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madhakish

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Everything posted by madhakish

  1. Tapatalk on the phone leads to odd spelling errors.. That should be "pick-and-pull".. I might head back there today and take a look at the various parts/connectors in the tranny linkup. I've already pulled all my weather shielding and whatnot to add 2L of tranny fluid through the shifter opening so access is now pretty easy.. Hopefully I can stiffen things up. Will checkout the links and part #'s other sent to get a better idea of what I'm looking at. Re: the stalk - it's the round stalk w/ rear controls and variable intermittent. The issue is the overall available choices of stalk positions and how they lead to the connectors that lead to the wire harness. Of a total of 8 connectors at the wiring harness, only 5 are actually wired on my '93, and clearly all 8 are being used to make all the functions operate as intended. I made sure to grab the adapter and at least 6" of wire from the '94 i grabbed it from, and it has all 8 wired. I'll post some pics of the two side by side.. I did manage to cross some wires over and get low/high to work, but no intermittent. Rear appears to have a seperate connector that I would bet currently goes to the rear control button on the dash of my '93. My guess is the amplifier is the missing link to getting intermittent working with variable speed control, and if that's just a matter of running 3 more wires, then so be it. Thanks for the link 3rdtimesacharm! Unfortunately for me this guy had all the wiring in place - I'll still have to run *something* and acquire the amplifier from the vehicle i snagged the stalk from.
  2. Just clicked over 237k. Did my sway bar links today and both upper ball joints yesterday. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk
  3. Was at the puck and pull this weekend and just happened to be sitting in the driver seat removing the wiper stalk ( more on that later.. ) and found myself reaching down and moving the shifter through the gears and lo and behold - it was tight. Like, crisp. It moved fluidly, and without play, one gear to the next, and once seated felt firmly in place with little wiggle room.. My shifter however feels a bit shaking your grandma's hand - no resistance and probably more play in the joints than is healthy. My question to you oh great hive mind, what specifically is it in the 5 speed tranny, that keeps the actual shifter lever tight vs. loose and sloppy? I sure did like the feel of that. Re the stalk, a '94 w/variable intermittent does not work in a '93.. perhaps with some additional wiring, but not PnP.. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk
  4. I had an intermittent misfire that turned got really bad one cold day finally causing it to throw an injector code. Took it to the shop and it ran just as you describe the whole way there. Constant miss for maybe 1-5 minutes, then back to normal, then back to missing again. Prior to that she always had a sort of intermittent misfire but it only noticeable at idle.. The shop confirmed the injector code, but wanted a bunch of labor $$ to tell me which one so I took it hope and pulled/greased all the injector plugs on the passenger side of the block - voila! runs better than ever, no more misfire at idle, no more code, runs smooth in the cold and no problems since. And when I say cold, i'm talking -20 to -30F. If you're lucky like me and it's a passenger side injector and it is in fact injector related, it's a 2 minute job to grease the passenger side connectors. Nice and simple. If you want to take the intake plenum apart you can do all 6, and while you're in there take care of a few other things as well.
  5. Well that was worth while! I've always felt like the transmission felt "loose".. Too much vibration, too loud, etc. Hard to explain, but it just felt odd. Added 2L of Redline M/T and took her out for a test drive and it feels soooo much smoother at speed. It feels "full". As if everything is moving in fluid vs. not. Bearing "whine" is noticeably reduced but not gone. Overall at 2500-5500 rpm things just feel more solid. Very hard to explain, definitely have to feel it to understand..
  6. I've hit it with both air and electric impact guns using the 13mm attachment, as well as a 4' breaker propped up w/ a floor jack to keep it in the socket. I couldn't get it so i took it to my mechanic who also couldn't get it to budge. Maybe I'll hit it with a torch when it finally warms up enough to stay outside for more than 20 minutes.. Got the right GL, redline M/T something safe for bronze synchros etc.. Will top it off for now until I can get it loose.
  7. I've read the TSB, but it just seems to imply the fill hole doesn't allow for a proper refill volume. My drain plug is seized so a drain and fill is out without significant work and I am beginning to hear the dreaded whine.. Am I to understand that the transmission is not filled to all 5L from the factory (and none ever were?), and that one can and should fill the remaining 2L via the shifter opening regardless? If so is there any harm in adding new fluid to a stock fill that's been run for 225k miles given it's the proper yellow-metal friendly type? I've got 5L of redline in the garage but can't drain what's inside out..
