FullThrottle

Thanks for the advice. My circuit uses 4 of the digital outputs of the arduino to signal a separate 4 channel relay driver. I'm using relays to control the Solenoids (Shift A and B , TC Lockup and the over-run clutch. This gives me enough power to drive the solenoids while the arduino remains at 5volts in/out. Once I finalize the complete circuit setup and run it for a bit, I'll post up the specs.

So my final solution is to use the arduino micro-computer that I've reprogrammed to control the trans in place of the TCU. In addition I'm going with a modified up/down ratchet shifter which will only allow a single gear change per smack of the shifter. Here's how it works. ---In Normal Mode--- The TCU is powered on and the standard auto shifter works as normal. Auto operates as per factory. The arduino and ratchet shifter does nothing. ---In Manual Mode--- Flick the switch which disables power to the factory TCU and powers up the arduino. Now you can move the factory shifter to D and from there use the ratchet shifter.

"The Money Pit"

So been doing a bit of research and this is possible. The RE4R01A and RE4R03A from Safaris operate the same way so will apply to both. Caution though: When locking the torque converter in the lower gears, you will have to be careful the bolts don't shear as there is a heap more torque being transferred in the lighter RE4R01A transmission. The transmission operates which a combination of shift solenoids and line pressure. So we will give this a go and see if we can turn an Auto into a manual :-) (Something to do, I'm bored and it's very cheap)

I assume all fuses are good and the new battery is fully charged? Also check your earthing strap and give the contacts a good clean.

Have you checked all your fuses? You may have blown one when cutting wires or changing the battery. Is the battery fully charged? It might read 12volts, but can't deliver the load the starter requires to turn it over.

Hi All I'm running a RE4R01A transmission connected to the trusty old TD27T and wanted to do a couple of things to it, that I need some advice on: 1) Preventing the torque convertor from going into lockup. As this just adds additional load and skips the 3rd gear ratio quite quickly once the trans has warmed up. 2) Be able to hold the trans in any gear. (Sort of using it like a manual box) 3) Locking the torque converter in any gear to reduce the heat and gain more direct power to the drive-train. I've read through the below post, but the project was never really finished by the member. http://www.offroadexpress.kiwi/Forums/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=34242&hilit=lockup Does anyone have a final solution? I was thinking of tapping into each wire on the trans with a portable osciliscope and seeing what voltages are applied for each gear and lockup. Thanks

Hi All I am embarking on correcting the horrible TD27 turbo exhaust manifold design to one with much better flow. I've been having a good look at the manifolds on the TD27T and the intake doesn't appear to be too bad, but the exhaust is shocking. I've also been looking at the TD42 turbo exhaust manifolds. I like the way the turbo sits up top and the exhaust ports are nicely spaced. Has anyone ever looked at slicing the last two exhaust pipes off a TD42Turbo manifold? They say the TD42 and TD27 are very similar, but seems to be just one of the exhaust port stud patterns is different. Trying to aquire an old TD27 head and TD42T manifold to compare. If it worked, I would grab my mates old TD42 manifold and turbo and adapt it to the TD27. Any other ideas are more than welcome. Cheers

Cheers tmoore, that would be great. Any ideas, just fling them my way.

Hi All, about to get some front and rear bumper/bullbar bar work done on my WD21. Looking for ideas. Anyone got some good pics of what they've done ?? Here's one courtesy of TomsOffroad NZ... http://www.offroadex...27391&start=510 Cheers Ants

Give the entire area around the leak a good clean (water blast, or whatever) then go for a spin and then pin point where the leak is. From your picture it looks like yours has been leaking where mine is. I have an engine manual and was planning to pull it apart.

Hi, I have an original Terrano R3M 2.7 Deisel. When I purchased it, it had just received a brand new turbo as the previous owner cooked it. they are Garrett turbos and I can find the specs once I dig out the receipt. NOTE: Get a turbo timer. these deisels can overheat and in the past it's been the thermostat that causes the issues. There is a new thermostat out now with a thing called a "jiggle valve" seems to do the job in mine. Cheers

You might be able to locate it in the manual. You can download them from.... http://www.phatg20.net/component/option,co...c,select/id,31/ Cheers Ants

Thanks all for the warm welcome

Just thought I would share this.... If you have to replace the Thermostat in the TD27 then make sure you order one with the "jiggle valve" Some places don't know what you are talking about, but as per the attached picture it is important to get one with a jiggle valve. Some places call it a jiggle pin. I'm replacing my thermostat because it is jammed open and the engine runs far to cold all the time. Cheers Ants