Akmike Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 try this again... All this info is great, however it's missing one thing... there one small bolt that threads through timing cover housing flange that also threads into the coolant elbow at the front of the intake. To get to this bolt, I had to also remove the tensioning pulley mounting plate. Once that is all done, viola. Intake manifold comes right off. I might have damaged the timing cover in this process. TBD. Anyway all is good now just waiting for the KS and need to find the hose for that elbow too, it's toast, aged and I'm not trusting it to go back on. Thanks all. Cheers. Timing cover is good. It's just the brittle rubber washer that was damaged. I have a good replacement. Valves look good! Only 177k on Julian, so he should be good for a while. I'm putting it back together asap after KS comes in and I find a hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyR Posted February 28, 2020 Share Posted February 28, 2020 I just noticed the wireless that attaches to the knock sensor only has one pin. When we access the sensor to our surprised there was no sensor Recommendations? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 The knock sensor has a two-pin plug, you may be looking at a wire for something else. You might check around in case the sensor was just relocated. I relo'd mine to the back of the driver's side head so I wouldn't have to pull the intake apart again if it went out. Is it throwing a code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGhost Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 On 2/22/2007 at 8:19 PM, Casey.T said: why are we removing the Valve Covers??? are they leaking? No Leaks just make sure they are all torqued to spec before putting the plenum back on. That will come off with the Intake Plenum, leave it alone.... Once you remove the Plenum, see if you can reach in under the lower Intake from the back side... I was able to on my 91... its either a 10mm or a 12mm (patients) On the back side of the Plenum there is a Vaccuum line, and 2 coolant hoses, disco the hoses on the firewall side not from the Plenum assembly... and the breather hose from the right side valve cover, disco from the Valve Cover... My $.02 on the how to... buy a book or 3 Power wash the engine compartment(did that the 2nd time I took it off) Garage 1.remove hood for accessability(maybe over kill but you will appreciate the room and the light) 2. disco battery 3. pop the top of the air box disco MAF connector, remove air box lid and MAF Assy 4. mark and remove small vaccuum hoses from charcoal canister and intake tube and thorttle body, Remove intake tube. 5. disco throttle and CC Cables(2 10mm bolts then) slip them up and under the wiper out of the way. 6.On the back side of the Plenum there is a Vaccuum line, and 2 coolant hoses, disco the hoses on the firewall side not from the Plenum assembly... and the breather hose from the right side valve cover, disco from the Valve Cover... 7. Brake Vaccuum hose(spin it 90* it will stay out of the way) 8. You can remove the plug cables individually or pop the whole cap, disco the cables from the spark plugs. 9. (may have a loosening patern) Break torque on the Hex head bolts down the center of the plenum, then remove them careful not to drop the washers(did that too) 10. Plenum should be movable but there is 1 electical connecter hiding on the back drivers side, disco that and the whole assembly should come off... Be Very Careful not to let anything fall in the exposed intake. Now 80% of the mass is out of the way, climb in, reach around the back and see if you can get to the knock sensor(slick has a pic) If not follow the procedure in the Manal for removing the lower intake. Before you put it all back together... Good time to change the plugs Damn this is a lot for me as a noob, but I've gota replace the the knock sensor and the truck came with plugs, intake, collector, and valve cover gaskets... So I guess I should just do the whole thing properly. Anyone got a video of this? Most stuff on youtube isn't super relevant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 13, 2020 Share Posted November 13, 2020 No video unfortunately, but it's not too bad. I had mine apart when I got the truck because the space under the lower manifold was full of rat crap. IIRC the only thing that really fought me was the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve. Heat is your friend there. If you can't get the nut holding the tube on to budge (or it's twisting the tube), you might get away with just unbolting the valve from the plenum and letting it sit there. Make sure you have the correct lower intake manifold gaskets. The first time I did mine, I ended up with the gaskets for a VG33, which are shaped the same but they're super-thin stamped steel with no rubber. The gaskets you want are the thicker steel ones with rubber around the ports. If you use the thin gaskets, nothing lines up when you go to put it back together. +1 for doing the plugs while it's apart. It'll never be easier. When I had mine apart, I cleaned out around the plugs and broke some casting flash off the heads so that the junk that falls in around the plugs would actually drain out as intended. If you haven't downloaded the '95 FSM from Nico yet, do that. Lots of good info for torque specs and disassembly and whatnot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGhost Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 On 11/13/2020 at 12:36 PM, Slartibartfast said: No video unfortunately, but it's not too bad. I had mine apart when I got the truck because the space under the lower manifold was full of rat crap. IIRC the only thing that really fought me was the pipe from the exhaust manifold to the EGR valve. Heat is your friend there. If you can't get the nut holding the tube on to budge (or it's twisting the tube), you might get away with just unbolting the valve from the plenum and letting it sit there. Make sure you have the correct lower intake manifold gaskets. The first time I did mine, I ended up with the gaskets for a VG33, which are shaped the same but they're super-thin stamped steel with no rubber. The gaskets you want are the thicker steel ones with rubber around the ports. If you use the thin gaskets, nothing lines up when you go to put it back together. +1 for doing the plugs while it's apart. It'll never be easier. When I had mine apart, I cleaned out around the plugs and broke some casting flash off the heads so that the junk that falls in around the plugs would actually drain out as intended. If you haven't downloaded the '95 FSM from Nico yet, do that. Lots of good info for torque specs and disassembly and whatnot. Hey thanks for the reply, glad people are still active here! Checked the gasket! looks like they're the right ones. Sounds like I'll just have to take my time with it and maybe leave her apart overnight... might wait till spring lol. Thanks for the link, that's way better than my Chilton manual, it feels like it just introduces everything but doesn't actually show enough detail to do any work when you're starting with almost zero experience. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Yeah, the FSM makes everything easier. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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