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Precise1

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Precise1 last won the day on August 13 2016

Precise1 had the most liked content!

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About Precise1

  • Rank
    Nothing to get excited about.
  • Birthday 12/01/1970

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    zyklus@sbcglobal.net

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '95XE Automagic/LSD ARB bullbar, 2" suspension lift, 2" body lift, Superlift UCAs, SwayAway T-bars, Cragar Soft 8s with 31" BFG MY KM2s. '99.0 R50, bone stock baby!
  • Place of Residence
    Santa Rosa, Ca
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    40-45
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Rosa, Ca
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Beer, Women, Mechanics, Beer, Cats, Motorcycles, Computers, Humor, Reading, Machining, Firearms, and my Wife, I suppose...

    Did I say beer twice? I like beer...

Recent Profile Visitors

32,763 profile views
  1. Hello, and welcome! Assuming all the other brake components are in good order and the brakes are properly bled, if your stopping ability is poor, check to make you don't have a vacuum leak, that the vacuum booster is working properly, and that your master cylinder isn't leaking. Otherwise, these should stop as well as any other 2 ton 4x4. Agreed, and I seem to recall a few people doing so, for the simplicity and parts availability. I've considered the rear disk swap, but have decided against it for exactly the same reason. Properly supported, it would be the ideal set up, but... B
  2. Without being a wisebutt, it will be the 1 part that you really need... In reality, the soft parts (seals, liners, boots, etc) are getting scarce and generally made anymore. I recall someone using a window seal from a different vehicle that fit very well, let me get back to you on that. I have a 91 with the 4x4 shifter cover, so if Adam's isn't acceptable, hit me up. Quite frankly, I have no interest in sunroofs or switching to rear disk for the reasons you mentioned. Neat and all, but more trouble than it is worth on these AFAIC. YMMV. B
  3. Yeah, I'll give them an "option" to see a "package" alright... Interesting... A friend of mine bought one of the newer Challengers when they first came out, and it just came with a can of fix-a-flat, since it has different sized tires front and rear. Yeah, that's neat and all, but screw that! Things happen on the road, and towing isn't always just down the street waiting for a call. B
  4. Welcome back! Just wandered back in myself. Seems I have these 3 pathfinders that I should do something about... B
  5. Hopefully he used the slowly expanding kind so he didn't crack the dash? B
  6. Have you checked the ECU for codes? Check to make sure the TPS is responding right (be sure to jiggle the wiring harness/connector, when it is running, of course) This might sound crazy, but I had a '95 manual that started to stumble/bog when shifting 1-2 and then 2-3 also. It would pick right back up and run fine again. Check the dizzy cap... mine had completely burned out the center contact and 1/2 the spring, so the spark was just arcing from the top of the cap down to the rotor. Had to prove it to the Autozone boys... showed them the inside of the cap, snapped it on, fired it up and hauled ass around the building for them. They basically crapped themselves... Anyway, check the cap, it takes 1 minute.
  7. It's rated pressure is 60psi, and it has 50psi in it right now, almost 6 months after I took it out. Oh, and the size is 135/70/16. A folded spare... that sounds very... German. Does it have a limited rating, or is it just as good as a non-folding tire? (doubtful) Nice that the space for it is the same, but that just means they cheaped out... I recommend doing what I did... just buy a new steelie and go to your local tire shop and see what's in the used tire pile. The spare for my wife is a better tire with more tread than the current Kumhos.
  8. Hey all, been a while... hope you have been good. I'm that jerk that nags my wife to check oil/water/tire pressure/spare before a trip (just a weekend can be 600+ miles). She hates that I don't just do it for her, but she has to know how and why as well, so tough schitt. Well, she managed to avoid it a few times, but just before ThanksGiving last year, I made her do the rounds, and guess what? Yep, that is what the 14 year old tire looked like. Granted it is a micro-emergency tire, but it has never been used in the 10+ years we have had the vehicle... it just sat in it's space saving well and rotted. Imagine being stuck somewhere only to find that this is what your spare looks like! Needless to say she went from "Why do I have to do this?" to "OMG what if I needed it?" real quick. The real point is that you won't find these tires at any tire shop, it is only at the stealership, and they probably don't have it in stock... I know, I called 1/2 a dozen. In this case, the oddball size was made by Continental (in Germany) and they would mount/balance/tax me for about $165. o_O So the wife now has a new full sized steel wheel ($60), a used tire from a local shop ($50) held down with some HF tie downs ($5)... $115 for the math challenged. This way she could just keep driving, across the state if need be, and not be limited to 50 miles/50mph with the factory sized crap. I yoinked the plastic holder thingie from the well, and that area is now hidden storage for everything from jack to water to change of clothes/shoes to emergency gear. The fulll sized spare takes up a little room, but it is worth it. (when will manufacturers stop this stupid schitt? Put a full sized spare tire in/on/under the car, anything else is a travesty.) Anywho... check your spares... well. B
  9. Redneck This one I must explain... " wmode="transparent" style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" flashvars=""> B
  10. So, what I would do is find yourself another VG33E block and go through it, top to bottom (I'm sure there are some aftermarket parts available), but specifically focus on porting/polishing the heads, any valve upgrades available and installing upgraded cams. Smooth out your intakes and exhaust manifolds, consider high flow cats, but definitely go with a after market/custom cat back exhaust. When your old motor tires/fails, swap the waiting one in with mostly stock components, and enjoy a fresh motor that performs 10-20% over stock. For road vehicles that has always been my strategy: Stock motor (maybe cam replacement) and peripherals (unless there is an inhibiting/fail prone component) for reliability, and then make it breathe like a cheetah and fart like an ox. Just think of an engine as a self driven air pump; as long as it has sufficient fuel, all it wants is all the air it can draw and not having it backed up on the way out. Oversimplification, but you get the point. You might want to consider setting all of this up and then doing the swap on your own schedule. Not only is it more convenient, but then you have a running motor to sell... BTW, unless you are extraordinarily hard on vehicles, you shouldn't be having issues. The VG series is known for 250k miles (400k km) without major issue at norm; we have a 1999.0 with 300k km that runs flawlessly. B
  11. I should add the nickname that my wife gave pathy #3, the part out: WHEN ARE YOU GOING TO GET RID OF THAT THING! B
  12. Just for fun, or be pedantic, do those bearing codes have something to do with diameters and angles, or are they just an in house nomenclature? B
  13. Which one? I drove one to the store... I walked past the other one... I put the battery charger on the next one... Y U SO PIKY? Dude... Don't get me wrong, but the WD21, without major mods, is a base level SUV that is surprisingly capable. The WD21 with some mods is awesome for a base level SUV (We're past Jeep here). The WD21 is a base level SUV unless you full on Steevo it. At that point, buy something else... (No slight on Steevo, he has taken the WD21 as far as it goes, that direction) ruggedrocks if you don't know. It's all good... WD21's are awesome! B

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