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BonnerBB
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Have a new to me 91 pathfinder... I have been daily driving it for a month to make sure that it is mechanically sound before I sink a little $ into her.

 

First thing I was going to do was give her some new blood as I don't know if or when any fluids were changed in her past 130ish miles.

 

After reading post after post after post on this forum and talking to my oil technician - here is what I am thinking...

 

Motor Oil: Good name brand non-synthetic oil with a quart of LUCAS Oil Stabilizer

Manual Transmission: Redline MT-90

Trasfer Case: Redline MT-90

Rear Diff: 50% Lucas Oil Stabilizer and 50% 80w-90

Front Diff: 20 % Lucas Oil Stabilizer and 80% 80w-90

 

The percentages came from a representative at Lucas:800-342-2512

Lucas does not make a GL4 rated manual transmission additive just the GL5.

I chose Lucas Oil Stabilizer because all I have ever heard was good things about it.

 

Lucas recommends 25% Lucas and 75% GL4 for the manual transmission but from what I can gather is most of you use the Redline MT-90.

 

Any suggestions, comments, and/or concerns would be VERY MUCH appreciated!!!

 

Any other fluids I should consider changing?

Edited by BonnerBB
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I read that the detergents in the synthetics made one guys motor start leaking because it cleaned around the seals too good!

 

I was not going to do synthetic in the diffs either... Just some regular ole' 80w-90

 

I am open to suggestions... How about I do this a different way.

 

What would you recommend?

 

Motor Oil:

Manual Transmission:

Trasfer Case:

Rear Diff:

Front Diff:

Other?

Edited by BonnerBB
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Personnaly after my bad experience with redline, i wouldn't use it. (after switching, my seals from tranny to t-case failed, causing my tranny to drain all its oil into the t-case out in the middle of nowhere)

 

Look for some industrial lube oil for you tranny.

most of the time you can only buy it 5 gallon buckets. I'm using Omala 320 wich is SAE 150. but is soft metal compatible (i know this cause we use it in our high end gear boxes with thrust bushings, plus i have verified this with shell).

its a bit thick, but my tranny was on its last leg when i switched it. I've been running it for 9 months without issue).

You can probably get some shell omala 220 wich is SAE 90. just dont use th HD. this has phosphorus anti wear additives that react with your sincros and eat them up.

 

BTW, a 5 gallon bucket of omala 320 was only 60 dollars

Edited by 87pathy
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My tranny is on it's last leg too... Only time it doesn't grind is on a cold morning when the oil is real cold and thick... As it heats up from driving it's back to me having to double clutch when I shift in order to change gears without the GRR....IN...DING! I am amazed at how many transmission shops that I have talked to that don't know what double clutching is... http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=pI3cHXnGEx4

 

I plan on driving this transmission into the ground before replacing it so I just wanted to prolong it's life a little bit.

 

So maybe the standard transmission fluid with the Lucas would be better since the thick cold stuff seems to help in the mornings versus doing the redline.

 

What would you recommend?

 

Motor Oil:

Manual Transmission:

Trasfer Case:

Rear Diff:

Front Diff:

Other?

Edited by BonnerBB
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well since your tranny is that bad.

 

Motor Oil: Valvoline 10-40 high milage

Tranny: Shell Omala 320 (NOT HD)

Transfer case 80-90

Rear diff 90-150

Front diff 90-150

 

Many people will tell you that the 150 is too thick.. BS. Been running it in both of my HP diffs for 2 years. and is MANDITORY for my HP9"

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yup, i agree, the 150 is way, way too thick. just because you haven't found out the problem just yet, does not mean your junk isn't going to go bad. :D

 

um.. ya, whatever.

like i said, it is MANDATORY from a couple of aftermarket differential companies.

 

150 for your diffs is not too thick.

it is a bit thick for your tranny.

 

I deal with oil and gears and hydraulics for a living.

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Well, if you are going to use synthetics, use them everywhere. But, once you use them, dont go back. The added life of synthetic fluid should balance cost. Me, I use what we have at work, Kendall synthetic blend 5w-30. I also change my oil every 3500-4000. Oil comes out a little dark, but not bad. Heres my 2 cents...

