jproy

I did this today! I used the same silicone spray pictured above and it worked like a champ! I would have never believed this worked so well if I had not tired it. I used to joke about how I purchased the "extra sloooow window option". Not any more. Thanks!

The full conversion would be very cool. I read your thread a few days ago right before I joined. Interesting. I may do the Brembos. I found a few sites earlier. They were 200+. pretty normal. I know they are not crap. I have lots of experience with Rotora. They make the BBK's (Big Brake Kits) I use on my other cars. They are very good and I will probably go this route after I confirm the way they were made with the engineer. I know him. http://www.amazon.com/Rotora-R-42068-2S-PA...5502&sr=8-3 http://www.amazon.com/Rotora-R-42068-1S-PA...5502&sr=8-4

So....you want to sell it to me? For the vg33?

That does qualify. I think I am going to do the pipe trick, routing cold air up to the intake from one of the fog grill inserts. Where can I get the MAF adapter plate for a cone filter? Thanks, Jim

No big deal. I agree with the above. I must agree that there are some very ****** american brand rotors. I was just talking about where most of the good metal, from the start, comes from. Metal of any grade from anywhere can be proccessed into the highest grade possible. I have probably taken this way too far for the practicality of the Path. I am leaning toward the Brembo blanks at the moment. The market doesnt look too broad for the Path.

Not from a company called Americansteel, I was only referring to the cheap metallurgy of many foreign sourced low grade steel. There are Asian companies with high grade steel but MOST of the high grade steel is sourced from the U. S. and European plants/mines. High grade steel is much less likely to warp and has a slightly higher thermal capacity. Most of the good stuff from the Asian companies starts out from the U. S. and European plants. I was throwing out info from experience. I would have to dig to provide the accurate concrete evidence. Probably shouldn’t say it if I'm not going to back it up. Please accept my apology if that came off as a racist comment.

I have a BBK from Rotora on one of my cars. It was a night and day brake performance change with regard to fade and repeated use during performance driving. I cant make em fade at 150mph. I have a slight shimmy in the front end under braking on the Path. It comes and goes so I am hoping it is suspension related. If it doesnt go away after the work (replacing every rubber and ball/socket part), I want to get some nice rotors or larger rotors for the beast. The rotors on the truck now only have about 8K miles and new pads. I thought we should start a thread to make a list of available high end rotors and pads from top companies with testimony to warpage resistance. Where to buy the good stuff? Anyone know of a way to put larger rotors on or someone who has done it from say a Titan? If not, who makes Rotors with the best warpage resistance for the Pathfinder or a BBK, Cyro treated and/or high quality American steel? I saw that StopTech makes a set but I know, all too well, the rotor game. Thermal capacity is the rule! It doesnt change unless you add material thus storing more Jules of thermal energy before warpage. However, high quality, non-Chinese/Japanese steel, with special treatments and slots can go a long way to improve resistance to warpage. FYI, those of you using OEM size rotors with drilled holes as opposed to cast holes and abuse the brakes on the hwy or around town, they will form radial cracks out from the holes to the edge of the disk over time. They can eventually crack and seize a wheel, never seen it on a slotted rotor. It does happen with cheap drilled steel. Most race cars and high end marks that use rotors with holes are actually cast that way or have been drilled with enough material in the disk to prevent cracking from thermal capacity overload. Some of them honestly do it just for the look. The way to go is slotted hands down. I have tons of experience with brake systems. I have destroyed countless cheap rotors in my early days. Most drilled rotors start as cheap steel blanks. Take a look at your own if you have cross-drilled’s, it is something to keep an eye on. Drilled does look cool though! I should just get off my ass and start calling the companies I know make good rotors and look into it. I will report back with what I find but what do you know about premium rotors for the Path with good warpage resistance regardless of cost?

Get anywhere with this?

has this been verified with the BFG's for the LE 17" wheels? Thanks.

So when is the after dyno coming? I would love to know what the numbers where? Anyone tried the cams from the 4X4pars.com site? They say they are billet cut and not regrinds. $550 for the VG33 in the 2000 path.

