madhakish

My tapatalk reply apparently didn't make it in here so here goes again. Re: HID's, alignments etc. yeah I'd never put anything that would blind oncoming drivers in, and now that so many of the OEM's are moving to LED it seems like the tech has finally come to pass although perhaps not with this cheap of a set.. I did try my hand at building the relays but I have to have something wrong in my setup, I'm currently getting 1 beam at full brightness and 1 very dim but I didn't not have a wiring diagram to reference. I'm going to have to dig up the actual diagram and check my work. The other way I was looking at going was the h4/cibi route and the hardbody front-end.. Will try to unfsck my relay setup first though.

My headlight brightness is really disappointing and now one appears to be dimming further than the other. Im looking at doing the relay upgrade but Ive done HID upgrades in all my other cars and have considered LED as well. Anyone tried one of these 9004 style low/high beam conversion kits? https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/vehicle/1993-nissan-pathfinder--high+++low+beam+headlamp/43-811--327922/ At $50/light that's a potentially very significant upgrade.. If no one here has done it, maybe I'll make myself the guinnea pig.

Yeah, concur about graphite inside the lock mechanism/tumblers.. Don't put anything liquid in there, generally, unless you know it's evaporating away or can be flushed clean. WD40 is basically just a dirt magnet. Fluid film is not immune to this problem, but it does a hell of a lot better job at staying put, preventing rust, etc. FWIW Fluid film is used by all the farmers around here in large quantities for farm equipment, or really anything that needs to stand up to the elements.

Fluid film, its lanolin based and will last a lot longer than wd40. Spray in and a round moving components inside your door. We use it as a rust preventative in MN.. Put some on your battery leads to prevent them from corroding as well. If you need an immediate de-thaw you can use rubbing alcohol and a syringe or small spray bottle to loosen anything directly frozen then coat it in fluid film to prevent it from happening again. Also wipe down your weather seals lest your doors freeze closed..

That'll do it..

If even one torsion bar is off you'll feel a pretty odd imbalance in front end response.. Don't ask me how I know. Felt similar to what you describe. One side dove more than the other, and the other side seemed to rebound harder, causing a strong imbalance in front end response.. Did you actually replace the compression rods? They can only be special ordered from a dealer. I had one sheared in half that was just sort of held together by pressure and bushings for who know how long until it fell apart on me when attempting a bushing replacement due to squeaking over *everything*.

This connector has two wires coming off the + post, one had broken loose and was disconnected. Noticed it because i bumped the battery checking relays and heard all the accessories power up and then saw it just barely touching its connector. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Was digging around and found a broken wire up at the battery harness. Soldered a new peice of fresh wire in and shes off and running again! Looks like the battery is a bit loose andbsliding around enough to bump/push/pull on the connector and it had corroded a bit.. Thanks Precise1. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Mods - this is a dupe post, can it be joined to the previous one? Terra - yup all correct amperage across the board. See the other post for my last post. Will be hunting gremlins tonight. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Time to get out the volt meter and start hunting open circuits.. Before this when my blinker is on and the fuse for CIG/ac is not blown I hear an audible clicking through the stereo, as soon as that fuse pops, the clicking stops.. Now I wonder if my attempt at upgrading stalks didn't jar loose a wire connector.. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

So I've been having odd power problems on and off, like the CIG lighter fuse blows and my rear amp comes on, replace the fuse and A/C and CIG lighter work again but rear amp goes.. Today leaving work everything just shut off except the headlights. The backlight for the clock is on bit no clock, no interior lights, no tail/brake lights, HU, amps, etc (stock amps, aftermarket HU). No fuses are blown but nothing works except headlights. Wtf just happened? Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

But you of all people I would expect to think outside the box repair wise.. ;-) I've been thinking about just encasing all the cancer in por51 and sheet steel to stem the bleeding a few more years, but yeah - I lack access to all the goodies to play out of boredom, just necessity.. And to practice my welding. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Nunya, what sort of investment do you have into all the fabricayion/welding stuff you do? I'm guessing at least mig setup+ plasma cutter and perhaps a healthy distain for your neighbors? Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

@SpecialWarr - you win .. You definitely win. ;-) The reliability is honestly what makes this a tough choice.. Id consider R50, if tjere were really major offroad worthiness issues theyd have shoen themselves by now.. That's what makes this decision so tough. There is definitely something to be said for having a comfortable ride on the way TO the trail though. And more power would be nice for crossing mtns at the very least.. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

She don't look bad from afar but its what you can't see that's important, pretty much all the bushings are shot, those holes in the rocker panel pickup sticks and logs on the trail, and the duct tape only lasts a couple hundred miles or a few hot sunny days until its no longer keeping the rain at bay.. Most of the dash vents are broken or missing, seats suck and aren't comfy any more (were they ever?) and no cruise control makes long journeys painful in more ways than one.. [ Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

