WiredWrong

Changed the differential seal, and kicked off some mud from the rear tire xD

Ive seen a few guys running with this type of set-up on a early 90's model. ​Mainly at mud mountain, though I've only seen a few over near elbe hills. Next time I see one of them I'll asked them to drop this topic a line. I can tell you that, I've spent over 8k on my 91 pathy. (mad max the banana's out of it ​) Only to watch it catch fire and burn down to a shell of what it once was. ​ If you doing a all leaf makes you happy, then do it. You can't put a price tag on happiness.

I agree the bondo job was very laughable, but now you've seen it all. sanded some of the bondo off, and found the only thing wrong with it, is center pillar. The pillar was bent inward at in slight angle. ​I could take the doors off ... sand the doors off and replace the center pillar. Then the problem would be fixed. ​ If I recall, oemautopartsandaccessories sells them for around 240ish. ah yes, that was the guy! thanks. ​If I did do something like that. I would do it right, or to safety standards. Ill draw up some ideas and go from there.

Been trying to sell this pathfinder since I got back from over seas. http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/5566057763.html went from 2k ~ 600 and still no takers. At this point I might as well keep it and just make it a summer project truck. Thoughts on what I should do to it ? I was thinking, a body lift and chopping off the roof and wielding a roll cage in it I remember a guy did something like this some years ago here. I can't seem to find that post to it though ?

Did I miss some event or something while I was away ? Forums seems deader then a

every video I see of pathfinders the fuel tank is on E or near E

Here you go; alittle video editing but the sound is 100% of my old pathfinder dual exhaust system it's a automatic transmission with a heavy mod to transmission to get the rpm past 4k so it may sound odd to those who don't know my mod work [media=] [/media]

I agee with everyone here; sounds like a fart rocket/ rice burner if you do; if you want my two cents do a stight pipe Ill throw up a link if you want me to of me doing a duel piple with 2.5 on them and the sound of it but.... that got me into a -4 last time i posted it here

8. The fun part starts ( from this point on this should be done inside NOT outdoors ) 9. On the front of your dash you should have a twist knob ( adjusting your clock knob ) this knob has a tiny screw in it , unscrew and lift cab off as such 10. Push in tab for A - D you have to do this for both front and back 11. Now you removed the clear lid 12. Flip the cluster on its face and do the same to tabs A-B on the black part (both front and back) 13. you may need to pry some on the black part; your thumb works wonders for such 14. Now you removed the black part ill add part two in a few days Preview up part 2

B.Cluster backround color change (night lights) Things needed 1. phillips screwdriver 12'' or 6" 2. flat-nose pliers 3. precision screwdriver set 1. Remove screws from A-D 2. Place both hands under A and B like so and pulling 3''s out till the speedo disconnects from the cluster you'll hear a light pop 3 Now push in and tilt till you can place you thumb on A. 4. now pull down on A. and let the cluster lay on the steering column WARNING* be sure you remove the POS cable from your battery before touching wires 5. With your flat-nose pliers remove A-D most times you can remove them with your hands but D. is a pain without pliers ( when removing the wires please note the circuit board is cheap Plasic so if you can't remove A or C don't get mad and rage over it cause if you rip the circuit board your sol and your going to have to buy a whole new one cluster 6. Do the same for A & B 7. All together you should have removed six main wires

Time for a update; This is going to be a bit scattered but a how-to/overall etc. A.Steering wheel removal B.Cluster backround color change (night lights) more to be added as I have time to write this stuff up and edit pictures etc. A : Steering wheel removal Things needed 1. phillips screwdriver 12'' 2. harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller 3. breaker bar 4.13-16mm sockets 1. Remove the horn cover 2. Remove the locking bolting holding the steering wheel to the steering column 3. Size the two screw holes for A & B (the bolts sould have came with the ( steering wheel puller ) 4. Screw the rod into the main part of the puller. 5. Remove move the bolts from C. ; now put bolts in the main part of the puller B. ; screw into the holes in step 2 size 13mm socket (don't over tighten them) ; now tighten A. by hand till the steering wheel puller is tight with the steering wheel; use the breaker bar with a 16mm socket on A. to break it free of the steering column 6. It should look like this now 7. Congrats you removed your steering wheel Part two of this will be added when I get back to needing a steering wheel

I love the way you think mate; I do think its worth dropping in a chevy 350 small block. A lot of modifications can be done to it Vs. the 3.0; but on the other hand the gas guzzler would not be on the daily drive list . I would be dying to know what kind of intake manifold /carburetor combo you stick in it

I just got done rewiring the "lighting switch/ASCD set switch, the wiper and washer switch"; (aka combination switch) moved them off the steering column, now i've got a parasitic drain somewhere from point A to point B. Think it might be in the cruise control wiring; might just remove the whole cruise control system, never use it anyrate. Going to relocate the whole ignition cylinder system later on in the week so this helps alot nunya

Does anyone know where I can find this book or the pdf. file ? I'm doing massive rewiring of my whole system and i don't feel like playing burn my truck down cause I wired something wrong (<---lol's at user name)

Rewired and moved the lighting switch/ASCD set switch; the wiper and washer switch too Kind of lame to have it on your steering column

I would have to agree with the lines are "pressurizing", I've removed about everything from the inside of my truck that is not bolted down . So when you turn the key over to the "on position" I can hear my lines pressurizing"; before I crank it over . this may not apply to you cause I dropped the main fuel tank and added a 1/4 fuel tank for weight reasons.

Good Job Mate !

I get about 16mpg on highways and about 10 in city; seems that my pathy is worse then my 79 dodge XD

Was rewiring my truck, got mad after hot metal stuff fall on arm, hulk raged and ripped out the center console

yeah , BigMike did a write up on Replacing Your Starter on a 1987-95 . Its in the General Topics > > The Garage > How-To's under replacing your stater on a 1987-95 . Good luck on the removal

Mines the best of them all , flat black rattle can style

It's a tight squeeze , you should be able to remove it from the side . You removed the heat shield from the exhaust headers right ? also try relocating some of the lines that may be in the way . I'm sure someone else will post more ways to do it but this has worked for me a number of times in the past .

Thats so BA man- taking a plan and putting it into action . Going from cutting the roof off adding tubing and adding rag a top takes some big gonads . Got to admire the time you put into it Hope it handles the way you want it to on the dunes .

thats a no go on the amp .