BigMike Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 well after my starter died i decided to remove it and have it rebuilt. cost me $45USD to have it rebuilt instead of paying $100 plus a $50 core for a new one, and instead of having a shop do and takin my money i desided to do it my self. one thing to remember is that i have a body lift that made the removal easier. all you need to remove the starter are some basic tools: 1. Rachet, meteric sockets, flex-joints, and extentions 2. Jack 3. Jack Stand 4. Flathead Screwdriver 5. Tire removal kit 6. you might want some sort of glasses to keep dirt and muck out of your eyes. they arnt nessasary but they do help. removing the oil filter makes it a lot easier to remove the starter, so you might as well change the oil while your at it. your gonna start disconnecting the battery. removing the front skid plate and wheel. the starter is located right behind the control arm and frame. the bolt for the skid are 12mm, the plate isnt very big nore is it heavy. after you remove the skid you can drail the oil from the engine and removing the oil filter. REMEMBER TO PUT THE OIL PAN PLUG BACK IN OR YOU'LL HAVE A OILY MESS. here is a pic of the starter and a reason why you'll want to change the oil. as you can see its kind of a tight fit. there are two bolts, both 14mm, right behind where there starter is located. they are pretty easy to see but can be PITA to remove. this is where those flex-joints and extentions come in handy. i dont have a pic of it but heres a pic of bolt holes with the starter out to give you an idea of where it will be. i used one joint and two extentions to remove them both. after you remove the bolts its easier to remove the plugs on the starter. there are three plugs i removed, two of which are on the starter it self. the other has a orange boot to protect it, that is the oil pressure sensor plug. the solinoid trigger plug was the one i had the most trouble with. i use a screw driver to remove three screws that hold the metal shrowd that covers the plug. then i moved the shrowd aside and pulled out the plug. to remove the starter you gotta coax it up and over the center link. after you take it out its time to take it to get rebuilt or put a new one in. i had mine rebuilt. heres a pic of it. there you can see a good shot of the trigger plug and positive plug. i didnt take a before and after pics to compare, but trust me. it was a real mess covered in dirt and coated in old oil. the instillation is the reverse. make sure you fill er up with oil 3.5-4 quarts. you can do all this in about a day if you have every thing, or 2-3 if you have to take it in to get rebuilt like i did. after you done you can start her up no prob. am i missing anything? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mookie Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 Great write up! Like the pics. I guess I remove mine a bit different. After draining the oil, removing the oil filter, and undoing the starter bolts and wires, I just slide the starter forward as far as it goes, then back and up along the inside of the passenger fire wall. Takes just a few minutes to remove it. The trick is to wiggle it up and out. My starters kept filling up with oil and then I'd have to clean them out to work...so now I carefully cover the starter with a plastic bag when I do oil changes 'cause I always seem to be messy no matter how careful I am. :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sw Posted June 24, 2004 Share Posted June 24, 2004 for doing some of it your self, good feeling ay? if you had access to a lathe you could of done the rebuild aswell..... anyways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMike Posted June 24, 2004 Author Share Posted June 24, 2004 yea, gives me a warm felling inside. this is the first time ive ever changed a starter or anything besides the oil on my rig. that stupid grey plug pissed me off. i couldnt even get it off. i tried workin it off and nothin. then my buddy came and unpluged it for me with his little hands. curse my big hands!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Good write up. May have to use it. I've been meaning to pull mine out just to clean it up because of the location near the oil filter. Wonder what the clearances and work involved would be for someone with some fab skills to work up some sort of shield to protect the starter. Maybe it isn't a practical thought, but who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatterHorn Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 its not that practical I dont think ... you can just as easily put a rag in there every time and it will catch and soak up the oil ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 its not that practical I dont think ... you can just as easily put a rag in there every time and it will catch and soak up the oil ... I know, and I do. If anything, its just a dumb design by Nissan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Once again, good write up :cool2: but please please please tell me you didn't put that or another FRAM filter on your pathy.. :oops: Those things should be outlawed. I've seen them plug up after 10min running, i've seen them come apart after 500 miles, they don't have a proper check in them so you get dry start ups. etc etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMike Posted June 25, 2004 Author Share Posted June 25, 2004 well i never had a problem with FRAM and never really heard of any complaints what brand do you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Fram filters are the worst you can buy. Seriously. Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. These filters are manufactured by Allied Signal, Inc. Please do not buy these filters. By boycotting it, we may be able to cause some change. I have personally had one if these filters fail and actually cause engine damage due to bits of paper and glue floating around in the engine. Fram Extra Guard PH8AThis filter cartridge has a small outside diameter with a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time, but they often leak anyway. