Crashoveride Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 Hey everyone, I have noticed an issue with my 98 Chilkoot over the past week or so. Now that its getting colder I have noticed that when I start the truck in the morning after stilling all night that once I crank it over and it kicks in that the idle starts at around 1100 rpm for a sec then drops down to like 400 rpm and then very slowly climbs back up to about 900-1000rpm but doesnt' kick into its high idle like it should when its cold for 30-60 sec until it warms up. I am afraid that as it gets colder that it might not start some day. Any one have an idea what it could be or where to start checking? Thanks, Crash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinthead Posted November 19, 2008 Share Posted November 19, 2008 I've got the same problem with mine !! I didn't think it had gotten THAT cold already that I would have an issue such as this, but I am in the midst of trying to diagnose the cause and a fix for it ! If I come up with anything, I will post a fix !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crashoveride Posted November 19, 2008 Author Share Posted November 19, 2008 I've got the same problem with mine !! I didn't think it had gotten THAT cold already that I would have an issue such as this, but I am in the midst of trying to diagnose the cause and a fix for it ! If I come up with anything, I will post a fix !!! Please do let me know if you find a fix for this because its really starting to worry me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crashoveride Posted November 21, 2008 Author Share Posted November 21, 2008 Any suggestions from anyone else? Looking for things to try right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I would be curious to see if you disconnected the Idle Air Control Valve (electrically), if that made a difference. This valve lets extra air in while the engine warms up, and closes as the engine gets to operating temp...they get clogged up and stop working correctly---at least on older Hondas! Un plugging this will set a check engine light, not sure if it will go away after plugged back in or if you will need to reset it. If this item IS the problem, it needs a good cleaning (carbon build-up), and brake clean will work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crashoveride Posted November 21, 2008 Author Share Posted November 21, 2008 I would be curious to see if you disconnected the Idle Air Control Valve (electrically), if that made a difference. This valve lets extra air in while the engine warms up, and closes as the engine gets to operating temp...they get clogged up and stop working correctly---at least on older Hondas! Un plugging this will set a check engine light, not sure if it will go away after plugged back in or if you will need to reset it. If this item IS the problem, it needs a good cleaning (carbon build-up), and brake clean will work just fine. That makes sense. I have older Honda's in my garage as well and I have had to take IAC off them before and clean them with some carb cleaner to stop the engine from revving up and down but I wasn't sure about this issue where its low right from the start when its cold but fine when its warm. Where is the IAC located on the 3.3's, I have never really paid attention or looked for it. I will try that this weekend and see what happens. I am not too concerned about the 'Check Engine' light anyway, its on now because of an EVAP leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laxman0324 Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I would check this too...im not sure of location but I had to do this on my old Accord Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big_johnson Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 I’ve been dealing with this problem for a while now. It has left me temporarily stranded a few times, but the truck does eventually start. A few things I’ve learned: -For me, it only happens in cold weather AND at high altitude. -If the truck does die after the initial start, floor the gas pedal and crank the starter. The engine will start, but it may take a while (>30 seconds). Be careful doing this if you are by yourself, as it can wear down a battery quickly. -If you want to make sure the truck starts the first time, you can floor the gas pedal first and then crank the starter. Let off the gas after it catches. This allows the maximum amount of air into the engine, while the fuel pump is only delivering the “start up” amount of fuel. However, this is fairly hard on the engine in cold weather, as it revs to around 3000 rpm with very cold oil. -The truck ECU ‘learns’ conditions well. I used to have this problem when I would drive up to the mountains from around Denver (approximately a 3000 foot gain). However, I now live in the mountains, and my truck no longer has this issue. It seems like it adapted to the air conditions, and adjusted accordingly. -I’ve heard of a few other tricks, and they all involve tricking the ecu. One is to unplug the MAF sensor to start it, then plug it back in. This is supposed to eliminate the airflow readings going to the computer, so it dumps less fuel in. However, I have tried this once and it made no difference. It will also throw a code that you have to reset. Hope this helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverlion Posted November 21, 2008 Share Posted November 21, 2008 Thanks for the IAC hint. Mine surges during warm up on cold days. Hope it cures mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nissandoms47 Posted November 22, 2008 Share Posted November 22, 2008 Seafoam the intake and see if anything changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psychopathy Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 (edited) Hey everyone, I have noticed an issue with my 98 Chilkoot over the past week or so. Now that its getting colder I have noticed that when I start the truck in the morning after stilling all night that once I crank it over and it kicks in that the idle starts at around 1100 rpm for a sec then drops down to like 400 rpm and then very slowly climbs back up to about 900-1000rpm but doesnt' kick into its high idle like it should when its cold for 30-60 sec until it warms up. I am afraid that as it gets colder that it might not start some day. Any one have an idea what it could be or where to start checking? Thanks, Crash. My 03 kinda does the opposite. No problem on cold start but stalls on a warm start. Have to tap the gas right b4 it drops to around 400rpm so it will idle back up. It also