Madcat

As crazy as I am, I would go so far as to twin-charge it. Have the supercharger for the low-end and a turbo for the mid-high to high-end range. All Im doing now is strictly research, waiting for income to build up before I mess around. Ill go so far as to buy an arc welder and make custom headers myself. A downstream turbo IS tempting, Id definitely get myself a skidplate. I was thinking of using a turbo on the left-hand side of the engine and using a crossover pipe for the right-hand side.

*Bump* I just reassembled my TBI from the bone. I used AirTex 2G1089, bought off RockAuto. It has all the parts needed for a TBI rebuild. Heres some photos of the TBI, you can browse around and see me "wrecker".

Wow what a coincidence. I was going to ask too about headers. The problem with me though, is that I want to turbocharge my VG30. Id would strongly prefer headers with a turbo port, but have no clue where to find them. Might be a custom job, anyone know?

Well the Dorman's from pepboys are overpriced to hell and I lied about them being "wrong sized". Im kinda at a loss looking for these 300zx studs. I cant find them on Z31parts.com. Im thinking of getting the metric set stud kits from ARP. But in my stupidity I threw away all the studs before measuring them....

I forgot to mention before, I got a reply from rockauto about the TBI Kits. They said that the airtex and standard kits are the same. Theyre both good brands, so I guess Ill go for the Airtex one. Regarding the studs, I just looked at ARP and I like what I see. Its crazy but I plan to overhaul the engine to get a nice "oomph". Eventually Im gonna turbocharge it, so Im gonna replace all bolts and replace certain bolts with studs. Heh I wonder how much it would cost to get custom studs from ARP. I wouldnt even know where to start when getting measurements.

Awesome thread dude, this MUST be stickied. I was planning to just take some large pics then add some text but this is much better. I have to acquire a scanner. I can try to scan in all the pages for the TBI adjustments. The only nag I have is the text. Some of the text is blurred, and the red makes it blend in with the picture quite a bit. Maybe different colors? Other than that, the photos are good. Im gonna do some experimenting on the TBI for the hell of it. Ive gutted the heater core, plan to replace the A/C solenoid with a bolt, and not use the coolant lines going through the TBI.

I folded and had to buy a stud kit from Dorman in a Pep Boys today. Is Dorman a good brand?

Im not sure if the service manual I have IS a factory service but it gets pretty verbose about the Pathy. Im having some problems with my pal's digi camera, so Ill try to find another way to take pictures. If I had a scanner I'd scan the manual too.

Would be it ok for you MY1PATH if I beat you to it? I have a tbi totally cleaned out and disassembled. I need a TBI gasket kit, but I can still take some photos. My buddy's camera is a few years old but takes some big pics.

Hey folks I need a bunch of gaskets since Im doing a cleanup of the engine after some SERIOUS carbon buildup. So far doing good. One kit I need is a TBI kit. On Rockauto there are two kits: AIRTEX Part # 2G1089 and STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # 1697 The airtex one doesnt have a preview, so I have no idea what the kit contains. On autozone theres a GP-Sorenson kit, but I have no clue about the quality. What do you guys know about any of the TBI kits for the VG30I? The second topic is exhaust manifold studs. You can guess why Im changing my studs. What are the good studs out there, improved OEM or aftermarket. Any good studs that arent 5 bucks a piece, Im happy with. Ok maybe 5 bucks a piece if need be.

All Hail Eddie! \m/ >_< \m/ Oh and yesterday I sawed off one of the exhaust pipes. Right-hand cylinder head is off. I was right, black as night because of carbon. Going to fully disassembly and clean out oil sediment and valve seats.

I just got to a new roadblock: the exhaust pipes. The bolts are rusted solid. Im tempted to saw them off because they look rotted. On a side note, youre a metalhead right Grim? Any song off the top of your head involving curses..mummy or otherwise?

Im lucky that I was unemployed for quite a while. They needed to do finanical aid anyway to be sure that I wouldve been eligible. My hand is ok today but two days ago my hand was pounding. Im sorry but full contact of fist to someones face feels great until the day after. No regrets, yar!

What started as a spark plug change ended up as a 10 second inferno, which lead to the discovery of a carbon deposits up the ass. I have a story for you folks, enjoy the read: About a month and a half ago I wanted to do some basic maintenance on the engine. I did the distributor cap and rotor months ago, so I figure its time to change sparks and cables. While doing all this I accidently sprayed some castrol metal cleaner into the throttle opening. I needed to degrease the engine a bit because garbage was in the spark plug pits. I ended up dislodging a lot of carbon deposts in the intake manifold and on the intake valves, which eventually caused the valves to leak and the engine to sputter until stalling. I came to this conclusion after disassembling my TBI and intake manifold. Found out the EGR valve vacuum line was off and plugged with a screw. So either the EGR valve was stuck open or closed, getting the engine dirty at idle. I had to flood the engine with ga, then crank. I had to do this several times to get as much crap out of the cylinders as possible. It worked pretty well, enough to get the engine back to life. At one crank I forgot to unplug my ignition coil from the transistor side and FWOOM! Raging inferno from all the gas splashed on the engine. A neighbor went "Holy Sheet!", I bolted inside of the house, and out lugging an extinguisher. Next thing theres a cloud of extinguisher dust and an untouched engine. Im not kidding, the engine was untouched, only some slightly melted wires. Hosed it down with water and flushed the engine again to prevent rusting. Progress has been very slow on removing the heads because Ive always come up to some stubborn or difficult step. I was stuck for a week trying to remove the damper, and two days improvising to unbolt the cam sprockets. Bought a puller for the damper and used a chain wrench and a rag to unbolt the cam sprockets. You can only get so far when you work with some machines or devices because of some torque or requirement for a special tool. Even if I wasnt going to that auto school, Id still be removing the heads off the engine. Im just much less paranoid about it as Im going to school for it. No matter what, I have to be careful, a lot of the parts are seized together and need to be tapped loose. This engine has never had this kind of service done to it since it was being assembled 20 years ago in Tennessee. Im opening a tomb here, maybe something in bandages will pop out.

