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1999 Chevy Cavalier Anti-Theft Reset


Kittamaru
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So my fiance's Cavalier's battery died... no big deal, replaced the battery...

 

But it set off the anti-theft system (WTF?)

 

So now I need to reset it... but I don't really know how and we don't have a manual... and there isn't a haynes manual at any shop near here.

 

I'm trying something I found on google, but after an hour no luck...

 

fskc

 

anyone? Please? She NEEDS this at 6 am tomorrow. No time to get it to a shop... or call a stealership!

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So my fiance's Cavalier's battery died... no big deal, replaced the battery...

 

But it set off the anti-theft system (WTF?)

 

So now I need to reset it... but I don't really know how and we don't have a manual... and there isn't a haynes manual at any shop near here.

 

I'm trying something I found on google, but after an hour no luck...

 

fskc

 

anyone? Please? She NEEDS this at 6 am tomorrow. No time to get it to a shop... or call a stealership!

 

try putting the key inn the driver's door and unlocking it, this is how you re-set a grand cherokee's alarm. It's worth a shot.

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Turn the key to the run position, don't crank it. Security light shoud flash. Let it sit that way for 10 minutes, turn it off and try to start it. Soemtimes it takes more than one try.

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Got an "update" if you'd call it that...

 

I had the car towed into the shop to have them look the Anti-Theft system over... that was at 9 this morning...

 

Round 3 this afternoon they called me...

 

They were digging around in the wiring harness looking for corrosion between the connection from the fuel pump harness and the main wiring harnes...

 

 

Reason being?

 

the OBD2 system showed no anti-theft codes and there was no consistant voltage going to the fuel pump.

 

NO @!*%. The Fuel Pump Relay won't complete the circuit with the anti theft sytem engaged... it says that in the damned owners manual (which we managed to find online).

 

They want over a thousand dollars PLUS 6 hours worth of labor...

 

I told them to put the car back together and leave it alone.

 

I also told them that I was a might bit upset as to why they didn't even TRY to reset the anti-theft system as that is what the problem is, as is evidenced by the fact that the telltale light is on...

 

*sighs* I hate stupid people... and I hate them even MORE when they cost money...

 

I might wind up not paying them anything beyond the diagnostic fee and tell them if they want it tough @!*% because they when ripping around into other parts of the vehicle without permission when I explicately told them to call me before doing ANYTHING else.

 

[/rant]

 

Anyone want a non-functional 1999 Chevy Cavalier Z24 w/ 2.4L DOHC engine? Would make a grand parts vehicle... *grumps*

 

Edit-

 

Wow... they just called me again...

 

The mechanic said, and I quote:

 

"I can't reset the anti-theft system because it is not possible to do so until I can start the car."

 

Does ANYONE else see the problem with that...?

Edited by Kittamaru
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There is only one way I know of to do this... and it involves a JLBX Anti Theft Bypass module as dictated here

 

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Auto-Theft-Prev...r-Racecar-2.htm

 

I've seen multiple sites mention this... but yeah, it only works if you can CURRENTLY starte the vehicle...

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Does the 1999 have a chipped key? Ive read that after you change your battery the computer may forget the code in the key. Though, having the key on for 10 minutes usually fixes that, have you called the stealership?

 

If its not that, is there a section in your manual with a series of steps? like put key in for a certain time, then turn it on and off a certain amount of times and etc?

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Just found this on Alldata.....

 

If you replace any of the above components, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes . The instrument cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch before the indicator stops flashing, repeat the long tamper cycle from the beginning.

 

Im looking for more....

 

Heres more.....

 

DO NOT REPLACE ANY COMPONENTS.

 

Re-synchronization must be performed if the following conditions exist:

 

The batteries of the keyless entry transmitter have been replaced. A keyless entry transmitter is malfunctioning.

 

If all of the transmitter buttons fail to function check the battery and transmitter using tester J 43241. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 83-90-12.

 

If the transmitter passes the test program the RKE system following the procedures in the Keyless Entry sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.

 

Remember when programming the system, all transmitters for the vehicle must be present for the programming to be successful.

 

On many 2006 vehicle lines RKE transmitter commands can be viewed using a scan tool (under RCDLR Data Displays).

 

If the transmitter fails the test with the tester J 43241 replace the batteries and retest the transmitter using the tester J 43241. If the transmitter still fails the test replace the transmitter.

