martin_nv

Thanks for the reply guys, and for that excellent post on how to re-index, Precise1! I'll take another stab at it tomorrow after work.

Hi Guys, I'm trying to adjust the torsion bar because all of a sudden the front is riding really low. I did read quite a few of the threads on this board beforehand but many of them refer to instruction on pages that no longer exist. So I was going by this one: http://www.nissanoffroad.net/how_to/torsion_bars/torsion_bars.asp In figure 2 it says to loosen the lock nut by turning it clockwise. When I do this, the whole thing, including the whole adjuster bolt, and also the bottom nut, turn. I was under the impression that the torsion nut (bottom nut on the top) is welded to the frame. Is something broken? Should I proceed to turn the top nut anyways by holding the adjuster bolt with a socket wrench? Also, by the looks of the threads on the adjuster bolt, it seems that the top bolt should be turned in a counter-clockwise direction (looking from on top) to loosen it. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

I replaced the fluid, pumped the clutch a few times, and now it's drivable again, woohoo! Now I'm wondering how hard it is to replace the clutch master cylinder, is there much to it? Thanks everyone for your help, this is a great community!

Thanks nunya, I'll fill it and hopefully it will be enough for me to drive it to the shop.

Looking at it further, there is some fluid leaking on the inside where the shaft from the clutch goes into the engine compartment. Also, at the drivers-side rear of the engine compartment, there is a small reservoir that is empty. Is this the slave cylinder? Can I just fill it up or is it more involved? Thanks.

Hi guys, I've been having some bad truck luck lately. Now my clutch is acting up again, I push the pedal to the floor but it won't disengage the clutch. 2 days ago it was fine, yesterday I started noticing it a bit but could still drive it, but today I can't drive it. I had the clutch replaced about 2 months ago, and the symptom at that time is exactly the same as now. I plan on getting it towed to the mechanic next week, but today is Sunday and I have time to look at it. Is there anything obvious that I can check? Thanks, Martin

Thanks for the replies guys, I kind of gambled and bought a new battery, since the one I had was 5+ years old. Engine start-up is noticably snappier now.

Hi Guys, hopefully this isn't too newbie-ish I parked my '92 Pathfinder at the ferry terminal early Saturday morning, then when I came back late Sunday night, it wouldn't turn over. I turned the key and it made like 2 or 3 lame cranks. Ok, dead battery I thought. Fortunately, the people next to me getting into their car just got off the ferry as well and I asked them for a jump. He had his car running and then when I tried to start mine it still was barely cranking like it was a weak battery still. Fortunately it had just enough umph to get it turned over and I was able to make it home . This morning, after last night's 45 minute drive home from the ferry, it started fine again. I thought for sure that it would be the battery, but if it was that, then it would have started up no problem with the jumper cables, no? Could it be the starter? Over the last couple of months I have noticed it not turning over as quickly as it used to and up til now I was sure it was the battery, since it is >5 years old. Any insight would be appreciated! Thanks, Martin

Good news, I looked at the "Door lock timer" box again (above the rear driver's wheel), this time with an ohm meter. Sure enough, one of the solder connections which looked ok was not, so I re-soldered it, and the locks work again! No more reaching to the other side of the car to let the passenger in!

Thanks for the reply, 88P, I pulled out the master switch, but there was nothing obvious. I'll pull it out again on the weekend and see if i can open it or something.

Hi Guys, My door locks on my '92 SE have been intermittent for the longest time, like 10 days working, 1 day not working, so it wasn't a big deal. Now they don't work at all. When I try to lock any door, either from the drivers console panel or by pushing the lock thingy on the door down, there is a clicking noise coming from near the driver's side rear wheel well. So I read up a few of the past posts about this topic and decided I should remove the "Door lock timer" box, which I did. I inspected it and it looked ok, re-soldered a couple of questionable looking joints and stuck it back in, but still no joy, just the clicking noise. Any other ideas on what I could try? Thanks, any help appreciated. Martin

Got the message, haven't checked that account in a while, oh well.

My horn sounds like a lame duck, i'm embarrassed to use it. A truck should have a better horn than that.

Ok yeah I guess I could cut the hole easy enough. Yes there seems to be quite a few places that sell them online, i'm just worried that they won't fit as well as the existing ones. Just looking for some recommendations I guess, if anyone has ordered any before.

I'm not sure, if the after market ones are close enough to the factory replacements than I'll go with those. I'd like to have the hole in the mat to keep it from sliding but I don't need the "Pathfinder" printing on it.