MadManMike Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 (edited) Hi guys, I decided to replace my starter... I was fallowing the How-To in the how-to section.. took me about 15mins to get the bolts off and the plugs un-plugged. But I can't seem to move it forward very far... I have been playing with it for about 2 hours now and I am starting to think I am doing something wrong .. here is what I have done: 1. Unbolted starter 2. Unplugged the cords 3. Tried sliding starter towards the front of car 4. Get it as far as the transmission lines (I think thats what they are) and get stuck. 5. Tried coming out the top but get stuck on engine mount and or the exhaust manifold. When trying to bring it out to the front of the car the bracket keeps getting stuck.. then I rotate the starter so the bracket won't get stuck and the solenoid gets stuck on something.. Even if the solenoid or the bracket didn't get stuck on something I don't think there is enough room to get by the transmission lines. Am I doing it wrong?? going the wrong way? So now the only thing I can think to do is to remove the manifold and take it out that way? Any help you can give me would be great. -Mike Edited July 14, 2007 by MadManMike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 Welcome to starter replacing hell. I spent close to 4 hours trying to pull that freakin starter out. I don't remember correctly how I did it, but you have to rotate the starter until you find that sweet spot to push it thru. The guys with Body lifts will start bragging, I can already hear it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 It's so easy with a 3" body lift it's ridiculous! Are you able to get into the wheelwell and have a look at the situation through the body gap there? That's where I get most of the access for mine. If you can, take the shield off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted July 14, 2007 Author Share Posted July 14, 2007 It's so easy with a 3" body lift it's ridiculous! Are you able to get into the wheel well and have a look at the situation through the body gap there? That's where I get most of the access for mine. If you can, take the shield off. Yeah, I got the wheel off and took a look.... it pretty much seems impossible. What do you mean by "the shield"? See the bolt that it's resting on in my pic... I believe thats a bolt on the front drivetrain (not sure If thats what it's called), but any way if I unbolted the 4 bolts on the "drivetrain" would it drop down? or would It just be more of a mess? because if it would drop down I could take it out that way. -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 (edited) Yeah, I got the wheel off and took a look.... it pretty much seems impossible. What do you mean by "the shield"? See the bolt that it's resting on in my pic... I believe thats a bolt on the front drivetrain (not sure If thats what it's called), but any way if I unbolted the 4 bolts on the "drivetrain" would it drop down? or would It just be more of a mess? because if it would drop down I could take it out that way. -Mike Trust me there is a way to push it thru. The shield that 88 was refering to is that "stupid bracket" in your pic. I replaced my starter with out taking anything off. Like I said, try rotating it around, I think you have to place the shield between the oil tranny lines and the sway bar to push it thru. Edited July 14, 2007 by solid snake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 ouch on the autos...i usually unbolt it...pull back about 4 ins...rotate to the right...pull a lil more...then rotate left...then disconnect connectors...then pull and turn back to the right and it comes out just over the CL or maybe behind it...but those tranny lines do look like a problem...good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted July 14, 2007 Share Posted July 14, 2007 It's so easy with a 3" body lift it's ridiculous! Are you able to get into the wheelwell and have a look at the situation through the body gap there? That's where I get most of the access for mine. If you can, take the shield off. LOL, ditto! But yeah, rotation seems like the key. I had to slide it through one spot at on angle, then spin it around to another for the next turn. Its not straight forward, ya have to sit there and spin (and probably cuss) until it comes out. I haven't really found a magic pill, other than beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 Yey I got it out... I just took off the little cover bracket thingy (thanks 88pathoffroad) and rotated it so that the solenoid was facing up and it slid right out. Now the question is how am I going to get the new one back in when I pick it up tomorrow? Thanks for your help guys.. I am sure I will have more questions when I go to put it back in -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 Same way you got it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 15, 2007 Share Posted July 15, 2007 I have mentioned several times..... Rotate the Starter so the Solenoid is in the 12:00 position then slide it forward, then rotate it back to about 10:00 and it slides right out.... Install is just the reverse:) BTW..... it is a PITA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted July 15, 2007 Author Share Posted July 15, 2007 Okay got the new starter in.... and it still has the same problem On the bonus side it starts much faster now... but it still clicks about 10 times before