Jump to content

Madcat

Members
  • Posts

    37
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Madcat

  • Birthday 02/15/1986

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    88 Pathy with babied VG30I and well-used 5speed.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1988

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bronx, NY USA
  • Interests
    Computers, PC games, cars, girls, buffalo wings, and beer. Typical caveman, right?

Madcat's Achievements

NPORA Newbie

NPORA Newbie (1/5)

2

Reputation

  1. As crazy as I am, I would go so far as to twin-charge it. Have the supercharger for the low-end and a turbo for the mid-high to high-end range. All Im doing now is strictly research, waiting for income to build up before I mess around. Ill go so far as to buy an arc welder and make custom headers myself. A downstream turbo IS tempting, Id definitely get myself a skidplate. I was thinking of using a turbo on the left-hand side of the engine and using a crossover pipe for the right-hand side.
  2. *Bump* I just reassembled my TBI from the bone. I used AirTex 2G1089, bought off RockAuto. It has all the parts needed for a TBI rebuild. Heres some photos of the TBI, you can browse around and see me "wrecker".
  3. Wow what a coincidence. I was going to ask too about headers. The problem with me though, is that I want to turbocharge my VG30. Id would strongly prefer headers with a turbo port, but have no clue where to find them. Might be a custom job, anyone know?
  4. Well the Dorman's from pepboys are overpriced to hell and I lied about them being "wrong sized". Im kinda at a loss looking for these 300zx studs. I cant find them on Z31parts.com. Im thinking of getting the metric set stud kits from ARP. But in my stupidity I threw away all the studs before measuring them....
  5. I forgot to mention before, I got a reply from rockauto about the TBI Kits. They said that the airtex and standard kits are the same. Theyre both good brands, so I guess Ill go for the Airtex one. Regarding the studs, I just looked at ARP and I like what I see. Its crazy but I plan to overhaul the engine to get a nice "oomph". Eventually Im gonna turbocharge it, so Im gonna replace all bolts and replace certain bolts with studs. Heh I wonder how much it would cost to get custom studs from ARP. I wouldnt even know where to start when getting measurements.
  6. Awesome thread dude, this MUST be stickied. I was planning to just take some large pics then add some text but this is much better. I have to acquire a scanner. I can try to scan in all the pages for the TBI adjustments. The only nag I have is the text. Some of the text is blurred, and the red makes it blend in with the picture quite a bit. Maybe different colors? Other than that, the photos are good. Im gonna do some experimenting on the TBI for the hell of it. Ive gutted the heater core, plan to replace the A/C solenoid with a bolt, and not use the coolant lines going through the TBI.
  7. I folded and had to buy a stud kit from Dorman in a Pep Boys today. Is Dorman a good brand?
  8. Im not sure if the service manual I have IS a factory service but it gets pretty verbose about the Pathy. Im having some problems with my pal's digi camera, so Ill try to find another way to take pictures. If I had a scanner I'd scan the manual too.
  9. Would be it ok for you MY1PATH if I beat you to it? I have a tbi totally cleaned out and disassembled. I need a TBI gasket kit, but I can still take some photos. My buddy's camera is a few years old but takes some big pics.
  10. Hey folks I need a bunch of gaskets since Im doing a cleanup of the engine after some SERIOUS carbon buildup. So far doing good. One kit I need is a TBI kit. On Rockauto there are two kits: AIRTEX Part # 2G1089 and STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # 1697 The airtex one doesnt have a preview, so I have no idea what the kit contains. On autozone theres a GP-Sorenson kit, but I have no clue about the quality. What do you guys know about any of the TBI kits for the VG30I? The second topic is exhaust manifold studs. You can guess why Im changing my studs. What are the good studs out there, improved OEM or aftermarket. Any good studs that arent 5 bucks a piece, Im happy with. Ok maybe 5 bucks a piece if need be.
  11. All Hail Eddie! \m/ >_< \m/ Oh and yesterday I sawed off one of the exhaust pipes. Right-hand cylinder head is off. I was right, black as night because of carbon. Going to fully disassembly and clean out oil sediment and valve seats.
  12. I just got to a new roadblock: the exhaust pipes. The bolts are rusted solid. Im tempted to saw them off because they look rotted. On a side note, youre a metalhead right Grim? Any song off the top of your head involving curses..mummy or otherwise?
  13. Madcat

    Me's back

    Im lucky that I was unemployed for quite a while. They needed to do finanical aid anyway to be sure that I wouldve been eligible. My hand is ok today but two days ago my hand was pounding. Im sorry but full contact of fist to someones face feels great until the day after. No regrets, yar!
  14. What started as a spark plug change ended up as a 10 second inferno, which lead to the discovery of a carbon deposits up the ass. I have a story for you folks, enjoy the read: About a month and a half ago I wanted to do some basic maintenance on the engine. I did the distributor cap and rotor months ago, so I figure its time to change sparks and cables. While doing all this I accidently sprayed some castrol metal cleaner into the throttle opening. I needed to degrease the engine a bit because garbage was in the spark plug pits. I ended up dislodging a lot of carbon deposts in the intake manifold and on the intake valves, which eventually caused the valves to leak and the engine to sputter until stalling. I came to this conclusion after disassembling my TBI and intake manifold. Found out the EGR valve vacuum line was off and plugged with a screw. So either the EGR valve was stuck open or closed, getting the engine dirty at idle. I had to flood the engine with ga, then crank. I had to do this several times to get as much crap out of the cylinders as possible. It worked pretty well, enough to get the engine back to life. At one crank I forgot to unplug my ignition coil from the transistor side and FWOOM! Raging inferno from all the gas splashed on the engine. A neighbor went "Holy Sheet!", I bolted inside of the house, and out lugging an extinguisher. Next thing theres a cloud of extinguisher dust and an untouched engine. Im not kidding, the engine was untouched, only some slightly melted wires. Hosed it down with water and flushed the engine again to prevent rusting. Progress has been very slow on removing the heads because Ive always come up to some stubborn or difficult step. I was stuck for a week trying to remove the damper, and two days improvising to unbolt the cam sprockets. Bought a puller for the damper and used a chain wrench and a rag to unbolt the cam sprockets. You can only get so far when you work with some machines or devices because of some torque or requirement for a special tool. Even if I wasnt going to that auto school, Id still be removing the heads off the engine. Im just much less paranoid about it as Im going to school for it. No matter what, I have to be careful, a lot of the parts are seized together and need to be tapped loose. This engine has never had this kind of service done to it since it was being assembled 20 years ago in Tennessee. Im opening a tomb here, maybe something in bandages will pop out.
  15. Madcat

    Thermostat

    Yesterday I poked around to see the current thermostat. It looked pretty damn good, but I changed it anyway. One in there was 171F while new one was 170F. Both were German and USA made so no big deal. Ill find out if this new thermostat isnt so good when I get the engine up and running.
×
×
  • Create New...