Hoohaa Centerlinks

[hoohaa]

Ordering instructions:

 

I charge $225 with a $100 core fee. You can send in your stock CL and not have to deal with the core fee. If you pay the core fee you have 45 days to return the core to receive a refund. I am running very low on Xterra centerlink cores because I haven't received cores back.

 

Shipping to the lower 48 is free.

 

I accept paypal to the following address: rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com Please include an extra 3% if you use paypal to cover their seller fees.

 

I also accept check or MO. I will wait for the check to clear before sending the link.

 

I don't offer multiple "stages" of kits. I have never seen evidence that this is necessary. In fact, everything I have seen and experiences points to the TREs being the weak point. The TREs will act as a fuse and will break/bend WAY before you run into the kind of forces that require double sheer pitmans and idlers. I DO, however, recommend a simple idler arm brace if you plan to wheel or otherwise abuse your truck. I don't make idler arm braces.

 

I offer Hardbody, Pathfinder, Xterra and Frontier CLs. Give me a hollar at rbcscapegoat@yahoo.com if you are interested.

 

My centerlinks come shipped with all necessary hardware, including two grade 8 bolts drilled for cotter pins, two snazzy castle nuts, four washers, and two cotter pins. All hardware is heavy duty nickel or zinc plated stuff.

 

 

 

 

Installation instructions:

Remove your old centerlink

Step 1: Remove the four cotter pins securing the four 19mm castle nuts.

Step 2: Using a 19mm socket remove the four castle nuts.

Step 3: Use either a BFH or a tie rod end puller to pop loose the four ball joint studs. At this point the centerlink should be loose from both the idler arm and the pitman arm, and both tie rod ends should be out of the centerlink.

Step 4: Once the centerlink is removed please toss it back in the box, tape it up, and ship it back to me so I can make one for the next guy!

Drill the Idler and Pitman

Step 1: Decide how you want to proceed. You have a few options. You can either do it yourself or have it drilled at a machine shop for a case of beer or send it to me and I'll drill it out and ship it back to you for free.

Step 2: If you decide to do it yourself you can drill the idler and pitman arm holes using a hand drill with the arms still on the vehicle (not recommended), or you can pull them off and do it in a drill press or a vise (I recommend doing this). 5/8" drill bits are available from hardware stores and big box retailers like Northern Tool or Tractor Supply. You are enlarging the stock tapered hole to 5/8" to receive the new grade 8 bolts. This is a much more difficult task than drilling thinner steel with a smaller bit. With bits larger than 1/2" you really have to turn the bit slowly or you will overheat it and ruin it in no time. It's really best to pull off the arms and drill them out using a drill press at low RPM. If you just run the 5/8" bit through using a standard single speed 1/2" hand drill at full speed you WILL burn up your bit before you can drill both holes. If you aren't comfortable doing this then plan on pulling the arms and taking them to the local machine shop or mechanic.

Install the new centerlink

Step 1: If you removed the pitman and idler arms, replace them now.

Step 2: Place the new centerlink ends above the idler and pitman arms and drop both bolts down through one washer each and through the centerlink end and the idler and pitman holes.

Step 3: Slide the remaining two washers over the bolts and tighten the castle nuts. You will need to torque these castle nuts down at least 150 ft. lbs.

Step 4: IMPORTANT insert the cotter pins through the castle nut slots and through the 1/8" hole which is predrilled through the bolt, and then bend the long part of the cotter pin back over the end of the bolt, to ensure that the centerlink bolts cannot loosen.

Step 5: Insert the tie rod ends into the centerlink through the bottom, torque them down, and replace their cotter pins. If the taper is reversed and they will not insert from the bottom, flip the centerlink over.

Congratulations, you are finished. Take the vehicle in for an alignment and enjoy!

 

Please email me with any questions!

Edited July 20, 2007 by hoohaa

[Precise1]

Fair enough.

 

What DO you do to the centerlink though? Description and photos would probably generate much more interest. Install requirements/modifications? Warranty?

 

Good job, I tip my hat to anyone who makes parts for enthusiasts, but I think you need to elaborate before anyone who doesn't know you personally will order.

