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Guys don't kill me, a 4x4 turning on question, HELP I can't go 4hi, only down


NaturaTek
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I have a buddy that has a real nice z71. About 400 hp 450 torque. I have taken it out several times and never found a need for 4-low. One time riding along with him he buries it. He digs out the bumper and hooks up the strap. He wants me to get in the truck why an f250 snatches, and I mean snatches trying to get his truck out. I never thought about the truck being in 4 low. I matted the gas. Make no mistake I threw all of the mud out of the hole and rocketed up to dry ground. I got out and relieved myself immediately. This is how I remember how to shift my truck. 2 hi to 4 hi is ok. That's why they are next to each other. Neutral is there as a warning, you are now entering 4 low. If it can get worse, this is when it will happen.

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Glad to hear you figured out how to use it but I wouldn't use it on pavement unless I'm absolutely stuck.

 

Even when I'm offroading, I'm always driving in 2WD until I get stuck then 4HI is what I use to get out, pop it back into 2WD and take a different line unless I absolutely cannot get through... then I use 4HI to get through...

 

4LO is my "oh poop, i think I got stuck in 4HI..."

 

I've driven up in mountains with snow and loose gravel in 2WD.

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Some people will tell you that's a mistake, to wait until your stuck before shifting into 4 hi...I know it's pretty much the consensus in this forum anyway...I don't know why though because if the hubs are turning, even though you're already stuck, the front hubs will still engage and pull you out...I'm pretty sure this has happened to me this way several times. But as long as your already offroad in dirt or grass, mud, gravel, whatever, it's safe to shift into 4 hi at any time, as long as the axle and hubs can unload if needed. That's why it's not safe on pavement unless it's really raining, because there's too much traction on dry pavement and won't allow the axle or hubs to spin.

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All hubs lock, it's just a matter of whether they are automatic locking hubs like the factory 4 wheel drive shift on the fly system, or the manual type where you get out and lock each one. Both types (unless it was designed as a full time 4wd system like a Subaru or Land Cruiser) can only be driven where there will be some slippage on the ground. Trust me, you'll know you're in the wrong if you ever leave it in 4 hi and try to drive on dry pavement, it feels like the front end gets all binded up and really heavy, then all of a sudden 'lets go' it's a creepy sensation.

 

The problem with auto locking hubs (I have tested this) is that they always unlock in reverse, even in 4 lo. Next time you're in dirt shift into 4 hi and drive forward a few feet, then reverse slowly and you'll hear a small click, that's the front hubs unlocking. It's just the nature of the beast, (my F250 has 4wd in reverse though..why is that?) I guess that was the only way the engineers could come up with to allow the front hubs to be able to engage when you're on the road going ten miles an hour in a flood and decide you want 4 wheel drive, you shift and the axles turn thereby locking the hubs...but as the saying goes...'What goes up....' The engineers knew that 99 % of the time we really only need 4wd while going forward, so they gave the hub itself a way to unlock conveniently, all you have to do is reverse, after shifting back into 2 hi.

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Some people will tell you that's a mistake, to wait until your stuck before shifting into 4 hi...I know it's pretty much the consensus in this forum anyway...I don't know why though because if the hubs are turning, even though you're already stuck, the front hubs will still engage and pull you out...I'm pretty sure this has happened to me this way several times.

The main reason being, it that it takes a lot more traction to pull yourself out of being stuck in 2wd because you have no momentum and might have dug some holes already. The point of being in 4Hi it to get through the obstacle without getting stuck, rather than risk a lot of recovery work. The other side to that is if you do get stuck in 4Hi, you don't have much to fall back on other than said recovery work.

Personally I think it is a balance of both...

 

 

even with locking hubs?

With locking hubs, what I recommend is to lock them in when you hit the trail, but use 2wd most of the time. Come to a stop before a difficult obstacle, shift into 4Hi or 4Lo as appropriate and proceed.

 

B

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If your hubs are locked, you should be able to go between 2HI and 4HI without stopping, provided there's no slippage when you do it. I've done this going from clear roads to snowy ones a bunch of times. So long as you shift before you need it (while the front and rear diffs are spinning at the same speed), and the front hubs are locked (again so that the front and rear diffs are speed matched), it should go in no problem. If the rears are slipping already, or your hubs aren't locked in, you'll have to stop before shifting, or the transfer selectors will just grind and refuse to go in.

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  • 2 years later...

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooo

 

DO NOT drive on the highway in 4Lo, u wouldnt even want to do that in 4Hi. Try pushing the lever straight down and forward back into 4hi like you had to do to get to 4lo...if that doesnt work do not take it on the highway

I drive my 95 in 4H not exceding 80km/h

4L I use for idling up hills & hunting (driving at slow quiet crawl/2nd gear no throttle) shes governed to stay running it works awesome.

 

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

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