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k9sar

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k9sar last won the day on January 23

k9sar had the most liked content!

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273 Excellent

About k9sar

  • Rank
    Ts'i mahnu uterna ot twan ot geifur hingts uto.
  • Birthday 03/10/1964

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    05 pathy. lifted but no other mods yet
  • Place of Residence
    my house
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    46+
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    2005

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SE PA
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    disruption of all that is good.

Recent Profile Visitors

12,548 profile views
  1. Noticed yesterday that my oil pressure reads maxed all the time (unless the truck is turned off). Even with the key just turned to the on position without the engine running, it flips to maximum. I know this isn't normal but my question is, for an R51, does the pressure read completely low or completely high when the key is first turned on? Can someone take notice and let me know? Deciding whether to chase a bad sensor or bad electrical.
  2. took the easy and relatively cheap path and threw a pair of rear O2 sensors in it. Seemed fine but threw the same 420 code again after a couple of days. Checked with my scanner and it says the one HO2S test failed due to a reading of 0023 with a min of 0033 or something like that. Unfortunately, the damned thing doesn't tell me which sensor it's reading. Thinking I need to do some testing where I disconnect 1 sensor at a time to determine which is for which test then do some reading on what the fruck the measurements are really telling me. No way I'm replacing the cat.
  3. Getting the dreaded cat inefficiency code and got to thinking what is really being measured. I know some people use a spark plug non-fouler but that only would work if the shop doesn't visually inspect the emissions. Has anyone actually modified the O2 sensor itself to get a 'tweaked' reading? I've seen videos on adding a resistor in series and a capacitor in parallel but that would be visible too unless it was hidden well. I was thinking of modifying the tip so not as much exhaust gas gets into the sensor. Disclaimer... t his is just for a test. I have ordered new O2 sensors but thought I'd mess around with the old ones to perhaps see what impact I could make on the readings. enough rambling.... if you've modded your O2 sensor, what did you do to it? Curious.
  4. March and still going strong. I haven't swapped my fronts from the old design to the new design but will do so when the weather turns good. Not an issue for daily driver and light conditions but at full flex and load, the bolts could strip out of the spacer (old style only). I discussed this with Steve and he redesigned the front spacers to correct that issue before placing the kits for sale so you won't have to worry about my issue. As an engineer, I reviewed his solution and approve of it so even though I have not run the new design for the front, I am very confident that they will work fine.
  5. rules mine out. I beat the crap out of it but if you want to throw 10k my way, I'd consider selling my 05.
  6. My 79 year old mother's Cadillac SRX (part of my inheritance..eventually) suddenly lost brakes. She came out of a store and when she hit the pedal, it went to the floor. Brakes had been working fine up until then. About a year and a half ago, all the hard lines had been replaced due to corrosion and her pads were replaced about 6 months ago. Anyway, she was able to limp it to her house. I stopped over to take a look and found the following: Running or not, the brake pedal goes to the floor when pressed. The brake fluid reservoir is full. There are no observed leaks around the master cylinder or junction block for the rear lines. After pressing the brakes a dozen or so times to the floor, there was no brake fluid leaked onto the driveway or any leakage around the calipers. So immediately I thought... master cylinder failed and ordered a replacement. Removed the hard lines (2) from the master cylinder and capped/plugged them. Swapped the reservoir to the new master cylinder and filled it with fluid. plugged the ports on the MC and held it in a bench vice. Using an old push-rod from a blown dodge engine, I forced the piston in the MC until it was no longer burping air and the piston was unable to be depressed. I felt that was a successful bench-bleed so I installed it in the vehicle, including using a syringe to add fluid to the rigid lines before installing in the MC (barely took any so I'm thinking that no air should have gotten into the system other than maybe a tiny bubble. I was very careful not to introduce air since it was cold and pouring down rain and I didn't feel like crawling under and bleeding the system. Got everything tight and wiped down... got in the vehicle and tested the brakes..... right to the floor DAMNIT! so, now I'm at a loss as to what the problem could be. What could cause a sudden loss of brakes that did not involve a ruptured line or failed MC? My understanding of the vacuum assist is that there is a hard linkage there through the diaphragm so even if the VA failed, brakes would still work. Any thoughts on where to look next? oh yea, and some clown on the Cadillac forums tried to tell me that a loose hub or wheel axle would cause that since the piston on the caliper would have to push much further if it were loose. He obviously doesn't understand disc brakes.

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