Kingman

The TBI trucks don't adjust base timing like the MPFI trucks do. So on his (TBI) there's some benefit to bumping the timing to 15° It's old school tried and true. An MPFI truck wouldn't see any benefit.

Could be an engine misfire

15° works great.

It's likely a bad sensor. Just about every Nissan we see of that era in the shop has a bad one, which keeps the light on.

Normal. Double clutch, let the clutch out a hair, or go 1-2-R.

Pinned in the garage section. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28134-wd21-d21-and-r50-lube-specifications/page-3?do=findComment&comment=747406

Lube Oil Filter

Agreed... I take it loose and let it drain out a such as it can while doing the rest of the LOF then come back to it. After that it's fine. Just gotta be careful is all.

3.5L for the win... right in front, at the right angle, and has a nice drip tray. I was stoked when I saw that. You'd have to try to make a mess.

I just checked the specs on that deck. It's rated power is at 4 ohms, not 2. However it doesn't say NOT to run 2 ohm speakers. In the aftermarket world, when dealing with power handling, the specs will be for 4, 2, or sometimes, 1 ohm loads so long as the unit is capable of it. Whatever a unit is rated at as far as ohm load is what it's designed to handle. Running any audio component with an amplifier beyond what it's designed for generates excess heat that it can't efficiently dissipate. The lower the ohm load on an amp, the more power it generates which turns into heat. It's common law to not run a lower ohm load than what an amp is designed to handle. You can run a higher ohm load no problem. I can't guarantee a failure like I said. However, I can guarantee it'll make more power but for how long? And to reiterate... if you return a deck with a burned out amplifier circuit due to heat they will know.

Welcome. Nice rig, post some pics of the progress. Portland. Nice, swooped up my R50 from there. I'm right across the bridge.

Mmmm hold on a second. If you run 2 ohm speakers you will need to find a deck capable of a 2 ohm load which I believe is basically impossible. Aftermarket decks are 4 ohm, you could very well damage the one you purchase by running the 2 ohm speakers directly from it... Not guaranteeing a failure here but if you need to warranty a deck, they will know who happened.

I LED'd the dome lights on the '04. Thinking about wiring the map lights to the dome lights as well but I'm tired of making LED strip circuit boards at the moment...

I have to wonder though, for street driving, what difference 2wd or auto would make. Seems to me auto would default to 2wd until it's necessary to engage the front. At that point with the hubs unlocked it wouldn't do any good anyways. Just theorizing...

All Mode selector

I believe that was debunked.

Not necessarily at you. It had been entwined the wiring diagrams suggest so which isn't the case. Honestly there's been quite a few times where the diagrams don't fully explain or are flat out wrong from what's really going on. It had cross over style circuitry with resistors and coils embedded into a circuit board. I didn't look close enough to decide if the speakers were in series or parallel. To me it looked like an over complicated cross over... typical of something factory. In another thread of Cham's I had mentioned that it's very possible the system is 2 ohm with very high sensitivity level speakers as that's how most manufacturers can get away with low power systems that sound decent. I had mentioned that due to this, replacing the speakers with 4 ohm or low sensitivity speakers may not sound good unless he went aftermarket for the amp. And yes you're spot on about subjective. One persons "good" can be trash to another's.

No it doesn't. It's huge.

Brake interlock is broke or stuck

The 6 wires go to the cross over/amp in the door. They do NOT go into the speaker. There's a plastic molded case that holds both the speaker and the cross over together as one nice package. The small black boxes with wires hanging off of them in my picture are the cross overs, the two larger speakers are the fronts. My aftermarket crossovers (Hertz) fit right in the factory enclosure. I had to do a lot of cutting to fit my Audison speakers but most all others fit fine. My aftermarket amp fits in the factory location and even mounts to the existing bracketry for it. Using the factory wiring, it handles all 4 channels. Pulling the door panel off to actually see what's going on is not hard to do instead of guessing at it. It'll make a lot more sense once you do. In all honesty, this is one of the easiest factory set ups to work with. Because there's basically zero tunability with the factory head unit there shouldn't be an active cross over anywhere. Passive- Head unit> amplifier> cross over> speakers Active- Head unit> cross over> amplifier> speakers

Six wires per door on mine. Two input to the cross over/amp. From there two to the woofer, and two going to the tweeter.

I still think they are cross overs and here's why... I was able to use the factory wiring to install my aftermarket component set. If the input + and - were in fact power and ground, it'd be impossible to make sound. They were labeled input + -, woofer + -, and tweeter + -. Input is a full range signal from the head unit or amplifier. This is standard for a cross over. There could be a year change with a different design and set up.

I tore my entire factory Bose system out of my '04. The front doors did not have an amp, it's a cross over like I had mentioned in another thread. The doors receive the full signal, then from there is split by the cross overs to the mid driver and tweeter. That's why I had said all you need to do is literally install the component set with the aftermarket cross over in the factory spot with the factory wiring.

I don't have much input other than this... There's a rough road going to you backside of a local town with lots of dips, bumps, and holes all at the same time. Its beat to crap. My '04 (R50) skitters all over the place going through there and often feels like the back end is going to step out. My '88 (WD21) stays planted. It's got a firm suspension and good rebound control. The '04 with stock suspension has neither, allowing the tires to hop and skitter over bumps which in turn reduces the amount of force on the ground to keep the rig steady. In all honestly I expected the exact opposite. I figured the soft suspension would absorb it all and the body wouldn't notice much, while the stiff suspension would throw the body around. Nope.