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im goin to put a 4 inch body lift on my 95 pathy...

 

 

i keep hearing people say stuff about changing my wheels and a few lines.... i have stock lego wheels

wat will need to be changed...

 

 

is the lift something i can do myself or should i pay $500 to get it done?

 

 

any help would be nice

Edited by 95pathyoffroad
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The wheels don't need to be changed, who ever told you that has a screw loose!!! Yes, there are several lines to be changed/moved. Brake lines, gas filler lines, coolant lines perhaps if you don't relocate the radiator, etc.

 

I HIGHLY recommend you take some time to use the search function to read up on body lifts. Many people have done them and there are plenty of threads about it. If you have trouble finding the information, we will help you.

 

What condition is your truck in? Any real rust? How handy are you mechanically? Do you have a good selection of tools and a good place to work on the project? Will you need to drive the truck within a day or two or can it be done over a week? These are the questions that determine if $500 for the install should be paid.

 

B

 

P.S. Where the heck is Loisiana?

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and where are you getting a 4" BL? 3" is the biggest as far as i know (and as big as I'd want to go)

 

They make 4", but I've never seen them marketed in the States. I've seen them listed on Japanese aftermarket sites and listed as a mod on some Icelandic trucks (also seen 6" BLs too).

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The wheels don't need to be changed, who ever told you that has a screw loose!!! Yes, there are several lines to be changed/moved. Brake lines, gas filler lines, coolant lines perhaps if you don't relocate the radiator, etc.

 

I HIGHLY recommend you take some time to use the search function to read up on body lifts. Many people have done them and there are plenty of threads about it. If you have trouble finding the information, we will help you.

 

What condition is your truck in? Any real rust? How handy are you mechanically? Do you have a good selection of tools and a good place to work on the project? Will you need to drive the truck within a day or two or can it be done over a week? These are the questions that determine if $500 for the install should be paid.

 

B

 

P.S. Where the heck is Loisiana?

 

 

 

 

well my pathy is my primary vehicle... im 17 and its all ive got... its in perfect condition... NO RUST some people say its amazing that i dont have rust problems down here in louisiana (which is as pretty much as far south as you can go. im literaly 15 minutes from the gulf) anyway im pretty handy mechanically im a small engine machanic at our local lawnmower shop.... we have all the nessicary tools for the job... and unless i sleep at work it needs to be done in a day or so...

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4x4parts.com = 3" lift AFIK

Plan on at least a weekend just to be on the safe side, then hope for a day

Soak all mounts and such with PB Blaster far in advance

Grab a friend/breaker bar/pipe/torch for any surprises

 

That's about it. Double the time you *think* it will take at least, then take your time and pay attention. At best, it will go super-smooth and you'll knock it out quick with time to kill. Its pretty straight forward if you take your time and read, but it could be a PITA if you rush through. I did mine by myself in the parking stall of my old townhouse (no garage) with basic hand tools, but I also ran into some issues I had to deal with. It depends on you, the truck, and what you have to work with.

 

Good luck!

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Mr P covered the answer well. With prep, tools, a place to work and some help (luck) it won't be a big deal. If it HAS TO be running in 2 days, do a lot of homework and set up another ride incase something happens (or doesn't). I'm doing the play it save angel bit...

 

B

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The wheels don't need to be changed, who ever told you that has a screw loose!!! Yes, there are several lines to be changed/moved. Brake lines, gas filler lines, coolant lines perhaps if you don't relocate the radiator, etc.

 

I HIGHLY recommend you take some time to use the search function to read up on body lifts. Many people have done them and there are plenty of threads about it. If you have trouble finding the information, we will help you.

 

What condition is your truck in? Any real rust? How handy are you mechanically? Do you have a good selection of tools and a good place to work on the project? Will you need to drive the truck within a day or two or can it be done over a week? These are the questions that determine if $500 for the install should be paid.

 

B

 

P.S. Where the heck is Loisiana?

 

 

 

 

the site that im getting the lift from sells a radiator relocate kit is it needed??

how much extra am i gonna have to spend on the extra lines, extensions etc.?

