dkpath96

I cleaned and tightened the neg cable tonight. I can still get the cable to turn a little even with the clamp screwed on to its max. In other words, I can't get it super tight. But, for the first time, the clock and radio presets were remembered, at least for a few minutes. It seems to forget them when I start the vehicle. Could it be that when I start the vehicle, the battery shakes a little and loses connection just enough to reset stuff? This seems absurdly improbable to me, but I can't think of any other way with the evidence I now have.

Ok, I will check and tighten the battery cable. The dealer wants to try a software upgrade, then possibly replace the radio unit. Thankfully, all under warranty.

I recently entered the world of R51 ownership, after 12 years of driving the R50. My family is growing, and 3rd row seating was a priority. We got a 2011 SV. On the way home, I set the radio presets and adjusted the clock. When we stopped for dinner that night, we climbed back in and started down the road, then noticed that the presets were gone and the clock was wrong. No matter how many times I set these, they get reset to factory after turning off the vehicle. I checked the battery storage fuse/switch to make sure it was not in "storage" mode. Beyond that, I have no ideas. Anyone have suggestions before I return to the dealership next week?

While changing belts today, I noticed that I could slide the harmonic balancer's outer ring in towards the engine by a half inch or so. Does this mean it is shot?

How easily should the PS pump pivot after loosening its bracket and tensioner bolts? I can't seem to get it to budge.

So, this will be the second time my right front caliper has seized in the past two years on my 99.5. I had an older '96 and had to replace both front calipers on it. For some reason, I thought Nissan had fixed this problem with the R50 when they redesigned. Anyone have recommendations on a brand or make of caliper that won't seize up so often?

Hi, I am shopping for a clutch kit for my 1999.5 Pathfinder. Every online parts site I've been on does not have 1999.5 as a 'year' option, and I just wanted to make sure it was safe to select the 2000 model year. I've been getting two different clutch kit model numbers between 1999 and 2000. Pretty sure 2000 will work, but... Also, any OEM kits out there that I should avoid?? Thanks!

Anyone know where to find a switch for a 2000 SE, other than a dealer? Can't find one online. never mind, found it.

So i should check the wiring from the switch to the motor then, right?

Just now encountering a similar problem, where the passenger door window switch will put that window down, but not up. The master switch will put that window back up, though. I removed the switch, and the wiring harness has 12 volts on the 2nd and 4th wires, if I recall correctly, from the white wire. The switch has continuity between the power and the second and third posts when I operate the switch up or down, respectively. After I replaced the switch, it worked, surprisingly, but only for one up and down sequence, before quitting on me again. The window sounds like it is struggling more than the others when moving, so I am going to do the silicone spray thing next.

When I went to load some items into the vehicle later I found that the gate wasn't fully closed. Apparently, that was the problem, for it hasn't happened since.

Thanks, Towncivilian. I was able to find the side link and the cable. I can switch the selector to all positions only by assisting the side link with my hand (I can only get a few fingers inside the space between it and the ECU, and don't feel like removing the ECU...) It seems as though the knob can operate normally as I turn it clockwise, but going ccw, it jams up once I get to 'floor/def' and will not return to 'front' without my help. There must be a tension spring busted inside the heater unit or something. It will operate properly once or twice before jamming again, too, which is confusing. So I just rigged a wire to the side link so that when it jams I can just yank on it and get it back to the 'front' position...

I went to turn my vent switch to the 'dash' position from the 'floor/defrost' position yesterday and it clunked and now it won't turn. It's fine going from 'defrost' to 'floor/defrost', but no other positions work - there is strong resistance in trying to turn the knob, which I don't want to force for fear of really breaking something. Has anyone ever repaired this sort of thing? I took the console cover off, removed the stereo, and got the control knob panel loose, but I can't get it out due to the heater selector cable being attached (not sure how to detach it). Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!

Ok, I just came back from a weekend away from home, and my neighbor informs me that my '99.5 Pathfinder's alarm has been going off randomly all weekend. In fact, it did just that this morning and I ran out to turn the alarm off. When I get home I'll check the hood and door switches. The hood has had some body work done a few months ago but I can't imagine it would have just now started to cause problems. Anyone have any new suggestions?

Especially in light of the fact that they had my vehicle for 4 weeks, the last two of which all I heard was "a part is on order and isn't here yet". How could they miss an SES code after putting it all back together and driving it to the lot?? Anyhow, I'm going to make them do it right, then find someplace else next time. What gets me is I went with these guys a year ago (when a deer hit ME in the right rear panel) there were no problems whatsoever. Of course, that was a simpler fix.