 

Motor Oil: Your choice 5 or 10w-30, just dont use cheap no-brand stuff

Manual Transmission: Redline MT-90

Trasfer Case: Auto trans fluid. Mercon/Dexron 3. Ive ran that for the longest time with very little problems in my rig and my customers rig

Rear Diff: 80-90

Front Diff: 80-90

Other? Like I said, if you want to run synthetics, make them all synthetic to get the best bang for the buck. AS for additives, well, its up to you if you want to spend the extra cash. Regular inspection and maintenence will also go a long way.

Edited by 5523Pathfinder
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Well, this is what I did for my 'new' 95 just a few months ago...

 

Motor Oil: Motor flush with old oil/filter. Replaced oil/filter with the cheapest I could find. Drove 1 week (less than 100 miles) then another motor flush. Then Castrol synthetic/dino blend 10-40 with a bosch oversized filter (oil filter relocation kit).

 

Manual Transmission: This one is an automagic but in the old manual: 80w-90 with 1 pint lucas stabilizer. Shifted a bit stiff when cold (30-40 degrees F) for the first 5 miles, then fine. Make sure to 'overfill' the tranny to 5.1 liters as per the TSB pinned at the top of the garage section!!! *IMPORTANT*

 

Transfer Case: ATF dextron 3

Rear Diff: Lucas 80w-90

Front Diff:Lucas 80w-90

They claim it is good for LSD differentials and "contains 'climbing additives'" I didn't add any Lucas stabilizer since I'll be changing it out within 1 year/6k miles as a flush and to see if there is any metal particulate accumilated. Some is a good idea, but 50% seems excessively high. Yes, I like Lucas products.

 

Other? YES!! Completely flush your brake system!!! Buy a quality brake fluid and drain what you can from the MC (hint:turkey baster). Fill and pump through at least once, then do the other tires as well. I'll assume you know the proper sequence.

 

 

I deal with oil and gears and hydraulics for a living.

I am certainly not going to argue with the experts, but I generally go with the manufacturers specs (but 'quality' fluids), flush it once when in doubt and generally keep up on the recommended/sensible intervals. I have never had a tranny/rear end/etc develop problems, much less fail... I also generally don't beat on my vehicles. :shrug:

 

B

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I had the transmission oil changed today! There were lots of chunks of metal attached to the magnet. I knew there would be some metal fragments but to tell you the truth I was expecting much more metal!

 

Filled it with ONE bottle of Lucus Synthetic Oil stabilizer:

73BC853A4E88BE99B4DEE722811666A8.gif

 

Then topped it off with MT-90:

46.jpg

 

Didn't have the time to top the transmission off through the gear shifter but will try too get to it real soon.

 

B-

Edited by BonnerBB
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to change oils doesn't take much knowledge nor thinking. monkey wrench will do.

 

My point was to give other alternatives to going synthetic and knowing what else will work.

 

the only thing i run in my pathy that is recommended from the manufacturer is the engine oil.

 

I have been using alternatives for a long time. Just made this statement so others can have viable information thats comming from somebody who knows what they are talking about.

 

for example. dino GL4 is getting hard to find.

But you can use Mobile - mobilgear 630 (which is a GL5)(sae90) and it will be fine. The issue with most GL5 is that it contains antiwear additive. Antiwear additives are made up of Phosphorus and other addatives. Soft meatals have phosphorus in them as well.

Now, phosphorus is a loose term, it can be alcoline or acidic. When you start mixing different PH levels together at unknown amounts and ratios, this is what "eats" up your sincros.

 

Shell omala 220 is also OK.

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  • 9 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Just got off of the phone with Royal Purple and he said that I don't have a syncro nor a transmission problem and that putting sae150 in the transmission will most likely not fix my problem. He said my clutch and clutch slave most likely have moisture in them and that I need to bleed the clutch and clutch slave.

 

He said the moisture in the lines is causing the clutch to not fully disengage and bleeding the lines will most likely will solve my grinding problem.

 

I am going to have this done today and will report back..

 

B-

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Call me old school but.

 

Motor Oil: anything 10w40 with a bottle of STP

Manual Transmission: anything 85w

Trasfer Case: see above

Rear Diff: see above

Front Diff: see above

Other?

 

I think people spend too much time worrying about fluid brands.

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