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How to change your timing belt!


5523Pathfinder
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thanks to everyone on the forum,this write up really helped, i changed my girlfriend's timing belt with 193k miles, can't believe it didn't snap, had to do it twice because the waterpump i replaced was leaking

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  • 7 months later...

Great write up! I remember the first time I replaced something more serious than a headlight on a car (my water pump), and I was terrified I was going to somehow blow up my motor in the process. Having a good guide makes everything easier. I do have a question though, and I apologize if it's been answered elsewhere but an hour and a half of thread searching and googling hasn't given me a clear answer.

 

Are the timing belts from the VG30 and VG33 interchangeable? As near as I can tell, the motors are largely the same (save for bore and water pathing), but the camshaft and crankshaft sprocket tooth profiles are different. This would lead me to believe that the belts for each motor are marginally different in design, if not in tooth count/length. I ask this because, before my WD21 was stolen, I purchased a new timing belt and hadn't gotten around to installing it. Now that I have an R50 of unknown mechanical heritage, I plan to hit the timing belt and all related goodies for safe measure. If I can use the belt I have, great. If not, I'll have one to toss up in the For Sale section.

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  • 2 months later...

I'm the original owner of a 94 WD21 with the VG30E.

 

The timing belt was last changed 65k miles ago, but that was 10 years ago with mostly city driving.

 

I need to take her into my mechanic to have new valve cover seals put in. Even though the timing belt doesn't have 105k miles on it yet, would it be prudent to replace the belt now that 10 years have gone by?

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I bought a 1995 Pathy 3 years ago with 96K miles on it and there was no reason to think the T-belt had been changed, so it was a 14 year old belt @ 96k miles. I changed it and it looked fine. Some age cracking in between the teeth, but no damage or evidence of seperation what so ever. I could have run it longer, but I was paranoid about it due to it's age. I suspect your climate is close to mine here in Santa Rosa so that shouldn't be an issue either. I suspect you'd be alright for a while yet, but it's hard to say 'ignore it, no problem'.

 

The issue here is that most of the cost of having the timing belt is labor and replacing the valve cover gaskets isn't work that is in the same area and overlapping so a timing belt change would still be full cost. Also some people like to replace all related items so no additional work should need be done there until the next T-belt replacement. These items would be thermostat, water pump, bypass hose, cam seals and crank seal. This obviously costs more...

 

Have you tried tightening down the valve cover screws? Gaskets shrink and screws loosen, often all it takes is snugging things back down...

 

B

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Great feedback, much appreciated. Think I'll put on another 20k miles before reconsidering the timing belt & associated maintenance.

 

Good suggestion on the valve covers too. All the screws on the right cover are easily accessible so I'll tighten those down and see if the oil leakage goes away.

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  • 4 weeks later...

 

hi there i have a 92 pathfinder and when doing the timming belt i get everything lined up all the marks but the crank mark cuz i cant find it on the pan..when i go to turn iy over it will start but sounds like a tractor..then when i go to look at the belt again the marks are now like 4 teeth off every time i turn it over they move from the marks??/

do ya have any ideas i can try to get this running proper....

did u tighten up the belt Tensioner before you started cranking it? Also i would turn it over gently by hand with the crank bolt and see if is interfering before i cranked it in the truck. tractor sound = bad. bent valves r no fun for anyone. :excl: hmm well maybe the machine shop, but thats about it. hehe. gl with ur project

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  • 3 months later...

Hello - great info here!

I have a questions regarding installing TBelt and setting the cam/crank timing marks on a '96 3.3L Pathfinder.

Here's my situation: Before removing the timing belt, I marked each cam mark position on the belt (40 teeth seperation). Due to a senior moment, I neglicted to mark the crank location and I did not match cam marks to marks on rear TBelt cover!

I transferred the belt/cam marks to new belt accurately and attempted to install belt. Marks are off (by 3 or 4 fewer teeth) between cam sprockets and I presume one or both sprockets moved. I know passenger-side sprocket moved clockwise but not sure other sprocket moved. Crank has not moved. Crank key/slot is at 2 o'clock and crank mark is at 7 o'clock,. No visible matching mark on housing surrounding crank. Also it appears achieving 43 teeth between cam and crank marks will be difficult.

Should I try turning the pass-side cam sprocket counter-clockwise to achieve 40 teeth seperation? How would you recommend I proceed at this point?

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Well, considering that you did not properly line up the cam marks and they have moved, and the new belt does not line up correctly, I would follow the FSM procedure for a total off-time alignment/installation. I believe it has been covered in the previous pages or in another thread, but you can go to the Garage section where there is a Pinned thread of where to get your free copy of the FSM. I would recommend doing this regardless of if you use it for this application.

 

 

 

 

According to rockauto they are the same from 93-2000. The older ones had square teeth but the 93+ are round.

 

If you look on the Gates site it lists 60k all the way to 95. I think my buddies 93 is a 60k, but I know my 94 is a 105k.

From what I understand, early 93s have square teeth, late 93s have round teeth. I thought someone posted the cut off date but I can't recall it and there have been a few members who were fooled and wound up with the wrong parts. My suggestion if you have a 93 is to look first...

 

B

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Downloaded the FSM - thanks. Poured through them and threads here. Not sure how/what to do in my case (T-Belt removed w/o aligning cam marks and Cam sprockets moved).

Am considering the following and would appreciate any/all feedback.

