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TRANSMISION SQUEALING AWAY


PATHFINDER95NI
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How goes it all? Well the Pathy is starting to make that noise and now I must replace the bearing. To all of you that have replaced theirs, how hard is it? Nothings going to scare me off from doing it, I just want to know exactly what Im getting into.

 

One more thing, has anyone yet replaced the 3l/5sp combo with a 4l/6spd combo yet? Im really close to making that happen, time just hasnt been on my side lately.

 

Anyway thanks in advance for the help!

 

Nick

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umm if you are doing just the throwout bearing then you may as well get the flywheel resurfaced or new, replace the clutch and do the rear main seal and possibly the rear cam seals and maybe the seal around the drive shaft...the work...is a lot of work but can be done in a day with a helping hand and the right tools...

 

no clue what you're refering to as far as the 3l/5sp and 4l/6sp

Edited by unccpathfinder
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Ok, I did this in a 95. Your title says 95 and your signature says 96. Please straighten that out.

 

The job is doable for anyone with some knowledge, a good place to work and proper tools.

Tools: TALL jack stands, floor jack, 24" extension minimum + universals, clutch alignment tool and tranny jack.

Place to work: Cement floor, much preferably in doors and heated

 

Need to: Pull shifters, wire connectors, torsion bars, starter, slave cylinder, cross member, tranny mount, and remove the tranny (condensed version).

 

Replace: clutch, pressure place, TO bearing, retaining spring.

 

Inspect: Tranny input shaft/bearing/seal for integrity, fly wheel for the same/surfacing, rear main seal for leaks.

 

Reassemble: All.

 

Thats the cliff notes version. Nothing wierd about it, just a lot of work and a few pain-in-the-arses. You have the FSM, right? If not, download it from this site. Hint:It's cleverly hidden in the open... ;)

 

B

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I did a auto to manual swap on a '90 2door. I didn't have to take the torsion bars off. Count on breaking a bolt off of the exhaust y-pipe into the passenger side manifold. I broke 2 of them even with heat and days and days with repeated PB blaster applications. They can be drilled out though. Ohh, and if you don't seperate the transmission and transfer case, you're going to need an extra set of hands.

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umm if you are doing just the throwout bearing then you may as well get the flywheel resurfaced or new, replace the clutch and do the rear main seal and possibly the rear cam seals and maybe the seal around the drive shaft...the work...is a lot of work but can be done in a day with a helping hand and the right tools...

 

no clue what you're refering to as far as the 3l/5sp and 4l/6sp

 

Yeah Ive talked with a few friends and they have said the same thing, "While you're down there you might as well fix xxxxxx". But I am looking to replace both the engine and tranny with a Xterra engine/tranny swap so for now its just going to be the TOB thats going to be replaced.

What I meant is has someone swapped out the stock Pathy engine with an Xterra combo yet.

 

Ok, I did this in a 95. Your title says 95 and your signature says 96. Please straighten that out.

 

The job is doable for anyone with some knowledge, a good place to work and proper tools.

Tools: TALL jack stands, floor jack, 24" extension minimum + universals, clutch alignment tool and tranny jack.

Place to work: Cement floor, much preferably in doors and heated

 

Need to: Pull shifters, wire connectors, torsion bars, starter, slave cylinder, cross member, tranny mount, and remove the tranny (condensed version).

 

Replace: clutch, pressure place, TO bearing, retaining spring.

 

Inspect: Tranny input shaft/bearing/seal for integrity, fly wheel for the same/surfacing, rear main seal for leaks.

 

Reassemble: All.

 

Thats the cliff notes version. Nothing wierd about it, just a lot of work and a few pain-in-the-arses. You have the FSM, right? If not, download it from this site. Hint:It's cleverly hidden in the open... ;)

 

B

 

Thanks, fixed that. No I dont have the FSM, I just have a Haynes manual. Thanks for the hint, Ill take a look around.

 

 

replace pilot bushing...we both forgot that...

 

Check, thanks!

 

 

I did a auto to manual swap on a '90 2door. I didn't have to take the torsion bars off. Count on breaking a bolt off of the exhaust y-pipe into the passenger side manifold. I broke 2 of them even with heat and days and days with repeated PB blaster applications. They can be drilled out though. Ohh, and if you don't seperate the transmission and transfer case, you're going to need an extra set of hands.

 

Yeah Im not too worried about the bolts, four years ago I swapped in some Thorleys and used some ARP stainless bolts with anti-sieze compound on there.

 

Thanks to all for the replies, when I do attempt this Ill let you all know how it goes.

 

Best Regards,

 

Nick

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Count on breaking a bolt off of the exhaust y-pipe into the passenger side manifold.

 

PB blast them a couple of hours B4 getting to them and do it several times then use an impact wrench to take them off...I would almost be willing to put $ on it they wont break

 

Pathy engine with an Xterra combo yet.

 

theres one in the garage secition I think but i have gone from TBI to MPFI and if I could find a donor truck for an X or Fronty I would do that esp if it was with a SC

 

A lot of people have put in the 3.3L but I think they kept their intakes the same you may want to search around a little bit.

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PB blast them a couple of hours B4 getting to them and do it several times then use an impact wrench to take them off...I would almost be willing to put $ on it they wont break

theres one in the garage secition I think but i have gone from TBI to MPFI and if I could find a donor truck for an X or Fronty I would do that esp if it was with a SC

 

A lot of people have put in the 3.3L but I think they kept their intakes the same you may want to search around a little bit.

 

Yeah I think the 3.3 would be a waste of time. Nissan made a HUGE improvement when

they shifted to the 4L. Ill check the garage section, see what I can find.

 

Nick

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and I guess as a side note...I had TO bearing that growled at me for about 6 months before I finally had to replace the clutch. Mine wasnt a constant whine but in the mornings it would go for probably 5-10 mins and sometimes while the clutch was engaged...if you're planning do do your swap in the near future depending on how bad the bearing is and how frequently you drive it...I would evaluate holding off on it until the swap was done but thats just me...

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