towing advice

[lunchindabox]

Hey guys...

 

My bro got rear ended in my wife's r50 and we took the money since the damage was not bad and I can do the work myself. I took the money and invested in a tow dolly.

 

Got the hitch installed today. I need to get the wiring done and saw a few kits on ebay. anyone have advice for me? When I was putting the hitch on I saw a plug on the pass side along the frame rail...is that the one the hitch wiring goes to?

Also thinking about a trans cooler...product reviews anyone?

 

Also, I just bought a VW Passat in NJ that I need to get home...the r50 should be able to handle it right? Mostly highway and not many hills or stop and go.

 

Also, I never towed before...Any general advice?

[BowTied]

My 02 needed a module for the trailer lights - this is due to the signal and brakes not being the same circuit like the trailer would be.

 

Towing:

When towing, do not use OD. A trans cooler is a good idea.

 

Is this a 2 wheel dolly? I have used one of those that strapped the towed vehicle tires down. Double check those straps before leaving and check those straps 3 times again in the first several miles after going around some turns as thing settle in.

 

Give yourself a lot of extra braking room. Don't speed.

 

Double check the trailer lights, all of them. Make sure you have your trailer ownership with you. Double check your trailer chains and hitch. Make sure the hitch ball is the correct size for the trailer hitch. Cross the safety chains when you connect them. Lube the hitch ball. Check trailer tire pressure and condition. At every stop for gas etc. do a full walk around and double check all chains, straps, and the hitch.

 

Got a spare trailer tire? You'll need the correct tire iron/jack too.

 

Turn the radio down, your ears will alert you to something going wrong.... of course, always keep an eye on your mirrors. If something does seem wrong, don't brake violently if possible, pull over as soon as it is safe to do so and check things out. 5 extra minutes could save a lot of greif.

 

Practice backing up - if inexperienced, make sure to have a compentent spotter.

 

That's from the top of my head, maybe others will add in something too.....

Edited May 28, 2008 by BowTied

[Simon]

All good advice, Bowtied....though, I have one question......

 

Why cross the safety chains? I've never heard of that before.

[MikeV]

I've always crossed mine:

Takes a bit of slack out and the crossed would also keep the trailer a bit more controlled in case the ball and tongue somehow disconnected (just my basic understanding; never had a chance to see if it worked and hope I never will)

[Simon]

Good stuff.....I'll have to pass that info on to my dad, as he trailers his boat every now and then, and I don't believe he crosses the chains.

[Slick]

My 02 needed a module for the trailer lights - this is due to the signal and brakes not being the same circuit like the trailer would be.

 

Towing:

When towing, do not use OD. A trans cooler is a good idea.

 

Is this a 2 wheel dolly? I have used one of those that strapped the towed vehicle tires down. Double check those straps before leaving and check those straps 3 times again in the first several miles after going around some turns as thing settle in.

 

Give yourself a lot of extra braking room. Don't speed.

 

Double check the trailer lights, all of them. Make sure you have your trailer ownership with you. Double check your trailer chains and hitch. Make sure the hitch ball is the correct size for the trailer hitch. Cross the safety chains when you connect them. Lube the hitch ball. Check trailer tire pressure and condition. At every stop for gas etc. do a full walk around and double check all chains, straps, and the hitch.

 

Got a spare trailer tire? You'll need the correct tire iron/jack too.

 

Turn the radio down, your ears will alert you to something going wrong.... of course, always keep an eye on your mirrors. If something does seem wrong, don't brake violently if possible, pull over as soon as it is safe to do so and check things out. 5 extra minutes could save a lot of greif.

 

Practice backing up - if inexperienced, make sure to have a compentent spotter.

 

 

 

The R-50 will handle the VW as long as your hitch is 5k load rated

 

That's from the top of my head, maybe others will add in something too.....

i'm a manager at u haul. do you want a JOB?

 

I've always crossed mine:

Takes a bit of slack out and the crossed would also keep the trailer a bit more controlled in case the ball and tongue somehow disconnected (just my basic understanding; never had a chance to see if it worked and hope I never will)

yup, we cross all our chains, it is to help in the control of the trailer in case of disconnection. I've seen it happen, and seen crossed chains work. it helps prevent the whiplash that would occur if the trailer had straight hooked chains

Edited May 28, 2008 by Slick

[bmoops]

Another trick I learned lately is to twist the chains so they don't hang low and drag on the ground. Crossing the chains is a must in case you detach.

[91PathSE]

The chains are also crossed to catch the tongue from hitting the ground in case a jump....I wouldn't twist them..lose of strength.