has a sqealing noise when it's cold until it warms up. Any ideas anyone??? Thanks, Psycho Edited November 25, 2008 by psychopathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RunAway Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 I'm an apprentice at a Nissan dealership, had a murano come in today where the rpms would drop way down right after start-up then level off after a second or so. For this the tech beside me recommended an idle air volume re-learn. Basically calibrating the mass air sensor. A bit different symptoms than what you're experiencing but might be helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crashoveride Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 I'm an apprentice at a Nissan dealership, had a murano come in today where the rpms would drop way down right after start-up then level off after a second or so. For this the tech beside me recommended an idle air volume re-learn. Basically calibrating the mass air sensor. A bit different symptoms than what you're experiencing but might be helpful. Is this something that would apply to the late 90's Pathy's as well? If so how would you go about getting it re-learn? I assume you would have to do something like disconnect a sensor or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RunAway Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Yes it applies to pretty much all MAF equipped nissans. Unfortunately the only way I know of doing a re-learn is with the nissan code scanner, which means a trip to the dealership. It doesn't take long however, I'm guessing they might charge 1/2 hr? I suppose I should throw in a disclaimer that I could very well be wrong, but I figured it was better to give you another option vs saying nothing. Diagnosing problems without seeing the car is difficult unless it's a known common problem. I'd start off with cleaning out the IAC though, that's free and only takes a bit of your time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crashoveride Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 Yes it applies to pretty much all MAF equipped nissans. Unfortunately the only way I know of doing a re-learn is with the nissan code scanner, which means a trip to the dealership. It doesn't take long however, I'm guessing they might charge 1/2 hr? I suppose I should throw in a disclaimer that I could very well be wrong, but I figured it was better to give you another option vs saying nothing. Diagnosing problems without seeing the car is difficult unless it's a known common problem. I'd start off with cleaning out the IAC though, that's free and only takes a bit of your time. RunAway, You sound like you know what your talking about and I agree that I should start with the IAC before going to the dealership to have this looked at. I am still not sure where to locate the IAC on the 3.3 engines however. I am sure you would know exactly where its located. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RunAway Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 (edited) I had to look it up and it's actually bolted to the underside of the upper intake manifold. It's right at the back along the firewall, right overtop the drivers side valve cover. So it looks like the only way is to pull off the upper intake manifold to get at it. So unless you have a warm place to work and a weekend to burn, nissandoms47 suggestion of seafoaming the motor is the most convenient way of cleaning it IMO. EDIT: I just tried doing an idle air volume relearn on my '97 and the scanner didn't even have that listed as an procedure that can be performed on it. So much for my idea. Edited November 26, 2008 by RunAway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crashoveride Posted November 26, 2008 Author Share Posted November 26, 2008 I had to look it up and it's actually bolted to the underside of the upper intake manifold. It's right at the back along the firewall, right overtop the drivers side valve cover. So it looks like the only way is to pull off the upper intake manifold to get at it. So unless you have a warm place to work and a weekend to burn, nissandoms47 suggestion of seafoaming the motor is the most convenient way of cleaning it IMO. EDIT: I just tried doing an idle air volume relearn on my '97 and the scanner didn't even have that listed as an procedure that can be performed on it. So much for my idea. Thanks for the help in that, I don't think I will be ripping the intake mani off anytime soon with the temps dropping. Seafoam might be the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psychopathy Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 How do I Seafoam the intake? Do I just put it in the gas tank or does it get more invlolved than that? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RunAway Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 Un-hook a vacuum line and stick it into the bottle with the engine running. The motor will run rough and suck in the fluid through the intake. You might have to modulate the throttle to keep it running. There will be lots of white smoke out the exhaust. For the last little bit of fluid left in the bottle let the engine choke out. Let it sit for 15 minutes and the start up the truck and take it for a spin until the exhaust isn't blowing tons of white smoke anymore. The instructions should be on the bottle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psychopathy Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 Un-hook a vacuum line and stick it into the bottle with the engine running. The motor will run rough and suck in the fluid through the intake. You might have to modulate the throttle to keep it running. There will be lots of white smoke out the exhaust. For the last little bit of fluid left in the bottle let the engine choke out. Let it sit for 15 minutes and the start up the truck and take it for a spin until the exhaust isn't blowing tons of white smoke anymore. The instructions should be on the bottle. Thanks....I've got a bottle sitting on the shelf. I'll give her a try. Don't know if you saw my reply earlier but mine's okay cold but it stalls on startup when it's warm. I have to tap the gas when it slows down to around 400rpm because it won't idle back up. I'm guessing it's along the same line of problem. Again...thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkpath96 Posted December 12, 2008 Share Posted December 12, 2008 Has anyone had any luck with fixing this issue? Did the seafoaming work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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