 

B

[Slick]

welp, he is making me one right now.. so i can do a cheesy write up and tell y'all how "hard" it is to install. lol! here is a linky tot he TK-1, if I'm not mistaken, i also have a linky to a pic of one of his actual CL's. lemme go hunting.......

i am sure he won't mind me posting this from a pm to me, but here's a small explanation of how it's made:

 

It's actually not hard to build them at all. The only problem is that you have to machine out a sleeve to accept the spherical bearings. Unless you have a lathe it's pretty expensive to have done at a shop. I had to build one for myself, so I had a machine shop bore out a number of sleeves to the proper ID and thickness on their lathe. It just didn't make sense for me to buy two sleeves, since the more you buy the cheaper per piece they tend to be. I ended up with quite a few of these sleeves and that's why I've been building center links.

 

The hard part of the process is cutting and grinding away all of that forged steel. It's pretty hard stuff, and it takes a few solid hours of grinding to get one ready. I think the time it takes to get set up to build these (going around to all the machine shops to get quotes... doing the grinding, ordering the parts, etc.) is what deters most people from doing it themselves. That and it's pretty cheap to buy from one of the CL manufacturers in the community. I guess it is some rather technical welding as well, most folks that haven't done lots of welding probably shouldn't try to tackle a CL.

 

write up about CL's..... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...p;p=entry

[Precise1]

The hard part of the process is cutting and grinding away all of that forged steel. It's pretty hard stuff, and it takes a few solid hours of grinding to get one ready.

 

1.) Grind or Machine the weld off of the top until you see a line indicating where the parts separate.

 

The maching requires a boring head and a mill to do, also it must be properly centered and square. Unless you have the proper equipment and machining knowledge let a machinist do it for you.

 

The pictures were dead links so I can't see exactly what he means.

One is curious why grinding for hours is preferable to milling since it seems necessary regardless?

 

you have to machine out a sleeve to accept the spherical bearings.

 

Why is a sleeve necessary if the bearing journal is precision machined?

 

Just trying to understand. Thanks.

 

B

[hoohaa]

The pictures were dead links so I can't see exactly what he means.

One is curious why grinding for hours is preferable to milling since it seems necessary regardless?

 

 

 

Why is a sleeve necessary if the bearing journal is precision machined?

 

Just trying to understand. Thanks.

 

B

 

You are confusing the original TK1 mod with the modern mod which completely removes the old ball joint ends. My CLs have completely new sleeves that replace the old ball joint. These sleeves have spherical bearings pressed into them. This mod is also done to both sides of the centerlink, different than the original TK1 mod.

 

Guys, this is not really a "how-to" thread on centerlink mods. This is a thread in which I am offering a service. If you want info on how to build your own CL then that's great, and I will help you, but let's talk about that in a different thread. The only special tools required to install one of my centerlinks are a 5/8" drill bit and a drill. You will need to drill out the idler arm and pitman arm holes to 5/8" and then simply bolt up the centerlink with the included hardware: two bolts, two castle nuts, and two cotter pins. The pitman and idler can be drilled out either on or off of the vehicle. Personally I took mine off and drilled them out on a vise.

 

I'm not very active on this board, but I have been involved in the Nissan community for a number of years now. I was active for a couple years over on the AC board, but now I like to hang out over at my local club's board. Also, I've got a couple "vouches" regarding my centerlinks from people over on the "Aftermarket Corner" section of N4W if you don't know who I am.

 

I will be building a CL for Slick soon so you guys can hear a report from someone you are more familiar with.

[Precise1]

You are confusing the original TK1 mod with the modern mod

 

Yes, obviously I was. Sorry, I was not trying to make this a how to thread, but a discription/picure of a major front end component modification seemed appropriate. *shrug*

 

B

[Simon]

I have one of, I assume, Hoohaa's first Centerlinks, and I will "vouch" for it's quality. Top notch work, VERY comparable to L&.as I've seen them both up close and personal.

[TrailChaser]

Bryan is a good friend of mine,(outside the internet) and I personally vouch for anything he makes.

 

Edited to say: This CL is one he made a long time ago. The new ones come with cotter pins and castle nuts.(not pictured)

 

Here's a pic of the first one he made back in Dec. 05.

 

 

 

 

David

Edited April 26, 2007 by TrailChaser

[LD50]

how about cotter pins for the bottom of those all important bolts on the CL?

[Simon]

His CL's come with Cotter pins......the initial one did not. When I bought mine from him, I had to drill out the bolt myself. No big deal. Castle nut, and cotter pins were provided.

