dfather99 Posted December 3, 2004 Share Posted December 3, 2004 88 you should do a write on the installation of your second batter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 3, 2004 Author Share Posted December 3, 2004 There's nothing to tell, I simply added the battery box, screwed it down to the floor, dumped the battery in, and bolted a couple of short battery cables up to the subwoofer amp wiring. I already had all the cable in place to the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardwaretoad Posted December 4, 2004 Share Posted December 4, 2004 Are you using an isolator between the 2 batteries ? I'm assuming (ya, I know) you are for charging purposes. Did you just use a "generic" kit, or fab something up yourself ? -study- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 4, 2004 Author Share Posted December 4, 2004 Oh yeah, I forgot. I added a battery isolator up front on the fenderwell with the alternator charging cable feeding both batteries. I used a generic kinda blue anodized isolator. It cost like $25 at the local auto parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted October 23, 2005 Share Posted October 23, 2005 I installed the 125A alternator from a 2001 Quest into my R50...here's my writeup. Unfortunately I have no pictures available for this, as I had left my camera at school when I performed this. I'll try to be as detailed as possible. If you have any questions, you can IM me on AIM at Find4Path. If you run aftermarket stereo equipment or off-road lights, then you should definitely perform this mod. It is actually quite simple to do if you have a power drill and grinder. Air tools help A LOT! Parts Necessary: - 125A Quest Alternator (2000-2003) - 5/8" washers (total thickness about 1/4" Tools Necessary: - 12 mm Socket - 12 mm Box End Wrench - 14 mm Socket - 21 mm (Impact) Socket - Strap wrench or similar device to hold pulley in place while loosening/tightening. - 3/8" Drive Ratchet - 1/2" Drive Ratchet - 3/8" Drive Air-Ratchet - 1/2" Drive Impact Wrench - Power Drill - 17/32" Drill Bit - 4" Power Angle Grinder - Service Manual of some sort Other Recommended Items: - Mechanix Brand or similar Gloves - Duct Tape - Band-Aids - Battery/Alternator Testing Tool ($9 at Advance) - Channel Lock Pliars The first step to successful completion of this modification is to source a working Quest/Villager alternator. I found mine for $35 at a local junkyard. If you go this route, be sure you have it bench tested at 2 different places. Most reputable junkyards will take back a non-working alternator that they sold as working, if you have documentation that it is not performing properly from bench testing. Secondly, before I dive into the steps, you need to be certain that you are capable of performing this operation. It was the single most physically painful job I have ever performed while working on any of my cars, and I've pulled motors and complete drivetrains without the help of a lift. The alternator weighs upwards of 25-30lbs, so you need to be sure you can hold that weight steady for extended periods of time while attempting to line up the bolt holes. Ok, here we go. Steps: 1. Disconnect the battery ground. 2. Loosen the tension on the alternator belt by using the adjustment bolt for the idler pulley located to the right of the alternator. If you have access to air tools, you might want to use them for this step. The rotation on the adjustment bolt is opposite of what you would think. To loosen tension, "tighten" the bolt. This brings the idler/tensioner up and removes the tension in the belt. Once the belt is sufficiently loose, slide it off the pulley, while being careful not to damage it. The adjustment bolt is 12mm. 3. Disconnect all wires from the alternator. Be careful not to damage the plastic clip of the harness or the rubber boot on the output cable. You may need to spray PB on the ground wire screw to get it loose. I had to use Channel Lock Pliars to remove the screw, because my screw drivers stripped it. The nut holding the output wire on is 12mm. 4. Unbolt the bottom (long) bolt from the alternator housing. If you have access to air tools, you may want to use them for this step. The radiator hoses tend to get in the way, but you can push them off to the side while you unbolt it, however, be careful not to rip or puncture it. 5. Support the alternator from the side. 6. Unbolt the top bolt. The alternator will want to fall onto the crossmember and damage the pulley. If the pulley has the slightest knick in it, it can cause damage to your belt. 7. Once you get everything disconnected and unbolted, it is time to remove the alternator from the engine bay. However, I learned the hard way that this is easier said than done. If you rotate the alternator so the bolt tabs are closer to the motor, and pull it out pulley first through the gap by the battery, it'll wiggle out eventually. Don't be afriad to put some force on it, but be careful not to damage anything in the process. 8. Now remove the pulley from the Pathfinder Alternator. You'll have to chuck it somehow so it doesn't rotate when you go to loosen the nut holding it on. Do the same on the Quest alternator. The Pathfinder pulley has 5 ridges, the Quest only has 4, so it will not work with the Pathfinder belt. The nut from the Pathfinder alternator will not work on the Quest, and the Pathfinder pulley is narrower at the base than the Quest. Slide the Pathfinder pulley onto the shaft, and slide the 5/8" washers on as well. You'll need enough washers to completely cover the shaft up to where the threads begin, otherwise the pulley will be loose. Hand tighten the Quest nut, and chuck the pulley. Then torque it down. 9. The prep work is almost complete. However, the holes for the bolts on the Quest alternator are not large enough to accomodate the bolts on the Pathfinder. You will have to drill them out using a 17/32" drill bit. However, be sure you cover the open vents on the alternator with duct tape before grinding or drilling on the alternator to avoid metal shavings/chips from entering and potentially damaging your alternator. 10. Once you get the holes reamed out, you'll have to grind down the tabs slightly so the bolts can sufficiently pass through them and have enough threads to hold the alternator in place. 