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About big_johnson

  • Rank
    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 06/13/1986

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    97 Pathfinder SE, 5sp, Rocky Road Sliders, 31x10.5 BFG AT/KO's, Warn Hubs, Magnaflow muffler, Scangauge II
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
  • Year

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Golden, CO
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Mountain bikes, dirt bikes, snowboards, skis, wheeling, adventuring
  1. Unfortunately I can't shed much light on the on the peak to peak edition. I bought my pathfinder used and it just happened to have that badge on there, which the original owner didn't know much about either. I do know it was purchased from a dealer in Boulder, CO, so it could have been something unique they did. Maybe something to do with trim? Mine is a 4x4 manual trans with leather...

  2. Hello! My name is Randy, I was doing a search about my pathy, a Peak to Peak edition...I see yours is one as well! I realize the only difference between having the edition and not is likely the cool decal. But do you know anything more? Perhaps what dealer did it? Thanks! =)

  3. big_johnson

    Loss of power after timing belt change?

    Thanks for the responses. I'm considering just taking it to a dealer at this point, seems like they have the highest chance of getting it right...
  4. Hi all, Haven't posted in a while but need some help! Long story short (kind of): Had my water pump and timing belt replaced around 100k, no problems. Water pump decides to start leaking around 133k, so it needs to be replaced again unfortunately. The shop felt that it would be good to do the timing belt again while they were in there, so I said OK (only a bit more in parts at that point). I get the car back, and now have a noticeable lack of power at lower rpm's, lower mpg, and an odd intermittent knocking noise from the engine. Took the car back to the shop and they had to re-tension the belt, apparently they had set it below spec. So the noise is gone, but I still have no power and lower mpg. I took the car back to the shop again with this complaint, and they couldn't find anything wrong. So I'm frustrated at this point. I know something is wrong, but I'm not sure what it could be. I was thinking the timing is off, but you would hope they checked for that when I brought it back the second time. It feels like going back to that shop is pointless now, unfortunately. I also have a Scangauge which backs up my perceived lack of power: It has a feature called "load", which indicates how much power you are using out of how much you have available at any rpm. Previously, my load would go to 100% at any rpm if I stepped on it. Now, it only gets to 89% at lower rpm, and barely reaches 100% at redline. Basically, the lower the rpm, the greater the power loss. Mpg is also down from 19.5 to barely 17, with the same exact driving. Any insight or advice would be very helpful! I just want my car back the way it was, it's frustrating to drive as is. Thanks!
  5. big_johnson

    Check engine light

    This is what my last 2 CEL's have been. Fortunately, I have a Scangauge to read my codes!
  6. Hi all, I finally got around to getting some super sliders from Rocky Road. I'm about to install them, but had a quick question. Are they supposed to use any of the factory mounting holes? I thought they were, but from a quick fit check, it looks like every bolt will have to be drilled. Also, I'm not sure the hex bolts will work out due to the location of the mounts. I'm a bit concerned, since they also sent me the install guide for a 2005 Pathfinder. Hopefully they didn't send the wrong year? Or, if anyone has a super slider pic of them mounted under the car it would be very useful. Thanks!
  7. Hi all, I haven't been on here for a while, but was going through my videos and found a few that might be entertaining for my fellow R50 dudes. I figured this was specific enough to post in here Anyways, here are 2 videos from Red Cone Pass in Colorado about 3 years ago. Guy with the camera = my dad, goofy looking dude behind the wheel = me. Here's a hill climb vid: A picture showing the hill from a distance: And a rocky section in the middle: Picture looking up on the rocky section: Now just some more pictures: Another hill climb: The final descent (one way only): Scenery: Hope you liked them!
  8. Lots of you on here have aftermarket rims, and I've been thinking of upgrading. My question is: how many are paying attention to lug centric vs hub centric setups? I've heard bad things about moving to lug centric (as stock is hub centric). However, some places make custon adapter rings to convert LC to HC. Do these work well? Any insight? Thanks, -Chris
  9. big_johnson

    Need a quick measurement...

    Tmorgan- Thanks for the offer. I should update my profile though, as I live in Crested Butte now! I'll definitely keep the springs in mind, but go ahead and get rid of them if someone else wants to buy.
  10. big_johnson

    Need a quick measurement...

    Nope. Just the OME regular fronts. I thought about swapping to HD springs, but figured the ride would be a bit harsh with no aftermarket bumper up front.
  11. big_johnson

    need help deciding

    I could be wrong... but I'm almost positive the WJ grand cherokees were SFA. I thought they changed to IFS with the WK(?)
  12. big_johnson

    Need a quick measurement...

    Haha, I'm Chris as well. Actually, I have OME springs at the moment, so I couldn't tell you what the factory measurement was. I'm just not a fan of the extreme tail high look I've got right now, and going the spacer route is a bit of a hassle. Dean, thanks for the post. That is actually very helpful, as those are the exact tires I have
  13. Can someone grab me a quick hub to fender measurement for the front? Or ground to fender if you have 31's. Trying to see if mismatching some springs will work. Thanks, -Chris
  14. big_johnson

    Cold Start Problems

    I’ve been dealing with this problem for a while now. It has left me temporarily stranded a few times, but the truck does eventually start. A few things I’ve learned: -For me, it only happens in cold weather AND at high altitude. -If the truck does die after the initial start, floor the gas pedal and crank the starter. The engine will start, but it may take a while (>30 seconds). Be careful doing this if you are by yourself, as it can wear down a battery quickly. -If you want to make sure the truck starts the first time, you can floor the gas pedal first and then crank the starter. Let off the gas after it catches. This allows the maximum amount of air into the engine, while the fuel pump is only delivering the “start up” amount of fuel. However, this is fairly hard on the engine in cold weather, as it revs to around 3000 rpm with very cold oil. -The truck ECU ‘learns’ conditions well. I used to have this problem when I would drive up to the mountains from around Denver (approximately a 3000 foot gain). However, I now live in the mountains, and my truck no longer has this issue. It seems like it adapted to the air conditions, and adjusted accordingly. -I’ve heard of a few other tricks, and they all involve tricking the ecu. One is to unplug the MAF sensor to start it, then plug it back in. This is supposed to eliminate the airflow readings going to the computer, so it dumps less fuel in. However, I have tried this once and it made no difference. It will also throw a code that you have to reset. Hope this helps!
  15. big_johnson

    Muffler/Resonator Questions

    the resonator is definitely not necessary, it basically serves to further 'refine' the exhaust sound/resonance (hence the name). You can get away with running a 2.5" pipe exiting the muffler, instead of the stock 2.25. I went with a dual in, single out muffler and had the shop weld it in. 2.5" exhaust will lose a bit of low end torque, but not a noticeable amount for me. the greater mid range power was noticeable though as far as a tip goes, it depends on what kind you are buying. if they are welding it on, get one designed for a 2.25" pipe. if it is one of the cheaper bolt on types, then 2.5" would probably be ok.

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