  8. I've always been curious about this.. Did my research and it's now very clear. They are nearly identical at normal operating temperatures, so neither would have any impact on mileage at operating temperature.. They are the same thickness - 10 - @212F. It's the cold engine starts, and the high-temp, high-rev scenarios where the differences stand out and even at high temps the difference is often negligible, save for perhaps the race track. The engine oil weight recommended by the mfg is specific to the "thickness" of the oil at operating temperature, and it is this thickness measurement that determines the weight and grade required of the engine. The "cold" temperature does however impact overall stress at start due to the lower overall thickness of lower weight oils, and so extremely cold environments are better off using thinner weight oils to reduce startup wear. Because 5w-30 and 10w-30 are nearly identical with regard to the operation of the engine at temp it's likely a wash unless you live where I do, in which case, thinner is better. Purely for the sake of being nice to these high mileage motors in the extreme cold at startup. In cold weather however, oil thickness is much more significant. 5w-30 will be thinner, potentially significantly so. The colder things get the greater the difference between the two would be at cold start. 5w-30 thus providing more oil to the engine parts faster, requiring less work to flow across and through the internals and pumps, thus allowing for less wear and stress and a quicker, easier start. So in either situation - high temp high rpm driving, or extreme cold, thinner oil is better. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ Chapters 3 and 5 talk about the differences at very low and very high temps but the whole thing is a great read. Especially the bit about storing oil in the cold..
  9. Tisdel's in So. Minneapolis does good work at decent prices. Ask for Tony, he knows these trucks well (mine included). 50th and Penn next to Broders. Tell him Tom Hudak sent you. That said, being that it's an auto of unknown mileage be aware that older auto trannys (auto tragics), unless it's been changed regularly and the internals are in good condition, are notorious for being problematic when changing the fluid. Suddenly having totally new, clean, viscous fluid can cause unexpected problems. Just be aware that if bad things happen, it's not necessarily the shops fault. Tisdel's will tell you the same. That said, they will seek out your noise, flush the diffs, etc. for a fair price and are good about starting simple and working their way up vs. just doing a ton of work and charging for it.. They keep all the high end synthetics on hand but you'll save $$ if you bring in your own in. I've got a '95 525i w/ an auto and all the BMW guys folks I know change their a/t fluid in waves rather than all at once.. Drain a small portion, maybe 1/4, and refill w/ fresh. Drive some, and repeat over the course of a few weeks. This eases the inner workings of the transmission into the newer fluid which has a different viscosity, different levels of sediments (metal shavings, etc.) vs. a huge, and potentially catastrophic flush and fill..
  10. CostCo has some good deals on mobil1 right now, maybe I'll go pickup a couple cases so I have some on hand. Have a couple 5qt jugs of royal purple 5w20 I used in the bimmer and have run a few cycles through the pathfinder with no ill effects thus far.. I'm also running full synthetic in the diffs, would be curious to find some better cold weather bearing grease if in fact that's what's making the difference. Incidentally, if I get rolling and pull it out of gear, it doesn't feel like it's free coasting. Almost like a brake is stuck on slightly but they are not (fresh brake job, verified everything is moving freely etc.)
  11. I know you guys like pics.. Here she is with a fresh coat of truck bed liner on the new bumper, loaded for a cross-country haul to SD, Wyoming, and Utah.
  12. I feel you there. I'm currently getting on average 11mpg. What's odd is that I've very recently replaced plugs, cap, rotor, wires, coil, air filter, greased the connections on the passenger side injectors and imo this truck is now running better than it ever has, yet with much worse mileage. Could be because i'm using 4wd more, warming it up more (between -5 and -30 all january long), but it's literally cut in half. I'd say about 50% of the time I let it run long enough to let the tranny fluid get warmed up to make shifting easier on my synchros but it's not like i"m letting it sit for a half hour at idle.. One thing that struck me was that I put 10w30 full syn in prior to a road trip in some extremely hot conditions last summer (115F in Moab, early July for example). I'm about due for an oil change and will be going w/ the typical 5w20 full syn, but could having such thick oil really bog the motor down that much? I mean once it's warm, it's warm. normal viscosity should return at proper operating temp, and I was consistently getting 15-19mpg on the freeway the entire road trip - over 1500 miles - with about 500# of gear in back, bikes on top, and two adults inside. I have not replaced the o2 sensor since I bought the truck, and it's completely rusted in place so i need a new bung etc. but it throws no codes, doesn't stumble, doesn't seem to run rich or thin, etc.. Just gets 11mpg consistently. Could my wheel bearings need grease? Could I be getting undue rolling resistance from something in the drive train by not fully unlocking the front hubs switching from 4wd in snow to 2wd on the freeway at stops/on the fly?