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow, and is made of thin material. Fram Double Guard DG8AThis is a frustrating filter. Please do not buy it. It is one of the most expensive filters you can buy and it is junk. Inside is a basic Fram Extra Guard (PH8A) filter element that has larger diameter holes at the end and has been pre-oiled. I assume this is to hold the Teflon particles in the filter element before the unit is installed. Don’t put Teflon in your engine. It does not belong there! DuPont does not recommend using their Teflon product in internal combustion engines. Although it has the worst filter element possible (193 sqin), it does have a clever spring-loaded nitrile rubber anti-drainback valve and bypass valve combination. Too bad the rest of the filter is worthless. Please don’t buy this filter! http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/ I've since gone to NAPA Gold or Wix filters(same manufacturer). They're just as cheap and work great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Fram filters are the worst you can buy. Seriously. I've since gone to NAPA Gold or Wix filters(same manufacturer). They're just as cheap and work great. Thanks for the backup 88, those things are horrible. Like 88 said, use either wix, napa, or carquest (They are all made by wix) Also, if for a decent cheep oil, use Napa oil its made by Valvoline thus must meet their quality standars and it usually runs about 1.19 per quart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted June 25, 2004 Share Posted June 25, 2004 Does anyone recommend Purolator? They make their own as well the the Pep Boys store brand ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red-finder Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 Big Mike don't feel bad I use the same Fram filter and the same Castrol oil. I always thought the Fram filter was a good one :o Nice write up! I was going to ask the same question-what can you do to keep oil from pouring all over the starter every time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 Jack up the passenger's side as far as you can before taking off the filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatterHorn Posted June 26, 2004 Share Posted June 26, 2004 Jack up the passenger's side as far as you can before taking off the filter. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87pathy Posted June 27, 2004 Share Posted June 27, 2004 Does anyone recommend Purolator? They make their own as well the the Pep Boys store brand ones. i've heard mixed responses in regard to puralator, I guess its probably not so bad , i've ran them in my rigs from time to time (when i don't do my own oil change) and havn't had any problems, i alway tell them i don't care what kind of filter as long as its not a fram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nufy Posted September 22, 2004 Share Posted September 22, 2004 Great Write-up. I never would've thought of bringing it out over the Centerlink. I just did mine in about 3 hours including Oil change. Now I just gotta bring the old one back for the core charge. Cheers :cool2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChromoTech Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 how do you know if your starter is goingout? sometimes my truck doesnt even turn over for like 3 turns of the key, it just clicks and then finally it starts fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramithepimp77 Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 I had the same problem. It just recently stopped randomly. I got my starter/batt/alt all checked after I changed my alt and the guy said everything seems to be good but I dont belive him since my S*** WASNT STARTING CORRECTLY! I have been told a few times that it could be my batt. My alt was overcharging apperently and the day I changed it the batt was like BLOWING up, it was expanding which was kinda scary. Ever since I changed the alt the batt hasnt done anything. I am gonna change out my batt here soon and see if everything goes well. Rami Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted September 23, 2004 Share Posted September 23, 2004 Chromotech: go read this thread: http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/showflat....5995#Post317219 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nufy Posted September 24, 2004 Share Posted September 24, 2004 Maybe this thread can be cleaned up and pasted at the top with the other Important topics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87mudfinder Posted September 25, 2004 Share Posted September 25, 2004 Just did my starter and it sucked the biggest bawls ever! oh by the way selling my old one for 45 bucks for a rebuild! Considering the autowreckers are 100 bucks for a used(not knowing what your getting) and the 2 places i looked new were 275 and 320- WOW not cheap parts! So a used STARTER for sale here for 45 bucks with a working solonoid So so so tight to get in and out. 88pathoffroad What are the exact name of tires on the Pathfinder you have... Where do i order them from? I am seeking a set for my new vehicle soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87mudfinder Posted September 25, 2004 Share Posted September 25, 2004 I had to trouble shoot my starter One night home it just went crazy! Fired up fine parked it 5 hours later started up sounded like the battery was going bad! Double checked with a new battery (buddies) nothing same effect. Cleaned all the greasy wires/ still nothing... I felt it was the starter... Changed it and BAZAAAM it was the starter! Not a fun Job manual was not very helpfull, and i chaged the oil at the same time oil filter had to come off.. NOTE REMOVE THE BATTERY FROM THE VEHICLE WHEN DOING THIS JOB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted September 26, 2004 Share Posted September 26, 2004 Super Swamper TSL radials. I've decided that I need a 33x12.50 Swamper TSL/SX or something like that instead, though. The centersection tread just kinda blurs together and I'd like more tread block separation all the way across. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nufy Posted September 27, 2004 Share Posted September 27, 2004 Why remove the battery ?? Disconnect yes but why remove.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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