Excuse me! Dont know how that crap fell on the key board. The Pathfinder obviously does not have leaf springs. I bought the front and rear poly bushings for the front lower arm the 8 one piece bushings for the rear upper and lower trailing arms new brakes for the rear, the front balls, outer tie rods, sway bar end-links front and rear, manual hubs for the front, upper end-link bushings for the rear links, both steering rack mounts. I’m going to have the rear drums turned assuming they are thick enough. I will flush all the lines brake lines with Motul, do the oil with synthetic M1 10W-30, Seafoam, etc. Should get to it the first week in January. I should have a nice ride after I install everything. Soon as the tires are done I'll get some black steel wheels and BFG's, probably 29-31". Suggestions? Next will be the comp cams with new lifters and the CAI with a port match and polish to the UIM and the LIM courtesy of me. Not going to play with the heads. Does the board have a preferred CAI proven to show the most gains in WHP on a dyno or something recommended? After that I will probably do the HD suspension package mentioned above if all goes well for the testers. The ECU upgrade doesn’t seem to be worth it. I want a beast but it has to be streetable, stable, and comfy on the interstate at 80mph.

On the diff itself or on the pumpkin/diff housing?

^^^Thanks Anybody have a list of sizes I should look at hight, width, load rating, etc. I should look at when buying for the LE 4x4 What is the most common tire width and hight here for a stock suspension 4x4 LE assuming at least one step up from stock?

I have been looking around and found some info on the LSD for the Pathfinder. I cant confirm if my truck has one or not. Anybody know? From looking at the service manual there is a LSD and an open face listed. Anyway, the open face listed appears to have a beakaway torque of only 65-80 ft/lb. Weak! Whats the point? Has anyone else put an aftermarket LSD in the rear of the 2000 LE Pathfinder? I saw the LSD on the 4X4parts.com site but has anyone used it and really likes it. Anyone know what the breakaway torque is for it or what is available. I have a call into one of there techs now. The threads I found here were speculative and inconclusive. Thanks, Jim Are there any tech-ies here who might know what I could do if I tore down the OEM diff, if I have the LSD, to increase the breakaway torque?

Well the topic says it all. I hope I am not being a total noob buy asking this if there is a section dedicated to it. Mods, delete this thread if there is please. I want to get some wheels and tires for the Path. Looks like only 31"s will fit with the stock lift from my research. I cant find a 1" high quality lift kit. Anyone know where to find that. The lift will come later. So I want tires and wheels. I dont want bling wheels, just stock size black steel wheels with BFG's, probably A/T's. Who knows where the best place to get them the cheapest possibly in a package deal? thanks, Jim

Im going to get the polly and see who it goes. I will write a review when I do them next week or in January. The lady previously mentioned as the wife and I get married on the 20th so I will be busy. Sorry for the lie. Are there any parts I should replace like engine mounts or a forum rated all out best road bran of shocks/struts is should use etc. What do any of you know about the custom cams and the ECU upgrade? is it worth it and what have the experiences here been? What are the most notable engine upgrades other than forced induction? Also have any of you done the limited slip rear differential? Stock is an Open face, correct? experiences? Looks promising. I hate spinning one wheel in the rain. i also noticed the upgraded rear springs. Any experiences there?

I need a full service manual for my 2000 Nissan Pathfinder LE 4X4. I cant find anything. None of the links work. Help please!

So does anyone know what the breakaway torque for the after market LSD's for the 2000 LE pathfinder are like the ones on 4x4parts.com. I guess I should jsut call them. Any experience with the aftermarket units?

I will be replacing the front; lower arm bushings, steering rack bushings, ball joints, Inner and outter steering tie rods, front sway bar links. on the rear; sway bar links, the upper and lower arm bushings still feel firm and look good from what I can see Any recomendations for parts or while I have it torn down? Thanks, Jim

when I said BMW I meant good smooth quiet ride. That it drives very well, not any more rough riding than stock or even smoother possibly, but more responsive than OEM, plus the druability. Are the polly bushings better in every way? what are the negatives like squeaks, noise, noticibly harsh ride, etc?