it starts... After reading about 30 articles on this subject I was under the impression that if your starter relay clicks it means your starter is bad... if nothing happends when you turn the key then it's your relay. I tried jumping it to see if the battery was low and it still clicked 10 times before it started. Is it possible that my cables are going bad? Should I try and get a new relay? Just checked and the relay is only $15 at my parts store so I just might pick one up... what relay is my starter relay? I know it's on the left side somewhere but there are 4 of them. Thanks -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 I don't think you have a "starter" relay. Then again, I don't know anything about the Nissan V6. But the clicking is your solenoid. It could be as you said, a bad wire or connection but I'd be leaning toward your ignition switch being the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Okay got the new starter in.... and it still has the same problem On the bonus side it starts much faster now... but it still clicks about 10 times before it starts... After reading about 30 articles on this subject I was under the impression that if your starter relay clicks it means your starter is bad... if nothing happends when you turn the key then it's your relay. I tried jumping it to see if the battery was low and it still clicked 10 times before it started. Is it possible that my cables are going bad? Should I try and get a new relay? Just checked and the relay is only $15 at my parts store so I just might pick one up... what relay is my starter relay? I know it's on the left side somewhere but there are 4 of them. Thanks -Mike Possible loose/bad connection coming off of the +Pos terminal... Olivers Starter took about 40min total time, including up to Shucks to have the old one tested, then re-installing the new one.... someone had already buggered up his oil sending unit... We will have to re-wire that at a later date.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted July 16, 2007 Author Share Posted July 16, 2007 I don't think you have a "starter" relay. Then again, I don't know anything about the Nissan V6. But the clicking is your solenoid. It could be as you said, a bad wire or connection but I'd be leaning toward your ignition switch being the problem. So.. The idea is the solenoid is getting enough juice to partially work? but not enough to fully work... You know at one point they had an after market alarm hooked up and it might have had an inhibitor relay... I wonder if when they took the alarm out they messed something up with the ignition wires.. I suppose I should take a gander under the dash and around the steering column.. I might find some poorly spliced ignition wires.. -Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solid snake Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Could be, you might as well check the pos lead from the alty to the battery, the main wire. It can be bad as well and needs to be replaced. Especially if there is corossion on the lead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 So.. The idea is the solenoid is getting enough juice to partially work? but not enough to fully work... You know at one point they had an after market alarm hooked up and it might have had an inhibitor relay... I wonder if when they took the alarm out they messed something up with the ignition wires.. I suppose I should take a gander under the dash and around the steering column.. I might find some poorly spliced ignition wires.. -Mike Good luck with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgranch Posted July 16, 2007 Share Posted July 16, 2007 Here is a suggestion before you start tracking down wires. Pull the spark plugs or at least pull 5 of the 6 and see if the starter clicks 10 times before turning the motor. If it does then go ahead and trace out the wiring. The click you hear (I am assuming it is pretty loud not just a quiet noise) is the starter solenoid engaging. If that is occuring there can not be bad wires to that solenoid. Internal to the solenoid is the contactor for the starter to turn. Could it be bad on a new starter- yes, however it more probable that there is either insufficient voltage to turn the motor over or there is a motor problem that causes a binding (could be tranny also but again less likely) When looking at the cables do not forget the ground cable that is very important also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeppelindrummer Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 So.. The idea is the solenoid is getting enough juice to partially work? but not enough to fully work... You know at one point they had an after market alarm hooked up and it might have had an inhibitor relay... I wonder if when they took the alarm out they messed something up with the ignition wires.. I suppose I should take a gander under the dash and around the steering column.. I might find some poorly spliced ignition wires.. -Mike So i'm wondering.... does your pathy start like it should now? Mine had the exact same problem, and i'm in the process between school, work and getting the funds to getting my old one out, that now click, click, clicks.... and doesn't start anymore, and getting a new one in. SO i'm hoping i don't have a bigger problem then just the starter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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