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Precise1

Moderator
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Precise1 last won the day on January 16

Precise1 had the most liked content!

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About Precise1

  • Rank
    Nothing to get excited about.
  • Birthday 12/01/1970

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    zyklus@sbcglobal.net

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    '95XE Automagic/LSD ARB bullbar, 2" suspension lift, 2" body lift, Superlift UCAs, SwayAway T-bars, Cragar Soft 8s with 31" BFG MY KM2s. '99.0 R50, bone stock baby!
  • Place of Residence
    Santa Rosa, Ca
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    40-45
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Rosa, Ca
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Beer, Women, Mechanics, Beer, Cats, Motorcycles, Computers, Humor, Reading, Machining, Firearms, and my Wife, I suppose...

    Did I say beer twice? I like beer...

Recent Profile Visitors

34,051 profile views
  1. Got it, and sorry, I somehow missed that the Yeti 100 was a "stand alone" system that you mounted, rather than just a solar panel. I also forgot to mention the cost of a solar charge controller in my previous post, but that's the cheapest component... around $50-100, depending. Yes, the batteries will help, but systems are a balance of input and output, I've found. Rarely have I ever set up a system and discovered that I had too much solar wattage... Especially since conditions are so often not ideal, I've found overspecing the panels pays off in the long run, especially with lead acid batteries. They don't like deep discharges, and have memories so a complete charge every use cycle is important of you want them to last. And of course the batteries are the easiest component to add to the system, but you know all this. It's amazing to me that more people don't utilize solar power, both stationary and mobile platforms. With a little bit of planning, it can replace a generator for casual use at least. I had emergency power at home when fires/PGE cut the power locally. People couldn't easily get gas for their generators, but my fridge/freezer kept running and I had plenty extra for lights and charging electronics from just a 400W system.
  2. Banned for being such a lousy shot. "Real NPORA Moderator" B
  3. I've delved into solar a bit... I have a Harbor Fright unit on my greenhouse (used that as a starting/learner kit), then set up a 400 watt off grid system with 5kW battery storage for emergency power (it also runs the fridge and freezer in my garage), I have small 40 watt panels on my kayak (40lb thrust trolling motor) that I have removed and started to make a folding/portable array for camping/emergencies with. I'm not saying I know all things solar, but I am familiar with small systems. If I were to make a roof mount set up for a Pathy, I'd probably use these 100W semi-flex solar panels, 1 or 2 of these sealed AGM deep cycle batteries into a power inverter with a "cigarette lighter" aka "power port" adapter for 12v power. A 100W, 35Ahr 12v port system would be under $250 and a 200W, 70Ahr system with a 400 watt inverter would be under $500. I'd mount the panels on a wooden base with a provision to be able to prop it up to catch the sun, or even be easily removable so you can better track the sun when stationary. *I used the dimensions from a 1999 R50 roof rack (40"x50" usable space). B
  4. I've installed a couple of sets of the air bags with fair success, and I suspect they might be sufficient for your issue, as long as you aren't doing any serious wheeling anyway. They are fairly hardy and definitely the cheapest/easiest option. Being able to adjust them is a nice benefit as well. If you are leery of using them, I would simply go with heavier rated springs (shocks don't really address the issue), and be prepared to install some spacers if the springs themselves aren't enough. It's basically depends on your comfort/budget factor.
  5. Welcome Poppa, and yes, the hive mind here knows damn near everything about Pathfinders and related motors/vehicles. IIRC the 3.3 is your only reasonable option. The VQ35 is a totally different animal needing a different mounting/transmission/rear end... I don't know that anyone has done it, but I don't know everything either. There are a few things you can do the to 3.3 to wake it up some though. Run something other than the stock intake/air box, port/polish the intake/plenum, install stage 1 cams or cams from a VG30, but I don't know about down stream exhaust mods/gains downstream of the two cats/O2 sensors. Then there is the supercharged version of the VG33 out of a Frontier or Xterra, but those are pricey and in high demand. Anyway, look around and do some searches, the info is here... B
  6. Damn, I said we needed new Mods many years ago, and you are just now getting around to it? Congrats mjotrainbrain, and welcome aboard. I used to serve the coffee around here occasionally a while back... B
  7. Yeah, I recognize a few names as well... Welcome back! You aren't the only one who took a break, and as for this "I'm so old" crap... psha! B
  8. Hello, and welcome! Assuming all the other brake components are in good order and the brakes are properly bled, if your stopping ability is poor, check to make you don't have a vacuum leak, that the vacuum booster is working properly, and that your master cylinder isn't leaking. Otherwise, these should stop as well as any other 2 ton 4x4. Agreed, and I seem to recall a few people doing so, for the simplicity and parts availability. I've considered the rear disk swap, but have decided against it for exactly the same reason. Properly supported, it would be the ideal set up, but... B
  9. Without being a wisebutt, it will be the 1 part that you really need... In reality, the soft parts (seals, liners, boots, etc) are getting scarce and generally made anymore. I recall someone using a window seal from a different vehicle that fit very well, let me get back to you on that. I have a 91 with the 4x4 shifter cover, so if Adam's isn't acceptable, hit me up. Quite frankly, I have no interest in sunroofs or switching to rear disk for the reasons you mentioned. Neat and all, but more trouble than it is worth on these AFAIC. YMMV. B
  10. Yeah, I'll give them an "option" to see a "package" alright... Interesting... A friend of mine bought one of the newer Challengers when they first came out, and it just came with a can of fix-a-flat, since it has different sized tires front and rear. Yeah, that's neat and all, but screw that! Things happen on the road, and towing isn't always just down the street waiting for a call. B
  11. Welcome back! Just wandered back in myself. Seems I have these 3 pathfinders that I should do something about... B
  12. Hopefully he used the slowly expanding kind so he didn't crack the dash? B
  13. Have you checked the ECU for codes? Check to make sure the TPS is responding right (be sure to jiggle the wiring harness/connector, when it is running, of course) This might sound crazy, but I had a '95 manual that started to stumble/bog when shifting 1-2 and then 2-3 also. It would pick right back up and run fine again. Check the dizzy cap... mine had completely burned out the center contact and 1/2 the spring, so the spark was just arcing from the top of the cap down to the rotor. Had to prove it to the Autozone boys... showed them the inside of the cap, snapped it on, fired it up and hauled ass around the building for them. They basically crapped themselves... Anyway, check the cap, it takes 1 minute.
  14. It's rated pressure is 60psi, and it has 50psi in it right now, almost 6 months after I took it out. Oh, and the size is 135/70/16. A folded spare... that sounds very... German. Does it have a limited rating, or is it just as good as a non-folding tire? (doubtful) Nice that the space for it is the same, but that just means they cheaped out... I recommend doing what I did... just buy a new steelie and go to your local tire shop and see what's in the used tire pile. The spare for my wife is a better tire with more tread than the current Kumhos.

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