ezlife Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I have a buddy that has a real nice z71. About 400 hp 450 torque. I have taken it out several times and never found a need for 4-low. One time riding along with him he buries it. He digs out the bumper and hooks up the strap. He wants me to get in the truck why an f250 snatches, and I mean snatches trying to get his truck out. I never thought about the truck being in 4 low. I matted the gas. Make no mistake I threw all of the mud out of the hole and rocketed up to dry ground. I got out and relieved myself immediately. This is how I remember how to shift my truck. 2 hi to 4 hi is ok. That's why they are next to each other. Neutral is there as a warning, you are now entering 4 low. If it can get worse, this is when it will happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kidscollegefund Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 I'll be damned, past 3 years always thought I was in 4Lo when I was in 4Hi. Got to go out and climb some trees with my truck now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted September 14, 2013 Share Posted September 14, 2013 (edited) Yeah. Touch the skinny pedal with your tow and it will send the back of your head into the headrest. Wheel on! Edited September 14, 2013 by devonianwalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Glad to hear you figured out how to use it but I wouldn't use it on pavement unless I'm absolutely stuck. Even when I'm offroading, I'm always driving in 2WD until I get stuck then 4HI is what I use to get out, pop it back into 2WD and take a different line unless I absolutely cannot get through... then I use 4HI to get through... 4LO is my "oh poop, i think I got stuck in 4HI..." I've driven up in mountains with snow and loose gravel in 2WD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Some people will tell you that's a mistake, to wait until your stuck before shifting into 4 hi...I know it's pretty much the consensus in this forum anyway...I don't know why though because if the hubs are turning, even though you're already stuck, the front hubs will still engage and pull you out...I'm pretty sure this has happened to me this way several times. But as long as your already offroad in dirt or grass, mud, gravel, whatever, it's safe to shift into 4 hi at any time, as long as the axle and hubs can unload if needed. That's why it's not safe on pavement unless it's really raining, because there's too much traction on dry pavement and won't allow the axle or hubs to spin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 even with locking hubs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gv280z Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 All hubs lock, it's just a matter of whether they are automatic locking hubs like the factory 4 wheel drive shift on the fly system, or the manual type where you get out and lock each one. Both types (unless it was designed as a full time 4wd system like a Subaru or Land Cruiser) can only be driven where there will be some slippage on the ground. Trust me, you'll know you're in the wrong if you ever leave it in 4 hi and try to drive on dry pavement, it feels like the front end gets all binded up and really heavy, then all of a sudden 'lets go' it's a creepy sensation. The problem with auto locking hubs (I have tested this) is that they always unlock in reverse, even in 4 lo. Next time you're in dirt shift into 4 hi and drive forward a few feet, then reverse slowly and you'll hear a small click, that's the front hubs unlocking. It's just the nature of the beast, (my F250 has 4wd in reverse though..why is that?) I guess that was the only way the engineers could come up with to allow the front hubs to be able to engage when you're on the road going ten miles an hour in a flood and decide you want 4 wheel drive, you shift and the axles turn thereby locking the hubs...but as the saying goes...'What goes up....' The engineers knew that 99 % of the time we really only need 4wd while going forward, so they gave the hub itself a way to unlock conveniently, all you have to do is reverse, after shifting back into 2 hi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Some people will tell you that's a mistake, to wait until your stuck before shifting into 4 hi...I know it's pretty much the consensus in this forum anyway...I don't know why though because if the hubs are turning, even though you're already stuck, the front hubs will still engage and pull you out...I'm pretty sure this has happened to me this way several times. The main reason being, it that it takes a lot more traction to pull yourself out of being stuck in 2wd because you have no momentum and might have dug some holes already. The point of being in 4Hi it to get through the obstacle without getting stuck, rather than risk a lot of recovery work. The other side to that is if you do get stuck in 4Hi, you don't have much to fall back on other than said recovery work. Personally I think it is a balance of both... even with locking hubs? With locking hubs, what I recommend is to lock them in when you hit the trail, but use 2wd most of the time. Come to a stop before a difficult obstacle, shift into 4Hi or 4Lo as appropriate and proceed. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 If your hubs are locked, you should be able to go between 2HI and 4HI without stopping, provided there's no slippage when you do it. I've done this going from clear roads to snowy ones a bunch of times. So long as you shift before you need it (while the front and rear diffs are spinning at the same speed), and the front hubs are locked (again so that the front and rear diffs are speed matched), it should go in no problem. If the rears are slipping already, or your hubs aren't locked in, you'll have to stop before shifting, or the transfer selectors will just grind and refuse to go in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Makes sense. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooo DO NOT drive on the highway in 4Lo, u wouldnt even want to do that in 4Hi. Try pushing the lever straight down and forward back into 4hi like you had to do to get to 4lo...if that doesnt work do not take it on the highway I drive my 95 in 4H not exceding 80km/h4L I use for idling up hills & hunting (driving at slow quiet crawl/2nd gear no throttle) shes governed to stay running it works awesome. Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechanic58 Posted May 30, 2018 Share Posted May 30, 2018 Omg...I tried to read this thread. Tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 11, 2018 Share Posted June 11, 2018 Omg...I tried to read this thread. Tried. ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 BUMP Good info on understanding the shift procedure of the TX10 transfer case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted June 28, 2018 Share Posted June 28, 2018 I just remembered the guy who started this thread was supposed to send me a box of parts, I never did get those. What a guy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98dreamer Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 NT, I'm totally glad you asked this question. Just got my 98 two days ago. It needs some engine work so I haven't even tried the transfer case yet. Thanks for going first, bro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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