Kingman

Please disregard the previous post. It's been covered that he improperly installed Steve's parts. There are pictures to prove this. Take it with a grain of salt... actually don't even give it that. Many members on here have purchased his products and properly installed them with zero issue.

Try a new cap as well. If it's not maintaining the proper pressure in the system the boiling point will be much lower. Good coolant and a cap go hand in hand.

It's stuck between the little guide in the pan and the side of the block. There's enough room for the thin cable to move but not the blocky end.

Lol. I have the same issue. I currently check it by draining the oil out into a gallon jug here and there... Adding oil without a clue what's in it is not a good idea. Anything over 5 quarts in the motor and it'll airate at higher RPMs causing a drop in oil pressure. It's possible to pull the tube and clip the dipstick... hopefully the bottom part falls down and you can pull it out the drain plug hope with a magnet. Best case is obviously pulling the oil pan.

Front right is No.1 (passenger side). Make sure it's on the compression stroke, and try stabbing it with the rotor one tooth before the No.1 terminal in the cap.

Probably something big underneath the snow bank. That's just crappy luck when that happens...

Installed some Rugged Ridge manual hubs on the '04. Seems to cruise a lot easier. I shook the front end down and found some play in the LH ball joint. Also found the source of a squawk in the rear end on take off. Torn RH upper trailing arm bushing. Typical. I was going to do some new rack bushings but no sense in that yet when the oil cooler is leaking.

Having installed quite a few sets of poly bushings from both Prothane and Energy, on different makes, I'd say the lube is all but required. Rack bushings can be a royal bitch to install even with the lube. The lube won't harm anything once everything is tightened down... with or without it the bushings or rack will not move. On a non moving poly bushing, the lube only helps with installation and protection.

Well, if it aligned alright then there must not be any extreme damage... but still. I would think it would have brought the lower control arms closer together thus creating positive camber, or maybe in your case some exfessive toe which can also wear the inside of the tire.

Ours is a rather good remote reservoir design with hardly any issues as far as that goes. The only time I've had a problem with air lock is with the older Ford style pumps with the pump and reservoir as one unit (the ones that whine all the time). Those you sometimes let sit overnight with the cap off and try again in the morning.

Should bleed it's self out. If the leak is so big that the system can't build any pressure, that's a different story. But in that case it wouldn't hold fluid in the reservoir for long before running out again.

Well the brake fluid is obviously going somewhere. I can't imagine a hose leaking all the way to the front of the truck from the frame rail but it might. If your truck has rear drums I would pull them off and check for a blown out wheel cylinder. A bad master cylinder can leak fluid into the booster right behind it, those can hold quite a bit before leaking out however the fluid usually ends up leaking out where the two bolt together before that happens. Brake fluid eats paint and coatings , so if that is what's all over the place you may want to hose it off. Leaking brake fluid isn't something to be taken lightly... if that reservoir runs dry you will lose your brakes.

Replaced the rear coil spacers on the '04. The PO learned my lesson for me... do not use the rubber isolators!

Not really. The cylinder walls on the VG30 aren't very thick whereas the VG33 walls are... trying to bore a VG30 to a VG33 results in cracked blocks.

Mine has a 6" chunk that's not sealed on the outside. Never had a drop inside from it. It's double sealed, outside and inside plus drains. I do however sometimes have some moisture from the windshield seal that's shrunk and deteriorating. That's only in severe rain after sitting in it for a long time. Edit: Didn't see this was in the R50 section. I'm taking about my '88 with the flip up sunroof. No experience with the R50 other than maintaining clean drains.

Whoa, that's some misleading information if I ever heard any. The heads have nothing to do with compression... and actually the factory turbo motors have less. 7.8:1 for '84-'87 and 8.5:1 for 88-89. NA engines are 9:1. The camshafts are the same turbo vs. NA but differ from AB to W-Series motors, the older AB series being the better of the two but the W-Series head castings are updated and better designed.

JB Weld

The lower intake gaskets along with a few others are the same but you should really get a set for the TBI. Make sure you get lower intake gaskets that are metal with rubber o-rings. No sealing issues and they are reusable as long as they don't get screwed up... Head gaskets are a year range thing. Up to '3/87 is one style, '4/87+ are another regardless of injection. I wouldn't pull the heads off unless the new motor has an issue.

Correct

Crank Angle Sensor in the distributor. When you put the belt on were all the marks lined up with the tooth count 40 between the left and right cam gear marks and 43 teeth between the cam gear and crank? Engine at TDC on the compression stroke? Distributor rotor pointing at the NO. 1 terminal? If you don't know I'd suggest tearing it back apart and making sure it's right. There's a very thorough write up on timing belt jobs in the garage section along with a ton of info on the subject that may help. As well as self diagnostics.

How are you checking the distributor timing with a timing light on an engine that doesn't run? It needs to be running at 750-800RPM with the TPS unplugged for that. Having the belt a tooth off, I'll run but weak. I've never had one run with the distributor a tooth off, but some people have. If you have spark and injector pulse the CAS is good. Does it do anything at all or just crank? Pull the codes out of the ECU. If anything sensor related is amiss it'll know about it in a few revolutions of the starter.

Please ignore the tapatalk error messages and only post once.

So possibly sounds like something is shifting when you turn the wheels? A common issue with that is the front diff mounts being a little loose. May go over them and make sure they're tight. How are the inner tie rods (centerlink)? Ball joints?

If they make any noise they are bad, that's how you notice a bad CV. You'll also notice a bad CV when it explodes. Check the brakes and bearings. Is it a rotational click, or happens when you hit a bump?

Those 3 sensors share common grounds if I remember right, I would check that first thing. Sometimes knocking one sensor out can cascade effect into the others. An open ( bad sensor or wiring) CHTS will most certainly cause problems when hot, as will a CAS.