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Engine Misfire


Tbsbiker2
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Well, I just joined today and am already posting a question for help..I think I've read every post on several possible issues but here is what I have...

 

I had replaced an 02 sensor several weeks ago...about a week later I started the car which began to shudder, I gassed it a bit...it ran OK then I shut it off and restarted been OK since...BUT I feel like the car is lower in power and I have a slight hesitation when I am crusing and hit the gas, almost a stumble. Then while sitting in traffic I start to experiment and discover that ONLY between 1500 and 1800 RPM the engine cuts off for about a millisecond on and off cycling. I have not had any codes present....the Auto Zone guy checks and sees that the scanner is showing engine misfires...but again no specific code...

 

Is this a coil going, bad plug, bad wire???? My local Mechanic says to wait till i get a code to isolate the issue...I would think the misfire alone repeating would toss a code?

 

Thanks for any thoughts on this!

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I agree with MZ. Sounds like you need to start with the basics of a tune up since your not getting any codes.

Welcome to the board!! There are alot of knowledgable people here and alot of just good folks. Keep us updated on what goes on. Got any pics of your rig?

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I believe the VQ series had an issue with bad coils......it could very well be one of them causing your issue.

 

I believe there was a thread on this quite a while ago....search around. You may have to expand the search options to allow for older posts.

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Well, I just joined today and am already posting a question for help..I think I've read every post on several possible issues but here is what I have...

 

I had replaced an 02 sensor several weeks ago...about a week later I started the car which began to shudder, I gassed it a bit...it ran OK then I shut it off and restarted been OK since...BUT I feel like the car is lower in power and I have a slight hesitation when I am crusing and hit the gas, almost a stumble. Then while sitting in traffic I start to experiment and discover that ONLY between 1500 and 1800 RPM the engine cuts off for about a millisecond on and off cycling. I have not had any codes present....the Auto Zone guy checks and sees that the scanner is showing engine misfires...but again no specific code...

 

Is this a coil going, bad plug, bad wire???? My local Mechanic says to wait till i get a code to isolate the issue...I would think the misfire alone repeating would toss a code?

 

Thanks for any thoughts on this!

 

 

 

First thing you want to do is a power balance test. If you have a manual it will describe the test.

 

Basically you start up the truck and pull the plug wires one at a time. when you unplug a wire the engine tone should change, when you unplug one and it has no effect on the engine tone then you found which cylinder is not firing. then you have to rule out electrical, fuel, or compression problem. Problem could be a variety of things from bad fuel injector to stuck valve to a hole in the piston.

 

Mark

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THANKS everyone, nice to see such an active and friendly group. Great Idea I need to take pics...nothing out of the ordinary,

silver, black leather seats, Giant OEM pushbar. Frankly this is a luxury car compared to my 97 XE (RIP). I got t-boned by someone running a red light at about 35 MPH, hit right between the drivers door with the front drive system taking most of the impact. No airbag deployment and the darn thing was still running and was drivable but bent up pretty good (although leaking coolent).

 

Anyway long story short, found this one very clean, more power, simple nice features, LEATHER and sadley with a few recent nagging issues (I like things to run perfectly) but hope to have it ironed out soon. Friday I am going to give it a throttle body cleaning, change the plugs and check the wires. From there I can at least rule those items out..and the plugs should tell a story if indeed only one is misfiring.

 

I like the Pathfinders quite a bit as you all know!

 

 

Pete

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Well there you have it...I knew something was brewing. Started, was stumbling...I opted to drive it to hopefully draw a code...I got a flashing SES light, then that went out, then back on with soild lit SES...will see what she says.

 

Peter

:shrug:

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I have the same situation with mine. If I try and hold rpm's at 1700 while in neutral it starts cutting in and out. I just thought it was the throttle position sensor since the throttle has to be depressed such a small amount to hold 1700rpm. Let me know if you find anything out. mine is 3.5L

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I was told by a nissan tech that about that rpm is where (and i apologize for lack of memory here) two sensors switch over and that cycling is normal. Then he asked me why I would hold my rpm there...well being stuck in traffic and bored trying to find out what was going on with my now seemingly real issue with a coil or some other electrical demon. I will post a follow up.