[Casey.T]

*looks in Wallet..... its empty atm.....

[vengeful]

I wheeled with Bryan a couple years ago at a NOAS run...absolutely top notch guy.

[TrailChaser]

Those pics are from back in the day. Like Simon says.(I used to luv that game) They now come with pins and castle nuts. I just wanted everyone to see one of his CL's before someone posted this... :worthless:

[hoohaa]

Those pics are from back in the day. Like Simon says.(I used to luv that game) They now come with pins and castle nuts. I just wanted everyone to see one of his CL's before someone posted this... :worthless:

 

Thanks David, Simon and Dan for the kind words and thanks David for digging up those pictures.

 

And Precise1 I wasn't trying to be snappy there, you are absolutely right, I should have posted pictures of what I am talking about.

 

As David and Simon stated, the new CLs do come with cotter pins. Actually they come with the bolts predrilled to the correct length, Simon's went out before I spent some time getting the right measurements to be able to drill the bolt out. Sorry about that Simon.

[Simon]

Thanks David, Simon and Dan for the kind words and thanks David for digging up those pictures.

 

And Precise1 I wasn't trying to be snappy there, you are absolutely right, I should have posted pictures of what I am talking about.

 

As David and Simon stated, the new CLs do come with cotter pins. Actually they come with the bolts predrilled to the correct length, Simon's went out before I spent some time getting the right measurements to be able to drill the bolt out. Sorry about that Simon.

 

Not a problem. Was easy enough to do myself.

[94extreme]

Bryan is a good friend of mine,(outside the internet) and I personally vouch for anything he makes.

 

Edited to say: This CL is one he made a long time ago. The new ones come with cotter pins and castle nuts.(not pictured)

 

Here's a pic of the first one he made back in Dec. 05.

David

 

 

looks to me like someone ought to make a jig for the CL before trying to weld it back together.

[hoohaa]

looks to me like someone ought to make a jig for the CL before trying to weld it back together.

 

Whatcha getting at?

[94extreme]

in the pic it looks like your pieces aren't exactly in the same plane.

[hoohaa]

in the pic it looks like your pieces aren't exactly in the same plane.

 

Hmm, which pieces are you referring to? I am surprised that you think you can see a difference in that low quality picture. FYI I do use a jig.

[94extreme]

ok, no problemo.

[Kn0xville]

I have never seen evidence that this is necessary. In fact, everything I have seen and experienced points to the TREs being the weak point. The TREs will act as a fuse and will break/bend WAY before you run into the kind of forces that require double sheer pitmans and idlers.

 

I dont really agree with that..but the CL looks good from the pic, is there any difference from yours and L&P's? Now that L&P isnt around anymore, it wont matter, but they had a great name for their products, with a great guarentee. Just curious how yours compares?

[hoohaa]

I dont really agree with that..but the CL looks good from the pic, is there any difference from yours and L&P's? Now that L&P isnt around anymore, it wont matter, but they had a great name for their products, with a great guarentee. Just curious how yours compares?

 

I could be dead wrong about this. I make this statement because I have NEVER seen a CL with these mods break. I have only seen TREs break used in conjunction with this CL design, which tells me that the TREs are the weakest link in the system. I will not offer a product that I don't feel is necessary. It would be unethical for me to do so. If you can show me evidence of properly designed and built modded CLs breaking or pitmans or idlers breaking because of shear forces used in conjunction with these CLs then I might consider offering double shear bracing. If I am wrong please present the evidence. I'm not being sarcastic either, I really do want to know if people are experiencing breakage from shear forces on this setup.

 

I have deliberately chosen not to have a "guarantee policy" spelled out. When you buy from me I will take care of you. I stand behind what I do 100%. I believe I have a good reputation in the community and people trust me. I don't burn people and I don't take advantage of people. I'm just a guy making CLs for folks. I started out just making CLs for friends because L&P was trying to run a business. Now that CLs aren't available from L&P I offer them to the whole community.

[GrimGreg]

I believe I have a good reputation in the community and people trust me. I don't burn people and I don't take advantage of people.

 

 

I for one don't trust you one bit.

[hoohaa]

I for one don't trust you one bit.

 

I love you too.

Edited April 29, 2007 by hoohaa

[88pathoffroad]

wtf...?

 

IMHO, the idler arm side needs reinforcement with a frame-mounted brace at least. I've bent the idler pivot before without a brace.