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caR50 Cams, Regrind


systemf
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#1 TDC

 

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This damn thing never wants to come apart.

 

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Finally I got it off. This took an hour.

 

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Left Valve cover off.

 

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Right hand valve cover off.

 

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I made this tool to get the rear cam bolts off and it worked great.

 

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Rubber bands to hold the lifters in.

 

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Tons of dirt stuck behind the timing belt cover on the cam seal.

 

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Cams have room to come out.

 

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The cams looked to be in good condition. I am going to resurface the lifters and reuse them.

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Last night I resurfaced the lifters. They look just like the picture (in the link below), before you could see wear lines. Now I am waiting on parts to come in...........

 

http://redz31.suomiz.net/pages/headwork.html#lifters

 

Here are some pictures of the lifter resurfacing. This was done with 1000grit and some wD40 on the paper. The picture was taken on the first pass. All lifters got two passes just to make sure the previous wear had been removed.

 

This one is blurry but you get the idea, right is resurface, left is not.

 

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further away

 

 

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Edited by systemf
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Last night I resurfaced the lifters. They look just like the picture (in the link below), before you could see wear lines. Now I am waiting on parts to come in...........

 

http://redz31.suomiz.net/pages/headwork.html#lifters

 

Here are some pictures of the lifter resurfacing. This was done with 1000grit and some wD40 on the paper. The picture was taken on the first pass. All lifters got two passes just to make sure the previous wear had been removed.

 

This one is blurry but you get the idea, right is resurface, left is not.

 

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further away

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what grind are your running?

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keep us posted on how it runs when you get it in there....

 

Better...I have a before Dyno sheet and will get an after dyno run so I can say EXACTLY how much power and were you can expect that power to be. I will also report on the OBDII compatiblity...something no one has done yet to my knowledge.

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Better...I have a before Dyno sheet and will get an after dyno run so I can say EXACTLY how much power and were you can expect that power to be. I will also report on the OBDII compatiblity...something no one has done yet to my knowledge.

where did you get the cams from, i couldnt find that grind on 4x4parts.com or @ motorsport auto

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i know about schneider thats what motorsport auto sells for the z's.... im running the 274/274 480/480 in my 280z... i like that grind, im curious if i would have the same results in the vg30 as i did in the l28...

 

 

Not sure about that grind. It will lope at idle.

 

 

Truck is back together. Drove it 10 miles with the timing off and didn't reset the ECU so no accurate performance data. It does idle pretty tough (almost sounds really low like a small V-8) and has a mild lope. No OBDII codes so far.

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Turns out I had a vacuum line disconnected and the MAP EGR lines crossed. Engine runs much better. Lost a little low end. Anything above 2k is better than before. Above 3k the engine REALLY starts to pull. Dyno results will be much more accurate than my butt. One thing I noticed is that the engine runs a lot smoother except at idle where the lope is much more defined than I thought. It almost sounds like a muscle car, and the vibrations can be slightly felt inside the cab. Anything above 1k is vibration free.

 

 

I WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THIS GRIND FOR AUTOMATICS. A much milder grind would suite them well. This is based off where I cruise on the highway (around 2.6k to 3k) VS my QX4 which would cruise at 2.2k to 2.7k with tires. Schneider does offer milder grinds that would work for the auto. I will have gas mileage numbers in a couple of weeks.

Edited by systemf
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Why wouldn't it be in the How-To section? You wrote up an article on how to do the job complete with pics. Thanks for that, BTW. ;)

 

 

I know, and I used your results as one of the determining factors for doing mine. I did want hard evidence of what the cams give you which is why I ran the dyno tests (still have to run the after dyno test). Also, I'm not sure if there is something different on the left hand steer models in North America, but I couldn't get that swivel rachet to fit on the left hand side cam bolt so I built my own tool. I even purchased the same rachet you showed in the pics.

 

Also when you pulled the harmonic balancer using the jaw pulled there is a risk of destroying the rubber on between the pulley's and the balancer or chiping the brittle metal off around the pulley end. I learned this the hardway because mine always sticks requiring tons of force to get it off. The correct type of puller to is pictured and will not destroy the balancer assuming you have the bolts threaded in. You can just barely see some chips in the outside of my pulley caused from trying to remove it with a jaw type puller. The puller I am using requires two bolts and I think they are M6 .75 pitch about 3 inches long and some large washers.

 

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Oh and they used your post in the HOW-TO because it does apply to most VG motors. The firewall maybe a little different, but almost everything else is similar enough where it counts.

Edited by systemf
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So when is the after dyno coming? I would love to know what the numbers where? Anyone tried the cams from the 4X4pars.com site? They say they are billet cut and not regrinds. $550 for the VG33 in the 2000 path.

Edited by jproy
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So when is the after dyno coming?
x2

the 4x4parts cams are actually JWT s1 & s2 cams. IMO the specs on both of them breathe too well for bottom end but are great for midrange and up.

 

If anyones interested here is A cam card with the specs for the custom grind I will one-day be getting for my vg30i Its basically 252/248 in/ex duration (frist 2 #s) with .45/.42 in/ex lift(2nd to last 2 #s) the other #'s define overlaps & lobe center locations.

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the exhaust duration is stock and the intake duration is longer to compensate for the TBI manifold

the exhaust lift is the same as the JWT/4x4parts S1 cam but the intake is .03 higher.(compensating again)

It is my belief that this grind will offer only a mild increase starting @ lower rpm and coming all the way up as opposed to a larger increase starting higher up in the RPM range.

If my motor was MPFI I think I would match intake and exhaust durations @ 250/250 with .45/.45 lift because the MPFI manifold is much better there is no need to compensate.

Edited by MY1PATH
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  • 1 month later...

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