11. Installation is the same as removal, but the Quest alternator is heavier and slightly larger than the Pathfinder alt. Also, be sure you tighten the hell out of the output wire nut, otherwise you'll run into the problem I ran into. You might want to pad your palm before doing this because you'll need to put some serious torque on it to get it to connect properly. Be sure you do not reconnect your battery until EVERYTHING is complete and properly connected, tightened. Did you remember to screw in the ground wire? The Problems and Tips: I had failed to sufficiently tighten the nut on the output wire, and when I tried to start the truck, it would arc, and cause the failsafe to kill the electrical system. After a few seconds it would reset, and after numerous tries, I was ready to shoot something. Well, I realized that the nut wasn't as tight as it should be when I started tightening it with the battery connected (oh yeah, NEVER DO THAT), and it sparked like hell and shocked the living crap out of my arm. Have you ever had 14VDC shoot through a steel wrench into your arm? Yeah, it hurts. Also, when I had first swapped the pulleys, the Quest alternator rolled off my workbench onto the floor and bent the pulley. Be VERY VERY careful with the pulley as they are $76 from the dealer, and the dealer is the ONLY place that will sell you just the pulley. Be ready to have to use plenty of PB Oil if your truck has seen some life. Nissan likes to put all sorts of little sharp plastic clippies all over the engine bay in the most inopportune spots. I suggest you wear long sleeves and gloves to avoid painful, and often blood spilling injuries. I recieve more little cuts trying to get that damn alternator out than I have recieved in all my working on a car combined...well, except that time I kicked the windshield out of my VW Rabbit....but that's another story. Be extra careful when tightening down the output wire cable nut, as your wrench can easily slip off the nut and smash your hand firmly against the frame extension rail. I've got a nice black and red thumb and nail thanks to that one. Have plenty of light to work with. I suggest picking up a 500/1000W Work Light from Sears. They only run about $30-$40 and are absolutely invaluable for any garage or shadetree mechanic. Well, that's about it. If you have any questions feel free to IM me at Find4Path on AIM. Good luck with your swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 24, 2005 Share Posted October 24, 2005 Hey V, do you want to post this as an independant write up, makes sense to me... I can split it off if you want. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulsPath Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 (edited) Argh!! I just removed my alternator and reinstalled it. Now I cannot find where the small wire goes. Ive attached the plug and the larger wire with the rubber cover. I had someone remove the alternator for me and I wasnt paying attention when he took the smaller wire off. I know stupid me. So does anyone know where the smaller wire is screwed on. I assume its in the back but I can only feel around on the back and do not feel the small little stud it would go on. Any pointers are appreciated. I really dont feel like taking this alternator back off. Thanks, Paul Edited September 16, 2006 by PaulsPath Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 Hey Paul. My ground lead is bolted on one of the shorter body screws. directly 9 oclock if you are looking at the back of the alt. On the back of mine there is also a short stud with washer and nut at 7 oclock. I'm betting that is where it should go, but it doesn't seem to matter that much, as mine works fine. The point is just a good ground. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SuperSon Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Modifying the alternator like that would it void the warranty from the auto parts store or Junkyard? Im planning on installing one where my AC comp is since I dont have AC . I wonder if it will change the angle of the tensioning bracket so it doesnt have to be grounded down :idea: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Law69 Posted November 15, 2007 Share Posted November 15, 2007 I hope that all is well, but i need to know if this would work for a '91 path as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaturaTek Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 Hey 88path and others who upgraded the alternator...are your alternators still running strong till this day? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted December 24, 2007 Author Share Posted December 24, 2007 Law69: Sure. I put one on MaritimeMan's rig and it's a 93 IIRC. NaturaTak: Sure is. Works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pathmaker1 Posted February 14, 2008 Share Posted February 14, 2008 bump and i will be going with this 160A alternator in a few weeks. should be a direct bolt-on for $220 brand spankin new with an optional $100 lifetime warranty. im goin the ez route with a few more amps http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...4.cWAT.m240.lVI one question tho. it says 100A at idle.....when is it 160A? are alternator amp ratings at idle speed? if so i may reconsider as i am going with a dual battery setup for my lights, winch, 15A power invertor, air compressor, and stereo system. as you can see im gonna need some POWER!!! may have to go with 2 extra batteries but im not sure yet. Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgorski Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 will this mod work for my 87 pathy or is it for new pathys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted December 14, 2008 Share Posted December 14, 2008 Sure will, I did it on my 88 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Pathmaker Posted March 17, 2009 Share Posted March 17, 2009 Does anyone know if the 125amp from a 96-00 Quest will fit? 110 will be enough for subs, lights and an e-fan but I found a 125 for $10 tested with a warranty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted June 3, 2010 Share Posted June 3, 2010 what is the problem with leaving the adjusting bracket the stock length? Does it put the alt out to far away from the engine? I swapped a 110 amp alt from a Maxima into my 90 sentra, talk about little room!! All I did as far as the adjusting bracket, ( the maxima alt looks similar) was cut a short pc. of metal about 1/4" thick, I curved the bottom where it sits on the Alt and bolted it to the one mounting tab that is in a different spot than the factory alt, what that did was put the new mounting tab close to where the factory one was. It is working fine, only problem in the Sentra is I have very little adjustment as the alt is almost touching an AC line. Oh the 96 maxima alt comes in either 110 or 125 amps and I got mine on a half price day for only $10 here is the maxima alt for comparison: front of the maxima alt 125 amp: rear of maxima 125 amp: quest 110 amp: looks like the maxima mounting tab is on the opposite side, may work better with the factory adjuster but hard to tell from the pics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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