  13. Worst thing that's happened to me (other than the wiper freezing to the windshield and destroying the ball joint on the wiper arm pivot) is the fuel lines off the tank shrank and began leaking.. That was at -35, and hasn't happened since, but I did pickup extra fuel line to replace them once it's above zero again.. Other than that it starts and drives just fine, no matter the cold.. I always use agm batteries and have never needed a jump. Using the transmission trick to let the fluid warm up with the engine was truly a revelation and I haven't had a hard shift since. Now I just have to slowly start replacing all the 20 year old plastic parts that are breaking.. Like the door handles. Turns out the starter problem I had last month was due to an excess of oil built up after a few oil changes drained onto it.. Will probably do a relocation this summer to eliminate that issue.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. Picked up the rock auto unit. Looks to be pretty solid. Truck will die long before this thing.. Installing tonight, in the cold, hopefully it goes quickly. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. So my wiper linkage finally failed today.. I have had 2 Maxima's and now this Pathfinder have the exact same problem. The Maxima's however did not have a removeable cowl from which to access said assembly leaving me a nasty cut/weld job to complete the repair. Granted, the stock parts lasted 20 years, but I know this will fail again and it's only a matter of time. It's a fairly weak, plastic ball joint assembly. Has anyone ever upgraded to a newer/better component? Is there such a thing? Already have a note out to Alkorahil requesting part #'s..
  16. As far as continental US goes, MN tops the list. Maybe Alaska can compare state by state but that would have to go to the numbers.. Once you get into the deep north, core heaters are the norm, as are these.. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200592746_200592746 MN is a fairly tall state, the twin cities pretty far south compared to say Tower or International Falls where you typically see weather matching whatever Winnepeg has which is only about maybe 60 miles further north.. Mostly dry arctic air though so while it's very cold, we don't get the snow fall that some of the eastern and mountain states receive.. Upper Peninsula MI seems to be the snow king though.. I'm heading to Mount Bohemia on the 17th and we'll really get to test the 4wd and deep snow (and perhaps chains).
  17. Neutral diff trick - brilliant! Temps are falling to -20's in Minneapolis again on sun/mon/tues and will need it. Mine's tank cover is currently frozen shut and the release isn't working. I keep a long flathead pry tool in the glove box (nylon w/ steel core) but a flathead screwdriver will suffice. Bend the locking tab in towards the hinge, she'll open right up. Don't pry else you'll chip your paint. I painted mine with truck bed liner so I don't worry much about it. Yeah, window freezing can be a serious problem, you don't want to be without defrost around here. I have considered higher temp thermostats but haven't put one in yet.. Waiting until I do the water pump. Fill plug opens ok, but the bottom drain plug is a no go. I don't have a hot enough torch to get it anywhere close to red hot, and I've only been using a 1/2" breaker bar and a 4ft steel bar. I used my floor jack to hold the end in place and gave it everything I had. Picking up a 13mm and will give it another go after a hotter torch is applied, and some pb blaster. Has anyone else ever experienced their fuel lines leaking at the pump from the tank in the cold? Is access easy to the pump/hoses from the bed in back fairly easy to get into? If it's a quick hose replacement I don't mind getting in there but I don't want to spend any more time than I have to outside to fix it..
  18. I keep a box in the back to shove between the rad and the a/c unit.. Cover as much as possible since the truck generally runs quite cool anyways (1/4 gauge, never more until high heat/elevation driving).. A box in front brings her up to just under half the gauge, and the heat kicks well at that point which is very necessary as the windows freeze over from the inside due to your breath in the air, evaporation from you, your clothes, etc. from your warm humid house, and your wet snowy boots.. Tranny fluid is another issue, can't get the plug out.. Plus, cold. TSP printout and 6L Redline in a box waiting to go in! Been following your posts for a while..
  19. I run full syn in both diffs and the block as well, but yes, cold is cold no matter what way you cut it. My last attempt at budging the drain plug in my tranny resulted in a broken "persuader".. My mechanic even gave up on it, which to be honest probably says more about the mechanic than the drain plug.. I've got 6q of redline waiting to refill it in the garage in a box. afaik it's got what they filled it with at the factory when they rolled it off the line.. :| Honestly though, in this cold, it's the rubber/plastic stuff.. It breaks. It's a PITA. I can't tell you how much of this 20 year old plastic has broken or begun leaking, squeaking, etc. because it's so cold..