For a Pathfinder, Xterra, or any mid size Suv...Trailer brakes ...either electric or surge...on a tandem or anything over 4000 lbs.

[BowTied]

Thanks for the comments Slick

Crossing the chains is primarily to catch the hitch if it becomes disconnected - reduction of swaying in that event is also a benefit.

 

I have never twisted my chains, I guess I have been lucky that I didn't need to... I am sure any official recommendation would be against this - while I don't think it would actually weaken anything, in the event the hitch came apart the chain could untwist allowing the hitch to drop farther which is undesirable. If they are too long, I recommend getting them sized correctly.

 

 

Things I forgot

- if buying a used trailer or building your own, ensure the safety chains (must have 2, at least in my juristiction) are properly sized/rated for the load being towed. Check with your local office of the MTO, DMV or whatever organization polices this for the correct sizing for your load - regulations change, don't trust the 15 year old trailer you just bought is up to code.

 

Chains should have a device that prevents them from coming accidentally unhooked. I have seen many trailers where the safety chains are connected with S hooks - not the ideal situation anymore. A rated clasp or closeable chain link would be better. I believe 5th wheel hitches do not require safety chains, but check with your local authority.

 

Electrical harnesses - I have towed enough other people's home built trailers to know that not everyone understands the conventions for wiring different connectors. When I install a harness on my tow vechile, I use weather proof quick connects (with di-electric grease) on each wire in the harness a few inches from the trailer harness connection point. This saves your butt if you connect to someone else's trailer and your left turn signal lights up the right signal on the trailer, just swap those quick connects until everything works properly!

 

Older trailer? grease those wheel bearings and check their condition! Bearing buddies (dust caps with a built in grease nipple) are worth the investment I think.

 

Ensure the load is evenly distributed on your trailer and it is not overloaded - uneven load distribution/overloading can cause swaying and undue wear on wheel bearings. The weight bias should be slight on the trailer hitch (not exceeding the rated tongue wieght capacity) a negative weight bias on the hitch is bad, could aid in the hitch disconnecting.

 

My hitches have a latch for a lock so the trailer cannot be removed from the hitch. At least put a bolt and nut through this, it helps ensure the hitch doesn't pop off - a lock might keep your trailer on your truck while at a rest stop too.

 

Loose items must be tarped/strapped down, this is law in many juristicitons. You cannot have people in a trailer. You can tow only one trailer at a time unless you are using a commercial vehicle, and I am sure there are special rules around that.

 

There are more things to learn when towing a car on a flatbed trailer, such as vehicle orientation, loading steps, and cross chaining but I am not as familiar with that.

 

Good luck!

Edited May 28, 2008 by BowTied

[lunchindabox]

Thanks guys, this info is awesome!

 

I got another Q though...On my R50, there is a 3 wire wire clip on the frame rail on Pass side...that is not the wiring harness for my dolly is it?

 

Also, I bought two wiring adapters hoping they would work...not sure which one will...can't find the correct harness on the vehicle to attach to.

I bought one for 2000-04 Xterra and another for 1998-04 Frontier...hoping one of these will fit as they didn't have a pathy specific one.

 

So where is the clip on the vehicle located?

 

Thanks

[pathy95]

i drive for CAA/AAA and were told to cross the chains for the control if a car jumps ship also dont let the chains drag when truck-trailer are straght chains should be half an inch off the ground when turning sharp it will touch

 

when towing pick up the drive wheels iirc the pissot is front wheel drive so pick the front up

 

when backing up put your hand on the bottom of the wheel and turn it the way you what the trailer to go

Edited May 28, 2008 by pathy95

[lunchindabox]

i drive for CAA/AAA and were told to cross the chains for the control if a car jumps ship also dont let the chains drag when truck-trailer are straght chains should be half an inch off the ground when turning sharp it will touch

 

when towing pick up the drive wheels iirc the pissot is front wheel drive so pick the front up

 

when backing up put your hand on the bottom of the wheel and turn it the way you what the trailer to go

 

So the chains should not be tight...loose is good, but crossed. Got it.

Passat is front wheel, will be lifting front.

Yeah, I was moving the dolly empty and found backing up is pretty tricky! I will try to employ this little trick, bottom of the steering wheel.

 

 

Also, checked the clip on the frame rail of the R50, only three wires. That can't be it, but it would have been hella conveniennt if it was. Anyone know what the hell it is though? It is right there and nothing close by for it to go to...

 

Then I pulled the plastic from the cargo area. Driver side has a bunch of stuff including Bose amp. and the wiring from tail lights has no clip. Feeds into a big bunch of wires. Then I pulled the passenger side and found a clip, looks like I if I get the right adapter, i can tap right in without splicing. Turns out the Xterra and Frontier clips won't work on it and pep boys didn't have the Pathy one. Neither did AdvanceAuto or the local parts store. Might try Uhaul tomorrow.

