Kingman

I don't have anywhere on my dash that would indicate a door ajar. I'm wondering if only the later models had the door ajar light.

I got the truck back, they forgot to unhook the battery to re-set the ECU. That part is fine, BUT so much raw gas was being dumped into the exhaust that it totally messed up my catalytic converter, so it doesn't drive very well. It's just slow, very little power, sucks more gas, and just generally feels like I'm towing something and there's pressure on the engine. Can you believe this thing was sucking down 4.38 mpg since the sensor was bad? A half a tank of gas, and 46 miles. Good thing there's THIS to replace the stock CC! But I did get one thing done tonight, I buckled down and sprayed off my entire under carriage. I hoisted it up and took off all the wheels, put on some old shorts and goggles, climbed underneath and have 'er a whirl. By the time I was done, I was laying in a good 3 inches of mud. My whole side area next to my house was a mud slick. But the Pathy is spotless!

wow...lol

I've already tried everything the search turned up, washers, etc. The switch in the dome light is perfectly fine, so are the door jam switches, as I said. I don't know if the dome lights for the cargo area and front doors are separate, because they're always stuck on or manually turned off. So, are they separate or joined together? This is just something I'm just getting around to looking into, it's been like this since I bought it. Wait, my truck has a door ajar light?

Welcome! Was wonderin if I cold bum your turn signal lense from ya?? Just playin, rig looks like its in damn good shape!

It won't turn off unless I manually switch it to OFF, if I leave it on DOOR, it will stay on all night and drain my battery. Same with the rear cargo light. All my door switches move fine, I cleaned them up and it didn't make a difference. Is there some kind of relay, timer, anything that I can clean or replace to make my dome lights work? It's kind of a pain not having any light...

Not that I know of, I know some of the different models and what not have different looking seats, but I'm not so sure about the years making too much of a difference. I suppose you could buy them, try them, and if they don't work, return them. That way we'd all know

When I got it back, I checked everything to make sure it was all as it should be, and it was. As far as knowing if they replaced the sensor or not, I don't know. All I saw was the spec sheet when they ran the test with the numbers. I think they did replace it though, because the day that it went in the shop the tech had told me that noon was the cut-off for ordering parts, because the part wasn't around locally. I gave him the OK, and the next day (Thursday) I got a call mid-day that they had gotten the part and began working on it. I sort of doubt he was making it up, because this is a very well known shop and have VERY high levels of service. I disconnected the battery for about 15 min, just a random thing I thought out of luck might clear the ECU just in case, dumb I know. I had to drive it to the store today, down the road aways, and it ran fine. Fully warmed up, didn't act up the slightest bit. Strange. Guess we'll see. Good thing is, I get to drive my dad's F150 to school while the Pathy goes back in the shop

Rhett Atkins-Kiss My Country Ass

Yeah, moves fine and everything. I think they missed something, or something. It drove perfectly until it heated up like I said...thats the weird thing. It almost has to be the same sensor

Coolant temp sensor, that's what the problem was diagnosed as when the sensor was throwing 117 ohms instead of 2.7 ohms.

I let it sit for about 30 min, just went out to start it up and it started perfectly fine, no sputter, perfect rpm till it started to heat up again then it started doin its thing.

dammit, dammit, dammit. Just started doing it again, WTF. but for only like 2 or 3 seconds and then it would stop and then do it again. Ugh. Now when I start it, it sputters and blows black again. Can't get it back in the shop until monday...

Woohoo, got it back today. The shop charges $100 to change the plugs, and since they have been fowled 4 times now, and were sitting in gas for a few days, they had to be changed. It just wouldn't start. I told the guy I wasn't going to pay that just to have the plugs replaced, so he allowed me to come in and change them myself. Costless was having a good deal on NGK plugs, $1.19 a piece for the V-powers, which is the price of the crappy AutoLites. Fired right up after, and the exhaust no longer smelled rich like it always was, even when it wasn't having...issues. I was beginning to doubt his claim of the 117 amps of power, or ohms, whichever, so I had him show me the print out. Yeah, as the engine started to heat up, the sensor went nuts. Actually peaked at 179. Crazy huh? She's back, and running a whole hell of a lot better, has more power, doesn't bog, and I would assume better mileage now that the exhaust doesn't smell of gas, which I would assume it's not dumping as much gas into it on a regular basis.

What's the name of the shop you took it to?

That's exactly what it is. I replaced the thermosdat and coolant hoses almost a month ago, it was stuck and overheating like mad.

Just got the word. A Temp sensor inside the engine shorted out, giving the ECU 117 amps instead of 2.7-.3 amps. Basically, telling the computer it was -110 degrees in the Arctic. Therefore, flooding it out. Bad news: the sensor is INSIDE the engine, so they have to take basically the top end of the engine apart. $873.23 total.

Started acting up again, barely made it up a hill and died as I pulled into a parking lot to get it off the road. Then a few min later it started, and ran like crap and was blowing black, so I had a buddy follow me to school. I was barely able to nurse it there. Tow truck picked 'er up, and now I'm waiting to hear back from the shop. I took it to Ron's Automotive to see if they could find the problem when it wasn't acting up, they couldn't, but already have me on file and know all about it, so I'm priority. It was a cold mofo out this morning, I had ice on my windshield. Now to figure out how I'm going to get to school...

Z24 4 banger, or the 3.0 V6. Mine is the V6.

I'm not sure. I know it wont pass emissions without it, though. And if it's totally missing, the hole that it covers makes an extremely obnoxious noise. Hence why I stuck a cork in it till I could find one.

You can make anything work, it just depends on how much time, effort, and money you want to put into a project. I would just wonder if the engine is skinny enough to fit inside the engine compartment, and short enough not to interfere with the suspension

X2

Yeah, 8-10 are just things I threw out there, but they'd be nice You got it spot on with mother's day =P

Should have told them you were a Longshoreman, for the Port of Seattle The ports on the west coast use Americas Tire (Discount Tire) for all their tires, it's usually a 50-60% discount. I got 2 new all terrains that were usually $155 a piece for $82 a piece. Pretty good deal, eh? So with the discount, coulda gotten em for about $360 or so installed. Oh, they don't check to make sure you're telling the truth, I'd imagine since so little people know about this, they don't really pay attention. All I had to do was mention the Longshore discount, and he marked me off.

My mom knows how much I've been struggling to save up and pay for parts for my Pathy, so she decided that for my Christmas present, an early one at that, she would pay for any work that needs to be done to it, and maybe a few mods, within reason. So far I have: 1) Reed Valve (on the way, thanks Alkorahil!!!) 2) New oxygen sensor (on the way, from www.autopartswareouse.com, 3 wire) only $42 3) CV axle boots (both are busted) 4) Alignment 5) Valve cover gaskets 6) Fuel injectors (ecu finally gave me the code) 7) Blacked out rims from America's Tire CO. (with my dad's Longshore discount, save about 50-60%) 8) Steering stabilizer 9) MSD ignition, and all that good stuff 10) Fan shroud So, while I have the go-ahead on most of these parts (the essentials for now), is there anything else anyone would advise looking into and replacing while we're at it?