MONTPATHY Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 Any tips or tricks for getting at all the plugs, especially the one in the back behind the engine? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bear claw Posted September 19, 2006 Share Posted September 19, 2006 I like to blow compress air in the hole before unscrewing and another shot just before the last threads are comepletely out. A rubber hose is good to put it back in sometimes, without danger of cross threading That's it good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTPATHY Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 the biggest problem i'm having is the one in the back, kind of bet/w the firewall and the engine. there must be a special tool of some sort, or maybe a trick? i got the other 5 changed out, and i did use compressed air to blow off the dust/dirt, just can't reach the back one w/ a socket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max_stryker Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 your truck came with a spark plug kit and everything you need to change it (check under the backseat for a black bag) otherwise, use this little contraption and slip it into here... then pop the socket on/slap a rag behind it so u dont pinch any lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuismO Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 (edited) i actually ran into this problem too when i first changed the plugs on my pathy with the vg33. if you look in the black bag where your spare tire tools are (as stryker said), there are two "tubes" with holes and a little crooked steel bar (maybe 6-10" long and about a cm in diameter). the long tube is the socket used to remove the other 5 plugs. the short tube is the socket for the plug near the firewall. and the little "bar" is bent at two points so that it can fit perfectly over the engine as you're removing or installing that plug near the firewall. hope this helps, ian Edited September 20, 2006 by QuismO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lewisnc100 Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 Pic of tools: http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/shoebo...hoto&PhotoID=26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 ***NOTE*** Stick with the factory NGK plugs (iridium or other NGK) The Bosch plats are too hot of a plug and will actually casue long term issues when you add mods like an intake. I had these in the truck and after changing to the NGK iridiums, the truck already see better mileage...granted I have cams but these are the plugs made at the OEM burn rate! (rating #5, Bosch #8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonianbrat Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 ***NOTE*** Stick with the factory NGK plugs (iridium or other NGK) The Bosch plats are too hot of a plug and will actually casue long term issues when you add mods like an intake. I had these in the truck and after changing to the NGK iridiums, the truck already see better mileage...granted I have cams but these are the plugs made at the OEM burn rate! (rating #5, Bosch #8) AWWWHH CRAP! I put AC delco platinums in my ride when I changed my t-belt like 3000 miles ago. The store I was at did not have NGK irridiums in stock. Should I be worried and go ahead and change them?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max_stryker Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 nothing to worry about id just change them out sooner than later MONT - how did you make out with this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuismO Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 ***NOTE*** Stick with the factory NGK plugs (iridium or other NGK) The Bosch plats are too hot of a plug and will actually casue long term issues when you add mods like an intake. I had these in the truck and after changing to the NGK iridiums, the truck already see better mileage...granted I have cams but these are the plugs made at the OEM burn rate! (rating #5, Bosch #8) hmmm, i'm not sure what i replaced my plugs with a while back. so i'll get better mileage with the oem ngk's eh? maybe i'll swap them out for the hell of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max_stryker Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 not to say you'd get better mpg - but nissans are a little picky when it comes to plugs. i had some bosch plat in there and i of course asked dan and he immediately suggests NGK plugs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted September 20, 2006 Share Posted September 20, 2006 I had the Bosch PT +4s in my old car, and it LOVED them. So I figured I'd try them in the Pathfinder. It pinged like a SOB and I noticed an immediate 5mpg decrease in fuel economy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONTPATHY Posted September 21, 2006 Author Share Posted September 21, 2006 Thanks for all the advice...i'm going to give it a shot when i get home tonight. I looked under my rear seat and the tools are there, wasn't sure if they would be as i bought it used 3 years ago. thanks again for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Bosch PT +4s All 3 of my 3.0's love em When I got them the sales guy was -thnkboutit- What do you need 18 plugs for on a V6???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuismO Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 I had the Bosch PT +4s in my old car, and it LOVED them. So I figured I'd try them in the Pathfinder. It pinged like a SOB and I noticed an immediate 5mpg decrease in fuel economy. i just calculated my hwy mileage to 15.83 mpg with A/C on. i'll try anything to boost my mileage, so i'll try the ngk's =P i have bosch plat's in there right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Wow, that's awful. I've got 32s, two different HO2S codes, EVAP codes, and a bunch of other emissions related problems (melted cats), and I'm getting 17.5-18mpg on the highway, and that was at 75-80mph on the way to and from Tuscon. At those speeds, whether you have the AC on or the windows down, the fuel economy is going to be pretty much the same because of the drag caused by the open windows is going to be about the same as the added load on the motor from the AC compressor. Do you have any DTCs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuismO Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 Wow, that's awful. Do you have any DTCs? hehe tell me about it. dtc's? sorry i don't know what that is =P i'm sure that my calculations are rough estimates as i used the fuel gauge to estimate how many gallons i used, and mapquest to measure the miles covered. i'm going to do a more accurate test this weekend by filling the tank, then driving to sacramento, then filling up at the destination to see how many gallons were consumed. then i'll swap the plugs with NGK's at my cousin's house in sac, and do the same calculation when i get home...hopefully i'll see some kind of rise in mileage =P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 DTC = Diagnostic trouble code - a malfunction stored in the ECM. It wouldn't necessarily trigger the MIL, but it might hurt your gas mileage. Reset the trip odometer when you fill-up. The gas gauges are NOT accurate in these trucks at all, so you cannot possibly know how many gallons have been used to accurately calculate MPG to 2 decimal places. Here's what I do. I reset my trip odometer at every fill-up. I always fill the tank completely until the automatic shutoff. I get a reciept and record the total vehicle mileage on the reciept. I use the trip odometer and average MPG I've seen over the past few fill-ups to estimate approximately at what mileage I'll need to fill up. I then record the fuel purchase into an Excel spreadsheet including, date, cost, gallons purchase, total vehicle mileage, etc.... I then calculate the MPG by dividing the miles travelled (trip odometer), by the gallons purchased. Never top-off your tank, as that will effect your calculations. It will also cause problems with the pressurized fuel system, and create problems with the EVAP system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max_stryker Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 you will know how much gas you used when you fill up dan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted September 21, 2006 Share Posted September 21, 2006 you will know how much gas you used when you fill up dan... Provided you completely fill the tank and don't prepay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 What is this "prepay" thing of which you speak? Shxt, a lot of gas stations around here can't even accept a card at the pump. And I have to stand around waiting for someone else to get to me cause I can't *legally* even touch the pump handle. It's ridiculous. On another note, NGK's work fine for me, and I use the ratchet/extension/u-joint to get to the rear plug on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 I would assume prepay means pay before you pump (then go back and get any remaining money you did not use) See that not excepting a card would screw me up, I pay almost exclusively with my debit/check card. But then there are next to no "Full Service" stations here anymore. Having lived in Oregon I know what you talking about, but in Washington they will look at you funny if you expect them to pump for you It is kind of funny watching someone from say... Oregon sit in their car waiting for an attendant to come and pump... I have even seen them get pissed and take off before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 Pre-Pay is where you take cash in to the guy in the store and say..."I want $20 (or however much) on pump #4", and then go pump it and it stops at $20, not when the tank is full. You can't accurately compute your fuel economy if you don't fill the tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 I know what prepaying is, I was being facetious. They just don't do it around here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vengeful Posted September 22, 2006 Share Posted September 22, 2006 I figured. I just use my check card. It's faster than cash, and the money comes from the same place.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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