[nunya]

when you strap the car to your dolly, USE BOTH STRAPS! make sure they are properly around the tires and tight. if the excess of the strap afetr tightenign drags on the ground or just plain bothers you tie it to a tight part of tha strap. good idea would be to get a short chocker chain or 2 and chain the lower control arms of the car being dollied to the dolly. a little extra protection incase the straps fail(i drive wrecker and feel you never have too many saftys). like stated multipule times already make sure your safty chains from dolly to truck are correct for what you are hauling and secured good, not dog chains with s-hooks, or my favoite i see sometimes-rope(doesn't hurt to have a 3rd safty here as well if goeing a decent distance). and make sure they are crossed(benifits of this have already been covered). triple check all lights,tire press, hook ups,etc. and don't be afraid to check multipule times during a trip.

[alexrex20]

you should be able to get a trailer wiring harness for your pathfinder from wal-mart, target, or uhaul for <$20. it's actually really simple. you just splice into your existing tail lamp wiring. the most time consuming part of the installation is removing the bumper trim to hide the wires, and to route the wires between the steel bumper and plastic bumper to skin, for the cleaner install. overall it should only take about half an hour, and that's being generous.

 

your pathfinder should have 5 wires going into the signal converter, which then outputs to a flat 4-way connector. the converter will convert the separate inputs for brake and turn signal, into a single output for the trailer because it uses the same bulb for brake and turn signal, while the pathfinder has a dedicated bulb for each circuit. any generic 4-way flat connector designed for vehicles with separate brake and turn signal lamps should work on your pathfinder.

[Slick]

just a tip from an ex-semi driver (me)....... NEVER, EVER, look behind you (out the back window) and don't use your rear view mirror to back up.... use your side mirrors and that's IT.....

just remember...... whatever way you turn the wheel, your trailer will go the opposite direction.

turn the wheel left, trailer will go right.

turn the wheel right, trailer will go left.

 

BEWARE OF JACK KNIFING..... it can do quite a bit of damage to your rig.

[lunchindabox]

Bringing this topic back....

 

First off, thanks for all the advice. I read everything a few times and things make sense. I still suck at reversing but I got all the safety stuff down.

I finally got my T-harness delivered from Ebay and it was a snap to install. Got my hitch installed...no bumper cover due to small accident...but working on repalcement now...Next is a trans cooler...any recommendations on one?

 

The first car I towed was my 1999 VW Passat from WV to N. Va (80 miles)....through the mountains. I went with "O/D off" as many people mentioned...burned through gas like crazy and didn't like the way it felt.

 

The next tow was when I towed my 2003 VW Passat from Richmond to N. Va (80 Miles)....just straight higway driving with some small gradual inclines...nothing serious and drove it as normal...didn't do the "o/d off" thing and it felt much better. I like pulling with regular O/D. I just learned to gain some extra speed before hand.

 

The next tow was my 98 VW Passat 180 miles from Va Beach to N. Va....same as above...R50 did very well. I did not turn O/D off.

 

The final tow was my 2000 VW Passat (pictured in sig) about 8 miles in rough up and down hill nighborhoods and I turned the O/D off this time.

 

My question is, at highway speeds with no serious inclines....which way should I go with the O/D thing?

 

Thanks for all the advise to far. Maybe this (or part of this thread) should be a sticky?

[Kittamaru]

I believe the extra load can cause damage to the O/D gear... could be wrong though.

 

Without O/D, you have more power readily available... without the need for the shift.

 

Personally, I'd just keep the A/T in POWER mode (not Standard... the little switch on the right side bottom of the dash) and keep the O/D on... your revs will stay higher longer to give you more umph.

[Precise1]

My question is, at highway speeds with no serious inclines....which way should I go with the O/D thing?

 

I'd guess that you are fine on the flats, open road, constant speed and light gas pedal foot in OD indefinitely. Thats the way I'd treat my car unless I felt something troubling, but I doubt it. The trailer isn't that much more of a load once it is rolling and wind resistance is low due to the tow vehicle taking the brunt. A noticeable rise may want a downshift nearing the top, but that more throttle/speed related. I wouldn't worry at all... You do have an aftermarket tranny cooler? If not, it is HIGHLY recommended to install one, towing or not...

 

B

 

We'll wait on the sticky thing to see if you blow your tranny or not... JUST KIDDING!!! Thanks for chiming back in!! Give us some more feed back and it will be permanently recorded.