Terry

WOW! your lucky, I was busy talking -argue- to my wife and rearended/totaled a mercedes.

I have a good ground from engine to frame, the teeth on the cam and dist are good. I had a dream a couple nights ago and I found that the dist shaft was shorting the power in the dist body so while it was out of the engine no short but as soon as I put it into the engine and the dist gear touched the cam I get a short. I havnt checked it out yet with Christmas and all but I'm going to this week.

Thanks, While I'm not convinced it tis the distributer I'm going to buy a new one just so I can say for sure that thats not it and move on..to what I don't know.

My pathy is running great but I have another problem with my chevy that I need help with with. Below is the gory details. I have a 1965 Chevy C-10 short bed pick up with a mid 1970 396ci engine, Turbo 400 transmission and an Eaton 12 bolt posi rear end. I started having electrical problems early last spring. The truck ran flawless until one day it just wouldn’t start, I found that I had no spark from the distributor. I checked for continuity from the distributor body to the frame of the truck and I had 12 volts going to the coil as well as a good ground. I replaced the coil (it is actually an HEI distributor so the coil sits on top of the distributor body), cap and rotor but still had no spark.. I took the distributor to a local shop to have it benched tested and it works perfectly, put it back in the truck still no spark. I took the distributor back out of the truck held it in my hand, connected the power plug from my truck and grounded with a jumper cable to the same location it is grounded on the truck and spun the shaft by hand, it has strong spark, put it back in the truck, no spark I replaced the harness that goes from the cap to the base of the distributor and connects to the high energy module inside the distributor, I check the shaft for play, everything is fine. All of a sudden the truck started working perfectly, so I thought I fixed it. Then in August it started acting like it was flooding and was really hard to start, it started back firing and acting really strange and now it won’t start again, no spark. I know that the cam is turning the rotor so it can’t be a broken timing belt and if it was a bad or slipped timing belt I would still get spark, right? I feel that I have to rule the distributor out as a cause but have no idea where else to look. Any suggestions (short of burning the truck) would be much appreciated. Thanks Terry Scott

When can I order one!

My fan started making noise, and its amazing, turning up the stereo did make it go away, I love those easy fixes.

I just got done with the whole tune up oil change thing, I didnt change my wires, the stock Pathfinder wires are pretty stout and the boots and distributor clips were all in great shape. I had bought a set of Accel 8mm triple silicon wires and put the ohm meter on them and compared it to my stock wires and the Pathfinders had less resistence then the accels so I took them back and stuck with my old ones. I did splurge on the Bosch+4 plugs at the tune of $5 each but well worth it if the hype is true. I havnt noticed a dramatic change but I didnt have any complaints prior to the tune up, one thing, it was really hard to get the spark plugs out, I think they were the original NGK, the threads were gritty and looked rusted but the new ones went in with no problem.

I live in Kent as well, if you head up Highway 410 toward Crystal MT past Green Water you will find a ton of loging roads, I got lost for 4 hours one day just driving all over the place, never saw anouther person. Up MT Rainier on the Carbon Glacier side you will find an ORV park, my 88 is stock except for 31X10.50 tires I got a little nervous but did fine, I had a guy in a choped up Toyota warn me that I would get stuck in my "stocker" but never even got close. Go Pathfinder! Terry

I would detail out the whole engine compartment and replace all gaskets that have any potential to leak. Maybe trick the firewall with diamond plate?? Go big it may be your best opportunity

I put a 160 degree thermostat in a vehicle calling for a 190 and it ran hot all the time, it prevents the water from staying in the radiator long enough to cool. The symptoms were the same, bounce between 220 and 190 all the time.

Ok..After hours of torment I've decided to go the adult way, order headers now, lift kit in the spring, brush guard and lights around Feb. I am still looking for a good shop just to avoid the inevitable broken stud if I try it myself.

Thorleys Summit part number DTE 464-1 $329.00

I called summit about the headers, about 6 weeks out. I have been talking to local shops about doing the work for me, I haven’t found one yet that seemed that interested in helping me out. If anyone knows a good exhaust shop in the Seattle area let me know.

Well I appreciate all the input, and of course the voice of reason is to fix the leak first, I have a small tick that goes away in a minute or two after starting the engine but I should deal with that. I found a smitty built brush guard for $224 and Summit has a set of 4 100w round driving lights for 124.95 so I was thinking of doing that for now and adding the lift in the spring since I have to do it in the driveway. I don't care about speed but want a good running engine which so far has not been a problem, it's an 88 but only has 66 k on it, I already changed the timing belt but everything else seems tight.

OK, I am on the verge of ordering a 3" lift kit, I have read all the postings and am still frozen with indecision. I should put headers on and dump my stock exhaust manifold before doing the lift but the cool factor is winning me over big time. What to do, what to do.

My damage is no where near that bad. Still sucks. Waiting to here from insurance in regards to what it's going to cost me.

I was involved in a little fender bender last weekend and figured if I was going to replace a hood and fender I might as well go with fiberglass. Not only would it lighten up the front end but I could fabricate a snorkel through the fender pretty easy. Just a heads up, I rear ended a 84 Mercedes Benz, it was sitting still and I was going about 20 mph, I have slight hood, driver side fender damage, the MB was pretty bad, back end smashed about a foot or more in and booth rear tail light sections destroyed. If I had a bush guard I would have probably been fine. Testament to the strength of the Pathfinder. I have pictures if anyone is interested.

Hey all I am looking for a place to buy fiberglass body parts for my 88 Pathfinder. I want a hood and L/R fenders. If you have any sources I would be in your debt. :help: Thanks Terry

Screw it, if you want to see my pics go here. http://community.webshots.com/album/189697068XQvmWz

When I preview my post the picture is present, when I submit it for posting it's not!! Whats up?

I think I got it figured out.

Never mind, I guess I got it figured out.

I asked about a rack for my 88 at Nissan and the said the roof was not designed for a rack so it lacks mount points for a rack install. I'm interested in how you mounted because I want a rack bad.