Yesterday I poked around to see the current thermostat. It looked pretty damn good, but I changed it anyway. One in there was 171F while new one was 170F. Both were German and USA made so no big deal. Ill find out if this new thermostat isnt so good when I get the engine up and running.

Hey folks. My bad for not keeping in touch so much. Ive been reading the forums on and off but a busy and irritating life have been in my way. Here's my rundown: -3 months ago I worked for a moving company until I quit 3 weeks ago. I wasnt even paid half of minimum wage, so screw them. -Buddy of mine convinced me to go with him to some WorkForce1 seminar, I thought we were going to find jobs in JFK airport. -I end up taking the offer for diesel mechanic, a full-paid scholarship. School is in Jamaica, Queens. -Im in school right now just starting my 2nd class, so far its been great. -Few days ago clocked a neighbor for arguing about MY car in front of MY house. Left hand still hurts. Long-term crap: -Had to keep pathy in front of house on the street because nobody offers me a driveway or garage to save me insurance money. -The crappy weather and constant rain have been hampering my progress for months. -Still havent changed clutch, priorities changed to upper engine tear-down and massive cleanup. Yeah I think that covers most of it. I got another thread just for the cylinder head removal. Its good to be back. I hunger for knowledge of pathfinder of yesteryears.

Hey folks. This past Friday we got slammed with a nice snowstorm. I couldnt drive in 4WD because of a torn CV boot. Im still waiting for the boot in the mail. Managed to crash into a concrete barrier too! Ill have some pics up eventually. After many fishtails and donuts, I mustve burned something because a friend and me smelled something awful. Im suspecting either the tranny fluid or the clutch material. When I tried to shift, I couldnt get into any gears, even with clutch pedal completely down. I had to get into gear with the engine off to move anywhere. When I would start to move I would hear and feel chattering, although I couldnt figure out if it was the tranny or the rear diff. Its been 3 days since, so Im gonna go out and see if the car is still movable. Im hoping the clutch has some life in it still, was HARDLY abused these past 20 years until I got my hands on it. Fortunately I bought before my MT-90 fluids, so I can at least change the fluid.

Since Im unemployed again my time is immense. I have the sidewalk in front of the house, so that will do nicely. Like you said, if Im working on the timing belt, why not do the rest. Ive ordered the thermostat, its gasket, and bypass hose, Im not so sure about the water pump though. Im thinking of removing the guard plate so I can get lower access. I think I should considering the condition of the bolts. Now I just need to find appropriate bolts, maybe even a new guard plate. As for the fan, I notice different counts of washers on the fan coupling to the water pump, Ill just copy it when I put the fan back in. BTW folks, RockAuto.com is freaking fast. It took them, no-lie, one day, to send me those sparkplugs and wires. I ordered them yesterday at 3AM EST (late night video games) and got them today at 1PM EST.

Good thing Im changing the distributor cap and rotor. I just checked and the rotor has some life left, but rusty tip. The distributor cap, well, the terminals crumbled a bit when I touched them. Good thing Im changing those, as now the car wont start. Ah well.

The incompetent people in the auto stores around here wouldnt know how to search for parts, let alone cross reference. Me being a computer geek, Im better off taking the console from them and searching for the parts on my own. The autozones around here arent so bad. I cant blame them though, they tried literally for an hour to find the AIV system for the 86-89 pathfinders, and I was in absolutely no rush. Well I did get Denso sparks and wire set RockAuto and Ill hunt for Nissan OEM in the stores. If not, I get some good aftermarket parts. As for Advance Auito, I hear them often on the radio but the nearest one is 9 miles away in New Jersey. Too congested and I gotta pay a bridge toll. I wouldnt mind as I like to drive but nah.

When I do the timing belt job, and the tensioner looks good according to the service manual, should I still change it. The pathy has 87k miles on it, would it be good to change the water pump as well?

Hey folks. Ive got a shopping list of crap to replace and fix on the old pathy. Im having trouble deciding brands though. Ive got to change brake pads and shoes, distrubtor rotor and cap, drive belts, timing belt, and fuel filter. Ive already got my Denso plugs and wires. I might go with OEM fuel filter and belts, but I dont see many cheap websites. Im also looking for good and cheap torque wrench. Any suggestions? As long as its under $100. Thanks folks.

Yep, did that. Nobdody around here could find them for the car and not even find them by themselves in the store's useless databases. In the NY areas, youre better off DIYing yourself online for the part orders.

Im debating whether to get some NGK Iridium or Denso Iridium spark plugs and wire sets. Does anyone know of Denso and how good they are? Read somewhere that the Densos are really good regarding the Iridium plugs.

Hey guys, bonus. Rockauto has NGK Iridiums for around $7.01. Still poking around for different prices on plugs and wire sets.