the moment so it is not in the cars right now.

 

I am most interested in maintaining the stock ride. By firming up the suspension with polly mounts do you mean like a BMW or rougher and noisier over bumps? If the Polly mounts will make a ton of noise and a rougher ride I don't really want them.

 

Are there any parts I should replace like engine mounts or a forum rated all out best road bran of shocks/struts is should use etc.

 

What do any of you know about the custom cams and the ECU upgrade? is it worth it and what have the experiences here been?

What are the most notable engine upgrades other than forced induction?

Also have any of you done the limited slip rear differential? Stock is an Open face, correct? experiences? Looks promising. I hate spinning one wheel in the rain.

i also noticed the upgraded rear springs. Any experiences there?

 

Thanks again, Jim

Edited by jproy
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The poly bushings wont make it anywhere near BMW stiff, I would get them for the durability mainly...

 

as for the clunking, my sway bar links on both front and rear started clunking at around 115k, replacing them cured it nicely

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The poly bushings wont make it anywhere near BMW stiff, I would get them for the durability mainly...

 

as for the clunking, my sway bar links on both front and rear started clunking at around 115k, replacing them cured it nicely

 

You mean the bushings, or the links themselves? I got A/M front and back, and I think my rear bushings are starting to go (lots of nasty clunks at slow speeds).

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The poly bushings wont make it anywhere near BMW stiff, I would get them for the durability mainly...

 

as for the clunking, my sway bar links on both front and rear started clunking at around 115k, replacing them cured it nicely

 

when I said BMW I meant good smooth quiet ride. That it drives very well, not any more rough riding than stock or even smoother possibly, but more responsive than OEM, plus the druability. Are the polly bushings better in every way? what are the negatives like squeaks, noise, noticibly harsh ride, etc?

Edited by jproy
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I will be replacing the front;

lower arm bushings,

steering rack bushings,

ball joints,

Inner and outter steering tie rods,

front sway bar links.

 

on the rear;

sway bar links,

the upper and lower arm bushings still feel firm and look good from what I can see

 

Any recomendations for parts or while I have it torn down? Thanks, Jim

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sounds like you got it covered...i like the poly better than the rubber mainly for the durability, I can't comment on how much they will change the ride quality (I doubt it would be noticeable though).

 

The only thing is to make sure you grease EVERYTHING you replace or youll most likely get squeaks...

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Im going to get the polly and see who it goes. I will write a review when I do them next week or in January. The lady previously mentioned as the wife and I get married on the 20th so I will be busy. Sorry for the lie.

 

 

 

Are there any parts I should replace like engine mounts or a forum rated all out best road bran of shocks/struts is should use etc.

 

What do any of you know about the custom cams and the ECU upgrade? is it worth it and what have the experiences here been?

What are the most notable engine upgrades other than forced induction?

Also have any of you done the limited slip rear differential? Stock is an Open face, correct? experiences? Looks promising. I hate spinning one wheel in the rain.

i also noticed the upgraded rear springs. Any experiences there?

Edited by jproy
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A couple members have done cams with decent results. Systemf just completed his.

 

A cold air intake can help, however, not a good idea if you're going to wheel it.

 

There are some stock LSD equipped trucks. Maybe look for someone selling a rear end with the same gearing as your truck.

 

Leaf springs?!?! WTF?!?!? No leafs on a Pathfinder.

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Leaf springs?!?! WTF?!?!? No leafs on a Pathfinder.

 

 

Excuse me! Dont know how that crap fell on the key board. The Pathfinder obviously does not have leaf springs.

 

 

I bought the front and rear poly bushings for the front lower arm

the 8 one piece bushings for the rear upper and lower trailing arms

new brakes for the rear,

the front balls,

outer tie rods,

sway bar end-links front and rear,

manual hubs for the front,

upper end-link bushings for the rear links,

both steering rack mounts.

 

I’m going to have the rear drums turned assuming they are thick enough. I will flush all the lines brake lines with Motul, do the oil with synthetic M1 10W-30, Seafoam, etc. Should get to it the first week in January. I should have a nice ride after I install everything.

 

Soon as the tires are done I'll get some black steel wheels and BFG's, probably 29-31". Suggestions?

 

Next will be the comp cams with new lifters and the CAI with a port match and polish to the UIM and the LIM courtesy of me. Not going to play with the heads. Does the board have a preferred CAI proven to show the most gains in WHP on a dyno or something recommended?

 

After that I will probably do the HD suspension package mentioned above if all goes well for the testers. The ECU upgrade doesn’t seem to be worth it.

 

I want a beast but it has to be streetable, stable, and comfy on the interstate at 80mph.

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Excuse me! Dont know how that crap fell on the key board. The Pathfinder obviously does not have leaf springs.

I bought the front and rear poly bushings for the front lower arm

the 8 one piece bushings for the rear upper and lower trailing arms

new brakes for the rear,

the front balls,

outer tie rods,

sway bar end-links front and rear,

manual hubs for the front,

upper end-link bushings for the rear links,

both steering rack mounts.

 

I’m going to have the rear drums turned assuming they are thick enough. I will flush all the lines brake lines with Motul, do the oil with synthetic M1 10W-30, Seafoam, etc. Should get to it the first week in January. I should have a nice ride after I install everything.

 

Soon as the tires are done I'll get some black steel wheels and BFG's, probably 29-31". Suggestions?

 

Next will be the comp cams with new lifters and the CAI with a port match and polish to the UIM and the LIM courtesy of me. Not going to play with the heads. Does the board have a preferred CAI proven to show the most gains in WHP on a dyno or something recommended?

 

After that I will probably do the HD suspension package mentioned above if all goes well for the testers. The ECU upgrade doesn’t seem to be worth it.

 

I want a beast but it has to be streetable, stable, and comfy on the interstate at 80mph.

tire size is your preference...taller tire has obvious benefits but less mileage, so thats your choice...

 

and there is no CAI for our trucks, only an SRI or a MAF adapter plate for a cone filter, but Im sure you could build one without too much trouble

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and there is no CAI for our trucks, only an SRI or a MAF adapter plate for a cone filter, but Im sure you could build one without too much trouble

 

Ahem....

 

If this doesn't qualify as a Cold-Air Intake...then I don't know what would!

 

normal_P1000244.JPG

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That does qualify. I think I am going to do the pipe trick, routing cold air up to the intake from one of the fog grill inserts. Where can I get the MAF adapter plate for a cone filter? Thanks, Jim

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That does qualify. I think I am going to do the pipe trick, routing cold air up to the intake from one of the fog grill inserts. Where can I get the MAF adapter plate for a cone filter? Thanks, Jim

 

 

I've got the Jim Wolf PopCharger sitting around somewhere....probably in my storage unit.

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