 

Given that: 1) Cam sprocket(s) moved clockwise no more than 1/4 turn and, 2) Crank has not moved --

 

Can I install the T-Belt starting at the Crank mark, and moving counterclockwise, rotate the L Cam Sprocket to provide distance of 43 teeth (between crank/cam marks) then rotate R Cam Sprocket to provide distance of 40 teeth between the Cam marks?

Cam Sprockets would have to be rotated Counterclockwise.

 

really need help on this...

Please let me know if I'm posting incorrectly.

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I don't feel comfortable walking you through it as I have not done it myself from mis-alignment. I think you have to line up the cam pulleys to the marks on the rear cover and then verify TDC with the crank, but wait for better info from someone else. I recommend that you start your own thread in the Garage section and copy/paste your posts here into it so people have the full story.

 

 

Round tooth belt it is. He has a '96 3.3L old man!

Yes, but I was trying to address the 93+=round tooth misinformation. Not ALL '93s have round tooth belts/pulleys, the change was made some time during the year IIRC.

 

Yes, I'm old, I have a pony tail and a cane. Which would you like to be beaten with? :tongue:

 

B

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Pull plug #1 and put it at tdc by hand cranking the crank with the crank bolt and wrench...I use a clothes hanger or weld wire in #1 to find tdc

 

Next carefully rotate the cams (much easier if you follow the fsm andloosen the rocker arms then I get the belt on everything (tensioner last and put it on about 1/2 way...the trick is to only get about 1/2" of belt on each pulley and then slide it all in together BC if u go too far in on 1 u won't get it on...at that point check the crank to cam and the cam to cam and be sure u have ure 43/40 split...if not figure out which you need to fix and slide the belt off enough the 1 to rotate it and slide the belt back on..

 

Basically just setting time from step 1 BC I know all of the blocks I've used don't have the tdc mark on the oil pump housing so I just set #1 to tdc by the indicator (hangar or weld wire )

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  • 5 weeks later...

Thanks to all for the info.. I have a 97 R50 and the manual says to change the belt every 100.000kms (60.000mi) I changed mine with 110.000kms and the old belt is perfect. I also changed the water pump (Its the original that came with the truck) that was in perfect shape too... But you never know until you take all apart. BTW I put a new Gates belt.

 

I had only one problem. When I first started her, it began to leak coolant from below the lower timing cover. I let her warm, stopped and when I came today to take all apart again to correct the leak, I started her again and no leak ???? It's supposed to be normal or maybe the gasket needed to settle with some heat???

 

Sorry for my poor english!!

 

Diego from Argentina

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Yes, better safe than sorry when it comes to the timing belt!

 

I don't know why it would leak and then stop unless you had a puddle somewhere that you didn't notice that spilled when you started/moved the vehicle. The only other option I can think of is that you dont have enough coolant in the system to build up proper pressure and leak again.

 

How much did it leak? Just a little/few drops or was there a stream? It came from below or behind the lower cover?

 

I hate to tell you to take it all apart again, but I wouldn't feel good about not checking either. Also it is not good for the belt to get coolant on it as it can degrade the belt.

 

Try to answer my questions and lets hear some other input, I have only changed the timing belt twice and might be missing something.

 

You english is quite good and mucho mejor than my spanish!

 

B

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  • 3 months later...

 

Hi All.

Any tips on getting the new belt on? I've done the timing belt on other makes but never had one that is this tight.

I can get the marks lined up and the belt on the lower sprocket and one of the uppers but just no way to get the belt on the 3rd sprocket.

I have tried partiallly lining up on each sprocket and trying to slide on but it seems like the belt is just too short. I checked the number & its a Gates T249 133 tooth so should be the correct one.

Am I making this too difficult? I've tried moving the tensioner, removing it, etc. There is just no give in the belt and it just won't go.

Any hints or help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks to all for the info.. I have a 97 R50 and the manual says to change the belt every 100.000kms (60.000mi) I changed mine with 110.000kms and the old belt is perfect. I also changed the water pump (Its the original that came with the truck) that was in perfect shape too... But you never know until you take all apart. BTW I put a new Gates belt.

 

I had only one problem. When I first started her, it began to leak coolant from below the lower timing cover. I let her warm, stopped and when I came today to take all apart again to correct the leak, I started her again and no leak ???? It's supposed to be normal or maybe the gasket needed to settle with some heat???

 

Sorry for my poor english!!

 

Diego from Argentina

When I bought my water pump the instructions said it would leak for a little bit until the gasket set in. If that helps.
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Hi All.

Any tips on getting the new belt on? I've done the timing belt on other makes but never had one that is this tight.

I can get the marks lined up and the belt on the lower sprocket and one of the uppers but just no way to get the belt on the 3rd sprocket.

I have tried partiallly lining up on each sprocket and trying to slide on but it seems like the belt is just too short. I checked the number & its a Gates T249 133 tooth so should be the correct one.

Am I making this too difficult? I've tried moving the tensioner, removing it, etc. There is just no give in the belt and it just won't go.

Any hints or help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

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Yup took your advice already on hitting the marks with white out. Tried that method already and no luck, I'll go try some more since you say that's the right way.

Backing the tensioner up you mean fully turning it clockwise and locking it right? Can you go too far clockwise and cause it to reapply tension in that direction?

This is my first time doing more than a starter so just trying to make sure I'm not missing something simple, thanks for the help and the great thread has been a valuable resource

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