systemf Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 I tore apart the caR50 tonight and got the cams out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 #1 TDC This damn thing never wants to come apart. Finally I got it off. This took an hour. Left Valve cover off. Right hand valve cover off. I made this tool to get the rear cam bolts off and it worked great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 Rubber bands to hold the lifters in. Tons of dirt stuck behind the timing belt cover on the cam seal. Cams have room to come out. The cams looked to be in good condition. I am going to resurface the lifters and reuse them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 (edited) Last night I resurfaced the lifters. They look just like the picture (in the link below), before you could see wear lines. Now I am waiting on parts to come in........... http://redz31.suomiz.net/pages/headwork.html#lifters Here are some pictures of the lifter resurfacing. This was done with 1000grit and some wD40 on the paper. The picture was taken on the first pass. All lifters got two passes just to make sure the previous wear had been removed. This one is blurry but you get the idea, right is resurface, left is not. further away Edited November 25, 2008 by systemf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Last night I resurfaced the lifters. They look just like the picture (in the link below), before you could see wear lines. Now I am waiting on parts to come in........... http://redz31.suomiz.net/pages/headwork.html#lifters Here are some pictures of the lifter resurfacing. This was done with 1000grit and some wD40 on the paper. The picture was taken on the first pass. All lifters got two passes just to make sure the previous wear had been removed. This one is blurry but you get the idea, right is resurface, left is not. further away what grind are your running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 what grind are your running? Intake/Exhaust, 260/270, .420"/.440 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Intake/Exhaust, 260/270, .420"/.440 keep us posted on how it runs when you get it in there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 26, 2008 Author Share Posted November 26, 2008 keep us posted on how it runs when you get it in there.... Better...I have a before Dyno sheet and will get an after dyno run so I can say EXACTLY how much power and were you can expect that power to be. I will also report on the OBDII compatiblity...something no one has done yet to my knowledge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 Better...I have a before Dyno sheet and will get an after dyno run so I can say EXACTLY how much power and were you can expect that power to be. I will also report on the OBDII compatiblity...something no one has done yet to my knowledge. where did you get the cams from, i couldnt find that grind on 4x4parts.com or @ motorsport auto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XPLORx4 Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 where did you get the cams from, i couldnt find that grind on 4x4parts.com or @ motorsport auto Google for "schneider cams". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 26, 2008 Author Share Posted November 26, 2008 Google for "schneider cams". Schneider can do whatever grind you want. Also, these are REGRINDS, not new cams. Now if my cams could get here so I can put the damn thing back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted November 27, 2008 Share Posted November 27, 2008 Google for "schneider cams". i know about schneider thats what motorsport auto sells for the z's.... im running the 274/274 480/480 in my 280z... i like that grind, im curious if i would have the same results in the vg30 as i did in the l28... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 27, 2008 Author Share Posted November 27, 2008 i know about schneider thats what motorsport auto sells for the z's.... im running the 274/274 480/480 in my 280z... i like that grind, im curious if i would have the same results in the vg30 as i did in the l28... Not sure about that grind. It will lope at idle. Truck is back together. Drove it 10 miles with the timing off and didn't reset the ECU so no accurate performance data. It does idle pretty tough (almost sounds really low like a small V-8) and has a mild lope. No OBDII codes so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 27, 2008 Author Share Posted November 27, 2008 (edited) Turns out I had a vacuum line disconnected and the MAP EGR lines crossed. Engine runs much better. Lost a little low end. Anything above 2k is better than before. Above 3k the engine REALLY starts to pull. Dyno results will be much more accurate than my butt. One thing I noticed is that the engine runs a lot smoother except at idle where the lope is much more defined than I thought. It almost sounds like a muscle car, and the vibrations can be slightly felt inside the cab. Anything above 1k is vibration free. I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THIS GRIND FOR AUTOMATICS. A much milder grind would suite them well. This is based off where I cruise on the highway (around 2.6k to 3k) VS my QX4 which would cruise at 2.2k to 2.7k with tires. Schneider does offer milder grinds that would work for the auto. I will have gas mileage numbers in a couple of weeks. Edited November 27, 2008 by systemf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 28, 2008 Share Posted November 28, 2008 Nice work man. Keep us posted on how she cruises on the highway, and your mileage numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted November 30, 2008 Author Share Posted November 30, 2008 I will post all updates here: http://overlandtrucks.com/phpB....php?t=1527&start=15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marooncobra Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Systemf, I did this mod last year with some JTW S1 Cams, see the following link http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15422 Don't understand why the moderators pinned it in the 'Garage How To' section as it is specific to the R50. Car is running real good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 Why wouldn't it be in the How-To section? You wrote up an article on how to do the job complete with pics. Thanks for that, BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
systemf Posted December 3, 2008 Author Share Posted December 3, 2008 (edited) Why wouldn't it be in the How-To section? You wrote up an article on how to do the job complete with pics. Thanks for that, BTW. I know, and I used your results as one of the determining factors for doing mine. I did want hard evidence of what the cams give you which is why I ran the dyno tests (still have to run the after dyno test). Also, I'm not sure if there is something different on the left hand steer models in North America, but I couldn't get that swivel rachet to fit on the left hand side cam bolt so I built my own tool. I even purchased the same rachet you showed in the pics. Also when you pulled the harmonic balancer using the jaw pulled there is a risk of destroying the rubber on between the pulley's and the balancer or chiping the brittle metal off around the pulley end. I learned this the hardway because mine always sticks requiring tons of force to get it off. The correct type of puller to is pictured and will not destroy the balancer assuming you have the bolts threaded in. You can just barely see some chips in the outside of my pulley caused from trying to remove it with a jaw type puller. The puller I am using requires two bolts and I think they are M6 .75 pitch about 3 inches long and some large washers. Oh and they used your post in the HOW-TO because it does apply to most VG motors. The firewall maybe a little different, but almost everything else is similar enough where it counts. Edited December 3, 2008 by systemf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jproy Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 (edited) So when is the after dyno coming? I would love to know what the numbers where? Anyone tried the cams from the 4X4pars.com site? They say they are billet cut and not regrinds. $550 for the VG33 in the 2000 path. Edited December 10, 2008 by jproy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted December 10, 2008 Share Posted December 10, 2008 (edited) So when is the after dyno coming?x2the 4x4parts cams are actually JWT s1 & s2 cams. IMO the specs on both of them breathe too well for bottom end but are great for midrange and up. If anyones interested here is A cam card with the specs for the custom grind I will one-day be getting for my vg30i Its basically 252/248 in/ex duration (frist 2 #s) with .45/.42 in/ex lift(2nd to last 2 #s) the other #'s define overlaps & lobe center locations. the exhaust duration is stock and the intake duration is longer to compensate for the TBI manifold the exhaust lift is the same as the JWT/4x4parts S1 cam but the intake is .03 higher.(compensating again) It is my belief that this grind will offer only a mild increase starting @ lower rpm and coming all the way up as opposed to a larger increase starting higher up in the RPM range. If my motor was MPFI I think I would match intake and exhaust durations @ 250/250 with .45/.45 lift because the MPFI manifold is much better there is no need to compensate. Edited December 10, 2008 by MY1PATH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bitemedoughboy.com Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 I will post all updates here: http://overlandtrucks.com/phpB....php?t=1527&start=15 any more updates? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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