I really appreciate the through responses so quickly! It is not on every forum you can find the quick desire to help much less enough traffic to elicit the responses. Very nice! All the posts and references were very helpful. I have looked at all of them and will be placing an order tonight. I happen to have an MP90 and an MP62 sitting at the house so I may have to fab something when I get the time. I am building another motor up at the moment so it is not in the cars right now. I am most interested in maintaining the stock ride. By firming up the suspension with polly mounts do you mean like a BMW or rougher and noisier over bumps? If the Polly mounts will make a ton of noise and a rougher ride I don't really want them. Are there any parts I should replace like engine mounts or a forum rated all out best road bran of shocks/struts is should use etc. What do any of you know about the custom cams and the ECU upgrade? is it worth it and what have the experiences here been? What are the most notable engine upgrades other than forced induction? Also have any of you done the limited slip rear differential? Stock is an Open face, correct? experiences? Looks promising. I hate spinning one wheel in the rain. i also noticed the upgraded rear springs. Any experiences there? Thanks again, Jim

Hello all, My name is Jim. I am a new member here. I am a member of other forums for other cars I own so forum use is not foreign to me. I purchased my silver 2000 Pathfinder LE 4x4 from a family member about two years ago for $3500 with 80000miles on it. It has a dark bluish leather interior, heated seats, Bose stereo, 3.3L motor, etc. I am not new to mechanic work. I have just about every tool a person could possibly want to work on a car and love when I have to go buy another to add to the collection. I have done lots of custom work, built custom superchargers, exhaust, cams, etc. and do most of my own work. I am a car nut who can’t fathom paying someone $1000 to do what I can on a Sunday afternoon with the same $150 or less worth of parts. The parts I do buy are of OEM quality or better. I usually find them for about 25% off when I buy OEM at sites I have found through forum friends. I have changed the head unit to a Sony since the OEM CD player quit working. I have changed the timing, valve cover gaskets, thermostat, and associated parts. The car runs like a champ and I love it. It is a solid truck and my wife like driving it more than her new 40K lux suv. I have always done my work on high-performance cars I’ve owned and am now having problems with the Pathfinder that are starting to cause concern for safety. That’s me in a nut shell. I have searched through the Pathfinder forums and found this to be one of the best. I have always used the forums to bounce ideas of others and learn. Here is the scoop, My Pathfinder has a vibration in the wheel at random speeds and an alarming clunk under the front suspension when going over potholes. There is also a clunk when yanking the wheel from side to side while in park. The car does not have the infamous Pathy highway wobble. She currently has 110,000 miles on the clock. I changed the rotors and pads. This did not cure the problem. I then put it on the rack and found the front differential mounts were shot. Changed ‘em. Changed the front axles while I was there because the boots had cracked and why not at this mileage. I have four new shocks on the car, the hat bearings at the top of the springs in the front were replaced as well as the lower balls. I climbed under the car with the wife swinging the steering wheel wildly from side to side to see where the clunk was coming from. Once under there I realized both the bushings that connect the lower arm to the sub frame are completely deteriorated on both lower arms. I could see both lower arms shifting back and forth as the wife yanked the wheel as well as torn fresh black rubber. Next I noticed the steering rack was shifting about 2-4 MM in the bushings that are supposed to hold it still. They look pretty deteriorated also. There are two of them that wrap around the rack. I also found that the inner or outer tie rods have play in them. My question to the experts here is this, 1) do I need to replace the whole lower arm or can I get just the bushings? 2) What do you know about what I need to replace to eliminate the steering rack movement? 3) And at this mileage are there any parts on the rear suspension I should closely examine for similar bushing damage. I will look the whole thing over anyway but I thought I’d ask. 4) Are there any upgrades I can make to the front brakes like putting larger calipers and rotors from a beefier vehicle that will bolt right in place of the existing parts and clear the OEM wheels on the car. 5) As far as I know the rear drums have never been worked on. Is it safe to turn the OEM drums or should I just replace them and the pads altogether. 6) Also, should I replace the master cylinder? What is the average service life on it? 7) Are there any known problems with this car I should look into that TSB’s were issued for or that you guys know of. 8) Where is the best place to purchase NEW OEM Nissan parts with deep discounts? Like 20-35% off MSRP? 9) Is there a supercharger for my Pathfinder in production. I have searched all of these topics on this and most of the boards and haven’t come up with much useful information relevant to my situation with conclusive setups or known problems specific to my vehicle. There have been a few sites I have found for parts but no good lists of where to go. I found the online service manual and downloaded the whole thing. I will wait to hear from you before I start buying parts. Well, I would appreciate all of your input on how I should approach this repair and what problems to look for in addition to what I have found. I have noticed that there is no separation of topics of threads in this Pathfinder section of this forum. I think the Moderators here should create sub categories for the Pathfinder forum like suspension upgrades, known problems, DIYs, frequently asked questions, etc. They are very helpful. Thanks for all of your time, Jim