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4x4parts.com = 3" lift AFIK

Plan on at least a weekend just to be on the safe side, then hope for a day

Soak all mounts and such with PB Blaster far in advance

Grab a friend/breaker bar/pipe/torch for any surprises

 

That's about it. Double the time you *think* it will take at least, then take your time and pay attention. At best, it will go super-smooth and you'll knock it out quick with time to kill. Its pretty straight forward if you take your time and read, but it could be a PITA if you rush through. I did mine by myself in the parking stall of my old townhouse (no garage) with basic hand tools, but I also ran into some issues I had to deal with. It depends on you, the truck, and what you have to work with.

 

Good luck!

 

 

 

wat kind of issues did you run into

 

i ask alot of questions i know but better to be on the safe side

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When I did my 2" body lift, I only had to extend the power steering hose.

The fuel hoses at the filler cap were loosened as were all metal pipes attached to the engine bay.

I didn't relocate the radiator but I did have to shorten the bottom radiator hose two inches.

All my body bolts came out easily enough, but re inserting the two rear ones proved a little tricky, I loosened the flange bolts that hold the rear section so I could get the bolt to go into the threaded area. I did a post on here a while back on my install, http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Forums/vie...f=18&t=9717, there are photos showing the rear area in question.

One last thing I did do was to completely throw away those plastic bungs that are covering the bolts inside the floor area (I busted mine getting them out anyway), under the carpet. Duct tape was placed over them to prevent water coming up through the floor, cause it will come in there when river crossing etc.

Edited by kiwipete
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They make 4", I've seen them listed on Japanese aftermarket sites and listed as a mod on some Icelandic trucks (also seen 6" BLs too).

What is the URL for the Jap sites please?

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I am in the final stretch of my 3' body lift. All the pucks and bolts are in and tight. I too had a little trouble with the rear two body mounts and the bolts lining up. I also loosen up the mount and moved it around with little effort all was in. I later noticed the biggest reason that my right rear failed to line up. The front half of the mount and the frame was no longer together as rust won that battle and the frame lost. During the removal of the bolt just in front of the right rear wheel well, I actually was able to break it twice trying to get it apart. Good little trick. I have twisted off a lot of bolts in my time but not same bolt twice. Other than the few little issues it has gone well. I guess to have about 7-8 hours in it so far. I now have far more room to deal with the frame rust that is running rampant on the right side. This baby has not been taken care of at all. The additional room will help with the oil filter relocation that will have plenty of room now to fit in not to mention all the room to put the new starter in. That is where this all started, it failed to start and inherited the Pathy problems and all. It's not my DD so I'm not in too much of a rush. I do want to get it out and play but with what all I have come across I'm going to make it a little more trustworthy. I have already decided to make my own tube bumpers and sliders. I can build them far cheaper that buying them not to mention the satisfaction after they are done and on.

 

Well, I'm outta here and back out to my Pathy as my son will be here in a short. It has been a great experience for the both of us. He talks of getting a Heep some time. I will try to get some pics up later but as of right now it is still up on stands. Not that I don't have pics of that either.....LOL.

 

Later ....

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This job can run the full spectrum, from a slam dunk to a pain in the rear, depending on you and the rig. I did mine alone with tools and a floor jack and some 2x4 scraps, outside over a few days. I ran into a rusty and totally frozen rear driver's side mount that was a beast and required PB Blaster/heat/leverage/BFH/etc. The main actual body lift portion probably took me 8+ hours, if there were no issues. But there were... I extended the fuel filler hose and such, relocated the power steering tank lower down the fender rather than extend the lines, cut down the lower radiator hose, etc. Then that time again was spent once I factor in that @#$%^&* mount, other bs, along with the stupid front bumper relocation brackets that came with the lift and are garbage. Its do-able, and easier with extra hands, just don't totally count on a quick job.

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So far it hasn't been all that terrible. I am totally replacing all the the hoses due to age. Most are too hard to trust for me. It still has the what looks to be the original lower radiator hose. I guess I'll have to go to Nissan for the larger power steering hose. The only thing I have found so far, size wise, is a heater core hose. Not too sure it would hold up over time.

The new bumper brackets I haven't figured out just yet. I was going to use the old bumper until I get my new one built. I have to agree with most that this kit has room for improvement. ;)

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