  20. I run full syn and the engine oil light comes on for maybe 2-3 seconds and then the motor purrs right up.. Letting the clutch out on the other hand (even in neutral) kills it, and the total lack of mtf viscosity is enough to pull the truck forward in neutral if you rev the engine to prevent it from dying. I usually have to rev and slowly let the clutch out after the engine has about 10-20 seconds of run time. It is nearly impossible to move the shifter and the steering is very stiff. After maybe 1-2 min I have a normal but strong idle and the tranny fluid is loose enough to slowly shift into gear with quite a bit of effort. 2-300 yards of driving gets everything moving and shifting, steering, etc. all come to life. That said, my door handle broke off right off the other day, my gas lines started leaking at the pump above the tank, gauges act funny until their warm, the washer fluid freezes to the windshield unless you get the special -50 stuff, my gas tank door hinge stopped working, the washer fluid pump motor blows the fluid line right off regularly because it's now frozen hard plastic instead of soft rubber, and the heat barely keeps up without a box wedged in front of the radiator.. So there's that.
  21. Woke up to this: Pathy started right up and we went snowboarding. However. The gas-lines at the pump started leaking and the passenger door handle broke off.. So -23 has it's +'s and -'s..
  22. I've got a moog damper with instructions that state "toyota 4wd" but it looks like a pretty common bushing assembly so it shouldn't be hard to craft up something. Do I take this to mean that the nissan damper pin bolted to the frame in the picture is also not used or just the bracket on the center link? I'm looking at what I've got and it looks like I'm missing something to mount it to. Just like a front shock, it looks like a small plate bolted to the frame with a hole for the other end of the shock to go through would suffice.. The centerlink adapter is perfect size for the bushing assembly on one end of the damper, but the other end just looks like it's in need of a bracket to screw onto that isn't there.. Could certainly weld something up.. Looking at the pics of that pin, it appears the damper/bushing is attached at the frame, the reverse of mine which should bolt right up to the bracket on the center link, but I can't see the other end attached to the center link in the picture.. to see what is there..
  23. Happen to have a part # on that pin? Appears to be the last part I need to install my damper.. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. Indeed it was! Yeah, i'll be avoid them from now on. Lesson learned. I had honestly forgotten about the fitment issues until I pulled it off the shelf after the other idler arm finally was no longer tolerable.. Was looking at going all in on the calmini steering/suspension upgrades but I'm now i'm leaning towards OME or a rancho setup.. Not interested in lift so much as better components. Speaking of cold, fix one problem, develop another. Out of nowhere, i'm now only getting a "click" out of the starter/solenoid. Had it all replaced about a year ago so it's all fairly new. No crank, just a click. Happened the other day and I hit the connections with some b10 to clean out the crap, and a little wd40 and then hit it with a hammer and cleaned the garage. One of those things worked and it started 40 minutes later. This AM it's -3 again and she won't start - click. I figure this time I'll try everything in order, so I hit it with b10 again and gave it some time and voila.. Starts right up. So I'm gathering it's a poor connection at the solenoid. More fun on a cold day. Will keep some b10 in the back just in case.
  25. Someone at some point had replaced the stock ia with a cheapo knock off, i picked up a new proper unit at napa for about $50. I had read about one other forum members experience only after the calmini unit arrived so I to some degree expected it but I was struck by just how off it actually was. That said, with a shave, it is installed, and appears to be completely bombproof so I'll go with it. I haven't measured the resistance since I did it cold that day, once it started and fired up it was running so well i figured it was good, and I had seen a pretty steady reading, and a consistent level across the 3. The idle smoothness struck me at once, it was a surprising change from what the pre-code idle was like, and obviously a massive improvement from one injector simply not operating at all. At some point I'll need to take apart the intake and fuel rail anyways and I'll likely do injectors then.. Hoping this quick fix lasts until the weather warms up at least. From what I understand the coils on these (same as the maxima) go after some time and all at around the same lifespan, so once one dies (really dies, not just bad connector) they're likely all going to start going out.. At 230k, I don't mind putting $300 and a day of labor into a brand new set of critical components like these, esp. after such a good, relatively service free 5 years of life since I bought her. I'd just rather it not be 0 degrees when doing so.
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