vf24renegade Posted November 28, 2018 Share Posted November 28, 2018 Quote Quote Quote 55 minutes ago, Cuong Nguyen said: It's attached to the power steering bracket. 12mm Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Thanks! I found it after clearing away enough oil and dirt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sassafrasparilla Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 On 10/21/2016 at 4:44 PM, k9sar said: what stud? lol. no, the stud is there for the tensioner spring. no roller. Hello k9sar, Is this your engine? Did the stud for the tensioner spring sheer off? What is all the the black fluff from???? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 Hi Everyone, I have potentially a dumb question. I am getting ready to change my timing belt. It will be the biggest item I have done to date and I want to make sure I know everything before I start. On the VG30E I know you need a crank puller to take the harmonic balancer off but do you need to take all the bolts off as well or just the big crank pulley bolt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 The bolt in the middle is the only one holding the balancer to the crank. The little bolts hold the crank pulley to the balancer. Mark the orientation of the crank pulley to the balancer before removing it so you don't put it back together in a different orientation and lose your ignition timing marks! It's been a while but I think I removed all the bolts, got the pulley out of the way, and then bolted the duck's foot puller to the balancer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 On 1/12/2021 at 3:11 AM, Slartibartfast said: The bolt in the middle is the only one holding the balancer to the crank. The little bolts hold the crank pulley to the balancer. Mark the orientation of the crank pulley to the balancer before removing it so you don't put it back together in a different orientation and lose your ignition timing marks! It's been a while but I think I removed all the bolts, got the pulley out of the way, and then bolted the duck's foot puller to the balancer. Thanks for the reply! I guess I am unclear as to the reason for taking them apart. Unless I am missing something, it seems like it would be better to keep them bolted together and just remove both as a whole? As for the timing marks, don't you align them with the mark on the cover and there is a key on the crank to keep the marks aligned so as long as they are set correctly before you remove them they should install them same way? Sorry if I am asking the same question over again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 It was a while ago that I did mine, so I don't remember, but I probably separated them just in case the pulley caused a clearance issue on the way out, or in case I dropped it, or to inspect the rubber part of the balancer. I don't remember bothering to separate them again when I took it all back apart to replace the crank seal I skipped the first time. (Don't skip the crank seal.) If you don't remove the pulley from the balancer, then yeah, the keyway means the crank and balancer only go back together one way and your timing marks will be in the same place when you're done as when you started. If you do remove the pulley from the balancer, those two aren't keyed to each other, so you can install the pulley the wrong way around on the balancer if you're not careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trenton163 Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Slartibartfast said: It was a while ago that I did mine, so I don't remember, but I probably separated them just in case the pulley caused a clearance issue on the way out, or in case I dropped it, or to inspect the rubber part of the balancer. I don't remember bothering to separate them again when I took it all back apart to replace the crank seal I skipped the first time. (Don't skip the crank seal.) If you don't remove the pulley from the balancer, then yeah, the keyway means the crank and balancer only go back together one way and your timing marks will be in the same place when you're done as when you started. If you do remove the pulley from the balancer, those two aren't keyed to each other, so you can install the pulley the wrong way around on the balancer if you're not careful. I see, thanks for the clarification! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan.NY Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Great thread. I’m getting ready to replace my water pump and found this a great resource. I have a 27mm 12 point socket and am wondering should I use this for my crankshaft pulley nut Or... should I get a 6pt? Timing belt was changed 10 years and 100k ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 I did mine with a twelve-point. Unless the bolt head is chewed up, I'd expect the twelve to work just fine. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan.NY Posted April 11, 2021 Share Posted April 11, 2021 Making headway. My impact wrench arrived which simplified removing the harmonic balancer bolt immensely. I’m now trying to figure how to remove the gear that is behind the balancer, as I want to replace the camshaft seal.. I see no way to remove this. How to? I think I may have nicked the passenger side cam shaft when removing the seal there. I’m assuming there is nothing that can be done except high grit light sand and praying to ones favorite deity? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuong Nguyen Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 It's held in place by a woodruff key like the crank pulley. I'm figuring you already have the belt off and what not so you can spray it with some penetrating lubricant and some light taps should work it loose....or wedge something behind it and leverage it out a bit. It's been a while since I've done it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slartibartfast Posted April 13, 2021 Share Posted April 13, 2021 A little spray lube and gentle tapping sounds like a good call if it's stuck. Been a while for me too, but I think mine just pulled off by hand. If the nick is enough to catch a nail on, then yeah, try to knock down the high spot without chewing up the metal around it. If you can't catch a nail on it, I would leave it alone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
commodorehat Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I successfully changed my first timing belt/water pump/drive belts/cam and crank shaft seals thanks in large part to the info here. I'll share some tips from it here that I put on the npora facebook group a few weeks ago: My first timing belt replacement is done. Pathy runs smoothly. Replaced timing belt, water pump, cam and crankshaft seals, coolant hoses, and drive belts. Here are a few tips for anyone who tries this in the future... The 1A auto YouTube tutorial on R50s is superb. Following it will set you right - https://youtu.be/awjqoFUUPSo?si=6Avjp9Q6ivaIk-UO the Nissan repair manual is good to have as well. (get it on the NICO Club forum) Use the OEM crankshaft seal. I went through 3 seals because the inner lip would get caught on the shaft and fold under. The Nissan seal was built better (and pre-lubed) The harmonic balance puller is fantastic for pulling the crank pulley right off. I bought a kit for like 20 bucks on Amazon (you can also get a loaner from the autoparts store), and got the bolts for it at the hardware store (m6 x 1.0 x 75mm - same size as the long upper left bolt in the lower timing cover) An impact wrench is key. Used it for getting off/on the crankshaft bolt and the cam bolts without turning the shafts. I also used a camshaft holder tool once the belt was off. I debated on whether to remove the air compressor like the video suggests or try to jimmy the timing cover off around it. I was able to get the timing cover off with some work, but getting it on was tougher, and scary (I didn't want to break my A/C or mess with my timing bel. Moving the compressor was easier than I thought. The power steering tensioner bolt was a PITA because of where it was located. a 12mm ratcheting wrench would've been nice Tighten your belts. The first time I turned on the engine it was like the loudest chalkboard screech I've ever heard. Finally, there's a right-angle coolant hose that sits behind the timing belt cover that's a PITA to get off/on. I ended up having success using a chisel to pry it on. Make sure the clamp tabs aren't facing out when you put the timing cover back on, or it can bend the cover, possibly interfering with the belt. I of course read this in the repair manual after the cover and cam sprockets were back on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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