@FeelthePathos95 I'll take you up on that! @bushnut, I hadn't really looked at the R50s, are they really as rugged? How do the frames and suspension compare? I know they went unibody but thats about as far as ive read up. I'll have to go browse their reading materials.. I've looked at a few xterras as well and the supercharged version seems pretty rowdy, beefy ifs built on bilsteins etc (and designated wd22 of course). Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

I'm not in need or a particular hurry, just looking at options for where to go with this vs. another/newer route. After this last trip I'm realizing what really needs to be done, how badly and costs involved as it's becoming time to either do the work or make another move. I guess I don't know why I haven't looked further out, I certainly have no problem heading south/west to find something clean and I would love to find a manual '94/95 SE w/ LSD but I also know that further limits my options. I've got another project on hold sitting in the garage too so that weighs heavily.. So many projects, so little monies. :| Part of me wants to just rivet/weld some diamond plate in place and cover it all in truck bed liner. @FeelthePathos95 - Yup, I had two maxima's well over 300k but no lower body paneling left to speak of.. pita.

Good day all. I've recently returned from yet another excellent road trip to the U.P. for some camping and exploring, however it is with this trip that I've made some realizations that leave me on the fence about my next steps. As you all know a pathy in the rust belt is not always a problem free daliance. In preparation to leave, I snapped a thrust rod - a part no longer in existence outside of large Nissan parts warehouses or junkyards. I've got rust holes in the rocker panels and forming in the quarter panels. Seems like more often than not parts are being replaced out of necessity and extreme wear if they can even be worked on at all. I've had no less than 3 mechanics try to remove the tranny drain plug with no success, now I need a clutch. The weather stripping on top of the windshield is failing and the rust has progressed to the degree it's leaking in the truck during rainstorms. Now mind you - this beast has gone and done everywhere, and it's lived a full life no doubt about that. I'm crossing 240k, with few if any engine or drive train issues aside from the clutch and tranny fluid plug problem but I don't has LSD, it's not lifted, and I already can see a lot more suspension work in my future to get her back to "like new" ride wise. In your oh so wise and humble opinions who thinks I should keep her and work through our issues, weld in paneling where required, fixing suspension and breaking things, and just dealing with rust knowing she's an old lady who may or may not kick at any time? If I can't find another WD21, what if any "comparable" replacement vehicles outside of a 90-95 WD21 are there our there? (Xterra, Range Rovers, Montero's, Passports, etc.) and whats generally considered in the same league as these old beasts? I just love the idea of a tank of a truck made to go do fun things in places others can't get to, all while not giving a care in the world. The number of things I love about this truck are too many to list, but the number of problems and creaks and groans seems to increase daily. I guess I'm looking for inspiration one way or the other to keep plowing ahead, or bite the bullet and put her to pasture. TL;DR - Is the old mare more trouble than she's worth? What else out there is like her?

Well the problem is that it snapped the drivers side bar 1 day before leaving on a week long road trip, so this was mainly a repair out of necessity. I did soak them with 3 heavy coat a of rustoleum for now until the new rods are ordered.. But I'll be doing these, the torsion bars, and uca's at the same time and completing the lift up front and in back. Sure did make a difference in handling and road feel! Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Best looking one in the yard.. 2.5 hours of the hardest wrenching I've ever done in my life and I got it out. I feel like I just did a heavy set of deadlifts. But I now have both and new bushings to boot! Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Yeah, the run to Napa to pickup a 22mm deep socket w/ one on was a bit crazy. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Well, there's a '94 at the pick n pull, looks like I'm making a trip tomorrow.. Apparently this is an "if you're lucky" part. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

So I just snapped this right off.. Anyone aware of other names for that piece or am I stuck wrenching it off a junker? Anyone know how safe it is to drive without the compression rods? Control arm still doesn't move even a little for me on a 3' persuader so it seems pretty solid.. Heading to the U.P. on Friday for a week and was hoping to wheel a bit.. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

I have adjustable stops on my rear glass gate, similar to those under the hook.. They look bike big rubber screws. I used to give em a turn every once in a while but got tired of that and hit em with some lock tight, they don't settle anymore and I haven't adjusted the hood or rear glass in a couple of months. Another tip along the lines of your rubber fix, I refreshed all my window seals by cutting bike tubes into flat strips of rubber and cementing them in place. Some painters tape and plastidip makes for a very slick and functional boost to aged weather stripping. Took a couple hours including dry time and I managed to fix all the gaps in each corner but now that I've got a good process I'll be doing this all the way around the truck. No more whistle at hwy speeds! Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

Burgundy with matching interior, aka, rapey red.. Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk