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SurfPath

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2001 (Automatic)
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Screwdriver Mechanic
  • Your Age
    36-40
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year
    2001

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Island

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  1. Quick update: The economics of my location probably dont translate well elsewhere, but here is a final update. I went ahead and had new control arms installed by the dealer (seems like a waste, eh). The cost for purchasing/installing the cheap Chinese bushings would have been 40% less than what I paid for, but would have taken 2-5 days of working with bush mechanics and amateur machine shops. In the end the new arms took 1 hour to install. In my view the saved time was worth it. If I was more DIY capable I would have gone the other route. I wonder what else lies ahead for my 2001 R50 (107,000 Km) as far as replacement parts, issues. I will check out some of the other threads to see what the common issues are. Cheers, SP
  2. OK, thanks to all for the helpful, diverse, input. I plan to now get a labor quote on the installation of the generic 'chinese' bushings (one from the dealer and one from an alternate mechanic). I will also ask a few of the minivan bus drivers about their experience with those cheap bushings, how long did they last, etc. Even if I get 3-5 years out of them I'll be happy. Then again, I don't want their installation messing up anything else on the front suspension. Cheers, SP
  3. Sorry, I live on a tiny island with no "chain" auto stores. Supplies are limited on everything. It'd be difficult for me to get a US bought part shipped in on time (it'd take a few months & 100%+ charge at customs). But are front control arm bushings that 'generic'? (ie, can be shared by most large vans/trucks/pickups/SUV's?)
  4. Well, after a routine oil change & service my dealer tells me that all 4 front control arm bushings on my 2001 Pathfinder (107,000 kilometers) need to be replaced. I hadn't noticed any steering/suspension issues, but I now notice much heavier wear on the outside of my newish front tires (esp. compared to the rear tyres). As many others who have posted on this forum have experienced, Nissan dealers will only sell you new complete control arms (as opposed to just the bushings). The dealer's cost for the 2 (front L & R) control arms is $683 US not including labor (note I am located outside the US). Many here have tried out the harder poly bushings. They look great, except that it'd be difficult for me to get these where I'm located (it'd take a few months to have them shipped in, & need to use my path for daily driving). What I do have access to here are chinese manufactured generic bushings: $82 US for the set of 4. The Nissan dealer actually referred me to these, saying that other pathfinder owners have used these before (they are popular with minibus drivers), but that "they don't last long" (ie. certainly as long as the genuine nissan bushing). I think they referred me to the cheap parts because I have been a loyal customer for years and they know that I am financially very strapped right now. They said they'd even install these chinese rubbers. My research tells me that replacing the Pathfinder control arm bushings (esp. with another rubber bushing) is not a simple process. Sadly, I am not an auto DIYer and can't do the project myself. What are your general thoughts. Shall I just drive around for a month on the old bushings and eat ramen noodles in order to save for new complete control arms? I had them move the rear tires to the front. Or shall I get the Chinese rubbers and have the dealer stick me with (probably) a fair amount of labor? I drive about 15-20k a day Thanks! SP
  5. Welcome to the forum. Where about in NE Fla? I lived in G'ville for 12 years. Now moved to the Caribbean. Have me a 2003 Pathy with a big Gator sticker on it. Though most folks here have no idea what college football is about...."What's that crocodile for?"
  6. Again, good advice Scott. American Airlines checked luggage restriction is 62" (total LxWxH) so the 58" could be challenging to fly with. But, as you say, I could customize them with a saw before the trip back. I'm also researching getting just the Yakima mounts and then making the crossbars down here. I suppose that could be another option. Cheers.
  7. Awesome Scott, That you have it mounted on a 2003 Pathy made it even better. A couple of related questions: 1) Did you consider any other rack (I was also considering the Yakima 'low rider')?My link. 2) Since I have to fly with my rack, I was hoping to get crossbars that would just fit my needs (carrying a kayak/the occasional lightish load of wood). A few minutes ago I took my not-so accurate office ruler and measured 36" between the rails with the rails themselves being 1.5" thick. The Yakima comes in a 48" and then 58" with nothing in-between. Do you think the 48" will be OK for me? Cheers, and thanks again for the photo. ps. I also intend to get a pair of crossbar pads (My link) so I can carry my kayak.
  8. Another option is the Yakima Railgrab rack. Here's the link: My link. and a photo of it installed...My link What do you think? Does anybody have a pathfinder R50 with one of these on top? Post a photo if you do. Thanks!
  9. Nice set up! That's exactly what I'd like to get. But, back to reality....I live in the caribbean. There are NO roof rack dealers here. Any rack that I ship here will be charged 100% duty and take months to arrive and about 2 days of work to clear. Basically, I need to fly with my rack. So, no fancy heavy duty rack for me. But then again, I think I'll only need to transport light-ish loads such as a couple sheets of ply & a dozen 2 X 4's. The last time I needed to bring home a load like that I just strapped the ply to the Pathy roof rails and tied down the 2 X 4's on top. Hey, maybe a sheet of ply is all I need...I don't need a roof rack after all! But, seriously, I'd prefer something a little more versatile and permanent. If it looks good on the 2003 Pathfinder as well, that'd be great. On the Thule site, one of the racks they recommended for the 2003 Path is the "Thule45050." Amazon has more to say, including a reviewer who said they had some difficulty installing it (!). Here is the link to the review on Amazon: My link Any thoughts on this rack (or Thule Racks in general)??
  10. I've got a 2003 R50 with factory rails and I'd like to add a roof rack so that I can transport loads (< 100-140 lbs), such as plywood sheets & 2 X 4's. Other misc info that may be useful: got a moon-roof (does it matter?), and I'd prefer cross bars that I can transport fairly easily (in a large suitcase-duffel?) since I live in the out-islands and would prefer to fly them in with me. Any nice roof racks out there that would fit my needs?
  11. Hi Update on the bodywork repair..... Read related Post They did a great job on the Hurricane damaged side panel, the Lampost rear bumper dent was 95% repaired and my wife's door/moulding ding looks new. I was worried that they'd be able to match the paint (no fancy computers where I am located), but it's hard to tell the difference now. The main point is that if you get into a scrape some of these bodywork guys can do magic. Click on image below if you can't see the thumbnail.
  12. Yup Geoff, It bowled that lamp post straight over. I barely noticed it. In fact I continued to drive off. It was the stares of a few work mates that made me stop. ps. thanks for the ordering tip on the panel. Looks like it will cost a lot to get a new one from Nissan. pss. Any one, especially stateside, with ideas about where I can get a panel for cheap in the US? Cheers
  13. OK, Last one the repair list (all the ghost are coming out of the closet) This one was (OK, I'll admit it) my fault. Right after the hurricane I backed over, and knocked down, a lamp post at work! The crazy thing, and I remember this as if it were yesterday, I did not feel a thing, just a slight tap. These Pathfinders are well built and well insulated. I contend that if you ever hear a slight impact nose in a Path, it's likely to be something bigger. Pictures of the damaged bumper (will require pulling out the steel "girder" behind the bumper), and the KO'd lamp post attached! [quote name='Pezzy' date='Oct 29 2008, 08:54 AM' post='347111'] Ouch, that's a good one. I gave that same rear quarter panel a good dent (they don't like being slammed up against muddy walls... who knew??). Mine was closer to the tail light... Simon managed to reshape it by taking of the interior panel and pushing it back out. It's almost back to it's original shape, much better than the dent! (and it was free!)
  14. Vengeful, Thanks. I'll take a look under, as you said. I also have another ding at the back. This time mother nature. Just after I got the Pathfinder we had a Cat 4 Hurricane. The next morning I noticed this dent. I have not repaired since (things take a long time to get done here). But I figured I'd get it done now that I have another. Any ideas on this one. I think they will just try to "suction cup" the dent out. Surfpath.
  15. Thanks for the link Pezzy I am downloading it now, Aha, it's called the exterior "Side Guard Molding," "SEC. 766" I wonder if this is a part number? Either way, the info will help if I am to order it. Yes, the door hinge itself got bent, causing it to drop about 4cm when it's opened and making it difficult to close. The metal door panel at the 'impact site' is also dinged a bit. I will ask a local shop to fix these (one guy said the hinge could be bent back?) Actually the plastic 'dent' on the panel has popped back out now, but it is still misshapen, expecially at the crease. It's pretty amazing what some of these local shops can do. It's because of the cost of importing parts (and cars). When you buy a car here you typically have to "buy another one" for the Tax Man. Any other suggestions on my repair would be appreciated. Cheers.
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