Edited by 5523Pathfinder
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Just found this on Alldata.....

 

If you replace any of the above components, the system will enter the long tamper mode. If the system enters the long tamper mode, ensure that the system completes a long tamper mode cycle. During the long tamper mode cycle, the THEFT indicator will flash for the full 10 minutes . The instrument cluster and the PCM require the full 10 minutes in order to complete the learn cycle. Ensure that the ignition switch remains in RUN until the indicator stops flashing. If you turn the ignition switch before the indicator stops flashing, repeat the long tamper cycle from the beginning.

 

Problem is, the theft light doesn't blink at all - it's just on solid. I tried the long tamper cycles (both the 10 minute and 3x 10 minute cycles) and NEITHER had any effect, the light doesn't go out at all.

 

Im looking for more....

 

Heres more.....

 

DO NOT REPLACE ANY COMPONENTS.

 

Re-synchronization must be performed if the following conditions exist:

 

The batteries of the keyless entry transmitter have been replaced. A keyless entry transmitter is malfunctioning.

 

If all of the transmitter buttons fail to function check the battery and transmitter using tester J 43241. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 83-90-12.

 

If the transmitter passes the test program the RKE system following the procedures in the Keyless Entry sub-section of Body & Accessories in the Service Manual.

 

Remember when programming the system, all transmitters for the vehicle must be present for the programming to be successful.

 

On many 2006 vehicle lines RKE transmitter commands can be viewed using a scan tool (under RCDLR Data Displays).

 

If the transmitter fails the test with the tester J 43241 replace the batteries and retest the transmitter using the tester J 43241. If the transmitter still fails the test replace the transmitter.

 

She doesn't have keyless entry, nor a "chipped" key

 

 

my reply is in bold

 

 

At this point, I'm looking at trading it in. The car has been nothing but trouble so yeah...

 

I got a decent deal from a Subaru dealership today... 2001 Subary Legacy w/ only 41k miles. Bought from that shop back in 01, used by a little old lady for "Meals on Wheels", and then traded in for a newer model of the same car. It is IMACULATE! Beautiful car, All Wheel Drive, 2.5L Boxer engine w/ Cold Air Intake, ABS, Traction Control, Power windows/locks/seats/moonroof, and the test drive was grand.

 

Currently at 11k with the trade in of the Cavalier (which includes the 2k she still owes on the Cavalier)

 

Yeah... that's a steal. Going to try to work out a viable payment plan.

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Hope you can get it to work out, but that's a fancy trade up.

 

which includes the 2k she still owes on the Cavalier

Dear Gods!! She owed $ on a 99 Cavalier?? :blink:

 

That might be TOO fancy a trade up!!

 

B

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Well, the problem is where she works atm sucks balls... 6 years as an office manager at Karns and she makes about .25 above minimum wage... we're hoping to get her out of there ASAP.

 

That and she only owned the cavalier... maybe 3 years? She's had absolutely rotten luck with vehicles... which is why I'm guiding her on this purchase :)

 

I, on the other hand, pull in roughly 2.5x that amount with my position at the state, and all my bills are paid for the next 6 months so I SHOULD (keyword here) be able to save up and drop a nice load of cash on that car to get our "debt" down.

 

Her cavalier just isn't worth the work though *sighs* Nice car when it works... bitch when it doesn't. My grandfather (who used to be a mechanic and is a mechanical engineer) looked it over and thought it was good, so I'm going to see what our interest rate comes back as from their financing, then see if my bank can do better :)

 

Consider, though, we are both still in college *shrugs*

Edited by Kittamaru
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My moms boyfriend has a 98 cavalier and he just rolled over 340,000kms with no problems. But it's a base model 5 speed. Still a piece of junk quality wise though lol :P

Contradiction much? :shrug:

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Sorry, I wasn't clear. It is a reliable car, nothing has really broken on it, mechanically. But the interior quality is horrible, the glove box latch is broken, the window knobs keep falling off, and a bunch of other random stuff lol. But he is looking at a 95 se pathy right now with 110,000kms on the clock for 2000... Looks mint.

 

Good luck kittamaru. Subaru's are awesome.

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*nods* My father had a Forrester for a while... was a lovely wannabe-SUV.

 

I don't really fully trust AWD systems though... but from what I understand Subaru has the best of the best, so eh, I guess I don't have to worry that much.

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