fastskier

yup did that earlier this year. as I say - I 've had enough problems with locks - I really hope I am done.

Tried running the chains on the rear tires a couple times. It was much better - no banging and I could go when it was so deep that I was pushing snow with my bumper. However with my chains (heavy duty V style), there was some interference issues that caused me not to be able to go over 15km/hr otherwise I thought I was going to rip something off due to the metal on metal sound. And yes my chains were very tight as they have the three cams on the side plus I use heavy duty bungees. At first I noticed that they were chewing into my fender flare on both sides in the wheel well. I carved the interefering part off with a knife (you can't tell that I did anything) and tried it again. The next time I couldn't figure out what it was hitting on but I think it was the rear sway bar mount. Suffice to say I don't think my chains are meant for my pathfinder. They are still great though for emergencies when you get to the top of the road and ski all day to find 2 feet of new snow on your truck at the end of the day. Going 10 km/hr is way better than getting stuck on some desolate logging road in the middle of winter.

After taking it to the shop they determined nothing was wrong with it. I drove it for awhile and it just seemed like the ECU needed to adjust to what the engine required. This took some time. Lately I've been noticing that if I take the battery cable off the battery (which resets the ecu) my pathfinder will have a lag when accelerating from stop for awhile. It seems like it needs time for the ECU to adjust to what the engine actually needs.

Finally figured this out due to another post - turns out it is the rear latch for the rear hatch. I tried moving mine forwards (towards the windshield) but that didn't work. I then spaced it up with some 1/4 flat washers (plated) and it works like a charm. No more strobe lights at night from under my dash!! This site rocks!

As posted in other threads, the fix to this problem is usually to resolder some of the connections on the door lock control module board. Else you can change out the board for $200 at the dealer. The board is located behind the side panel in the back. Just above the rear wheel well. There are two boards there - on mine one was silver and bigger (not the one you are looking for) and the other was grey and smaller (lower and closer to the front). Confirm that it is the right one by unplugging the connector to it. When I did that all my doors locked. Anyways I took mine out last night and sure enough there were 2 pins that were missing solder. Soldered them up and reinstalled. At first I couldn't get it to lock, they would lock and then go right back up. Drove it around a bit and the locks seemed fine but then I parked and the same thing happened for about four cycles. It now seems to be working fine - hopefully it just had to reinitialize itself or something. Hopefully that's the end of the problem.

thanks guys - I pulled the master switch out and didn't even do anything and it started working again. Until it breaks again I'm not fixing it.

hmmm, I would say water pump (mine went and exhibited exact same issues) but since it was changed 30K ago... Maybe a bad seal was used?

After searching though the forum I couldn’t find anything that directly related so here goes: 94 Pathfinder SE My drivers side rear window doesn’t move. Both the drivers switch and the door switch don’t work. Window lock button is definitely not engaged since I can move all of my other windows. There are no sounds emitted or anything when the switch is held down My first plan of attack was to pull the door panel and check for power at the motor when the switch is depressed. Any other suggestions?

This is a minor issue but it’s a pain in the @ss. Basically my truck always thinks that one of my doors is open. I have checked the two front door switches and they seem fine. Before I go tearing apart my truck looking for the short has anyone come across this before?

hmmm, interesting. I have never heard of ABS being put on only the rear. It sure doesn't work that well that I can tell. But then maybe I don't miss what I can't feel. too bad it wasn't all the way around. Thanks.

I have a 94 Pathfinder SE (I think) - it has the lego wheels with 31's stock. The other day I was noticing that the ABS light came on when I started it and then turned off after a little bit. Basically like it should. My question is - does my pathy have ABS? It sure doesn't feel like it when I'm locked up sliding down the road with my studs trying to dig into something. Is there something wrong with my abs? I tried searching but I couldn't really find anything on this. Thanks, Paul

turns out that my LSD does work - just not when its really slippery (ice). I tried it in some dirt/sand and both tires were digging down...

update: no engine check light has come on. I started to notice a black fluid being blown out of the tail pipe when I started the engine. Kind of oil/water mixture. I then checked the oil late last night and thought I noticed gas in it. Changed the oil and had to start it up again to move it forwards to get the garage door closed. Checked the oil again and still thought I noticed gas in it. At this point I am scared to drive it and I think its either a blown injector or a dropped ring. Any other suggestions?

I did a search on this and got a few threads that seemed like they covered some of the issues but I wanted to see if anyone out there had any other ideas. 94 4x4 SE Pathy. 216K km's. Problem: Today I first noticed a lack of power. Didn't think too much of it at first. ThenI noticed the idle getting really low when warm and loping between 200-500 rpm. Watching the tail pipe while it was idling and stepping on the gas I could see black smoke coming out (I could smell the unburnt gas too). Engine stalled a couple of times @ idle. Also would stutter below 1500 when I stepped on it but once above that it would run fine (lack of power though) Truck history: tune up 2 years ago (40K km's). new plugs, fuel filter, egr valve. Brand new air filter. Cleaned the MAF last month. I have not changed the o2 sensor. I have tried the mode III diagnostic but it says every thing is fine (55). Any ideas?? Thanks, Paul

so no one who has removed their O2 sensor can tell how they did it? I plan to take a torch to the exhaust when its cold, heat up the pipe and try to get the O2 sensor off quick. Opinions?