 

Pete

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I have 2 bad coils one on each bank...My local mechanic (that I trust) says that while it's up to me the new coil packs are redesigned to resolve this issue...so I could replace 2 or do all 6 for about the same labor just extra parts. I just bought this truck about 4,000 miles ago for under $10.5 with 44K on it and so far put a new battery (preventative) set of new tires (again my choice)..so I figure I'll invest in the coils and they have a 12 month warrenty so here goes. I wonder if I should have gone with a newer model 05/06 used but I do like this style better and the interior quality is nicer (to me). Here I am selling myself on if I made the right choice! SO, without further whining...I'll throw some additonal $$ at it and see if anything else goes on. :togo:

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$750.00 later I have 6 new coils, a cleaned MAF and throttle body. 12 month warrenty on the parts so here's hopes to a trouble free 50K. Apparently the new coils are corrected for whatever defect they had. If it were not 14 degrees here I may have opted to to this myself would have saves about $200.00 but it's done.

 

Thanks everyone for the insight. Peter

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  • 10 months later...

I know this post is almost a year old now, however i just started having the same problem. I find it only happens when I haven't driven on the highway for a couple weeks. Usually when i'm just doing short trips around town and it's very wet. I will get a really bad shudder and the SES light will start flashing. usually if i bring up the RPMs for a bit and then shut it off and restart the shudder goes away. i haven't run the codes yet since I'm kind of low on funds and need to wait for some back pay to come in at the end of the month. Anyone else had this problem? There was no answer from tbsbiker2 saying that the coil swap fixed it or not..

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Sorry...didn't see any PM...and I haven't been real diligent about checking...so the answer is YES...the truck has run flawless since this. Keep in mind I bit the bullet and replaced all 6 of them...I could have just replaced the ones that threw a code but since I purhased this truck for the long haul I wanted the peace of mind. The truck only had 46K on it...and now that I have closer to 58 on it..the one thing I wished I would have done since these are coil on plugs was to do the plugs at the same time...my mechanic said it wasn't necessary since they are 100K plugs but I prefer the preventitive approach...still though I didn't do it and now wished I would have! Still though the truck runs great so probably not neccessary. If you have higher miles you might do it at the same time, all depends on your budget. Oh if you do it....go with the OEM NKG is what I hear.

 

Sorry for the delay on the post!

 

peter

 

 

I know this post is almost a year old now, however i just started having the same problem. I find it only happens when I haven't driven on the highway for a couple weeks. Usually when i'm just doing short trips around town and it's very wet. I will get a really bad shudder and the SES light will start flashing. usually if i bring up the RPMs for a bit and then shut it off and restart the shudder goes away. i haven't run the codes yet since I'm kind of low on funds and need to wait for some back pay to come in at the end of the month. Anyone else had this problem? There was no answer from tbsbiker2 saying that the coil swap fixed it or not..
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Thanks Peter!

 

I found another older post that said he just did the plugs and everything was working out. Going to go that route first and see what happens. I'm almost sure they are the original plugs and i'm not at just about 200k KMs! Don't know for sure though, it was bought used, and served as a Nissan dealer vehicle for 3 years right before I bought it, 1 owner before the Dealer took it back.

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Well you probably need plugs for sure at 200K so a good place to start if they were not done at the 100,000 miles. I have heard that the newer units are improved and since these are coil on plug units (you have to remove the coils to get the plugs) you can check to see if they are the updated coils...I have heard the markings are different. If you are having the dealer do the plugs be prepared to spend some dough anyway since they are costly in parts and labor to replace. Check the codes too...find out what banks are throwing a code and check the plugs on those to see if they look noticibly bad...Can you find out through the dealer any service records using the VIN?

 

Good luck...my truck runs like a champ for sure.

 

 

 

Thanks Peter!

 

I found another older post that said he just did the plugs and everything was working out. Going to go that route first and see what happens. I'm almost sure they are the original plugs and i'm not at just about 200k KMs! Don't know for sure though, it was bought used, and served as a Nissan dealer vehicle for 3 years right before I bought it, 1 owner before the Dealer took it back.

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