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zbeck

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About zbeck

  • Birthday 03/16/1975

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    97 and 98
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Year
    1997

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.doubledogracing.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chesterfiled, SC
  • Interests
    z31 300zxs

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  1. This will save you some trouble if you are curious to see what it is. While I don't recommend it to anyone else, I modified mine on both vehicles. A wife of one of my coworkers had a car that was designed to have the car in park before you could take the keys out. It was new (had like 800 miles on it), and the switch in the shifter malfunctioned. She tried for hours to get help until her cell phone died. She walked back inside her work to call her husband, and someone stole the car. Insurance wouldn't pay because 'she left the keys in the car' and the dealer said 'oh yeah prove it'. I left that job, so I'm not real sure how it turned out. Anyway, I dont like "safety" BS telling me what to do.
  2. There is a lot you can check without going into the transmission. I would say it is more toward the advanced end of the scale if you end up replacing it. If you have opened up anything like an engine and replaced something inside, youll be ok, but if brake pad changes scare you, this should not be the next step in your learning curve. I got curious and the part is expensive - $400ish list price. If you look at AT-132 in the Factory Service Manual, there is a long guide for troubleshooting it. The AT section is huge, but don't let it freak you out. AT-226 shows how to take out what you need (notice it is 'on vehicle service' so dont let the dealer tell you they have to remove the transmission). AT-254 shows the break down of the assembly holding the solenoid. Your potential problem is right no top and comes off first, so don't be scared of all the other parts. It is very complicated inside there, but if you focus on what you need, its not difficult. Even if you take it to the dealer it is worth looking over the book, just to see what they will be discussing with you (or lying about). Other options Pray its the wiring on the outside Try swapping computers with someone to make sure that isn't the problem An entire AT is $100 from the junkyard here... yes its a pain to replace, but gives you time to play with the bad transmission/source a cheaper part Good time for a MT swap Disable the solenoid the next time it is working correctly in the off position and live with MIL light Wash with gas, dry with match (yeah I really don't like going to the dealer) Personally, I would go to the junkyard and find a severely wrecked pathfinder (that way you know it probably isnt in the junkyard for a bad transmission) and take that transmission... last time I got an engine I left the trans on there and they gave it to me for $50; you could go hog wild getting spares and never get close to what you would waste at the stealership.
  3. Sounds like your lock up solenoid is sticking. Nissan now calls it a "Torque converter clutch solenoid valve". When it is working, it allows the torque converter to slip when it is suppose to (coming to a stop, sitting in your driveway,etc) and then lock up the transmission to the engine at speed to improve gas mileage by bypassing the small amount of slip all torque converters have. When it is malfunctioning, it is pretty much like stalling a manual car by not using the clutch.
  4. I finally tracked down a person in St Pete with the lowering tool. He was extremely helpful, and was happy we talked because he had no idea the tools were under the backseats, so win-win. My father-in-law and I searched through 8 crates of tools at a junkyard. The only ones that had a pin arrangement at the end were 12-16" long. Junkyard wanted $30 for a jack. I said screw it, got a $12 harbor freight jack, and hit Home Depot to make the tool. I ended up using a threaded rod which I drilled and drove a pin through. With the new tool, the tire would not come down. Tried the tool on another pathfinder and it worked perfect. Obviously, something is wrong with this pathfinder. I borrowed an angle grinder from their neighbor, and cut the ears off the part the holds the spare. The spare was up so tight it sounded like a shotgun when it let loose. We positioned a bunch of sturdy items under it to prevent it from falling so we were lucky it didn't come flying out. Once the tire was out, further inspection to the mechanism revealed that it is broken. It will only move back and forth a small amount and makes crunchy noises inside. I will just get another one from the junkyard, and open up this one later to find out exactly how it is broken. If anyone in the future needs to make the tool... The rod diameter is right at 7/16". The drive pin across the end is a little less than 1/4" and a little more than 6mm in diameter. It is 1.42" long which is very close to 36mm The overall length of the tool is about 35 1/2". Distance across the flats is .360" and around .600" in length. I said the drawing isn't accurate. It isn't. If you need to look up the word "accurate", please do it before replying. Look inside the circles on this picture... do those look exactly the same to any of you? When you have a cartoon, it is hard to gauge size and scale. As was pointed out already sections and details are missing in the diagram. It isn't meant to be an accurate representation. This is why I specifically asked for a picture. I was going to chock this up to a misunderstanding, but I tend to get testy when people take a dump on my threads. I sent a PM to the author of the original reply before my last post. I've tried to be civil. $600 was for the jack and tools. The person on the phone said he couldn't 'pick and choose' the tools. Since I knew that was a lie, I just said ok, and scratched them off the list. The other 2 dealers I called were a no-go, also.
  5. Thank you for the picture. Now, since you have proven yourself 'right'... want to explain tool 99545? It is exactly like I said... the diagram isn't accurate. I am sorry you took this so personal. When I said "here" in the first post, I meant in St Petersburg, FL, not this messageboard. People that live here don't really know where anything is having to do with cars, part stores, or junkyards, so it is very frustrating.
  6. I have already seen this diagram online. It is not accurate. This is why I asked for pictures. A picture of the end that goes into the lowering mechanism will help greatly. Now before someone argues this diagram is 'right', I have been harassing random pathfinder owners in the St Pete area to look at their tool kits. Everyone so far is missing the rod to lower the spare tire. None of the other tools look exactly like the diagram. I have also used FAST for almost a decade, and I know how much accuracy Nissan lends to the diagrams.
  7. Can someone post a picture of the spare tire tools? I cannot find a picture anywhere, and everyone here likes to play dumb. I bought a 98 pathfinder a few weeks ago, and now that I am on a 1200 mile trip, I have found all the tools are missing. Yeah, yeah, I made a mistake and forgot to bring some from the other pathfinder. It wasn't a big deal since we had new rubber, but now after two flats from debris, AAA saying there is no way to help us, FDOT assistance not helping, I've had enough. Mazda, Toyota, Chevy, Ford, and dodge tools don't work. I've been to all the junkyards in the St Pete area, and the ones with tools, take them out and throw them into one box... so, I have to know EXACTLY what the right thing looks like. They also want to _____ me on the price. Which reminds me is $600 at Nissan with a 3 day wait after I go pay for it. Anyway, tires cost $50 more down here than at home at the same store. So, not only do I get to sit on the side of the rad for 7 hours, it is getting expensive. I am one day away from $10 angle grinder from harbor freight.
  8. Links for pictures are fixed. For future reference, it is ok to help a brother out and send a message when there is a problem.
  9. I did the timing belt recently. I have boat loads of VG parts, so to avoid confusion, I made these guides to help with a belt change. You can print them out and have them right with you outside if you need them. To make the torques less confusing, I narrowed the values to one type of unit. Sorry, to our international friends. Everything here is based off of 1997 FSM information.
  10. Found her as a puppy on the side of the road starving. Vet said her growth would be stunted, and he was right. This is as big as she ever got. I make a killing with my black lab "puppy". She loves going on trips, and is fascinated with 4L. She seems to enjoy trains and jets we see during our travels, but dislikes 18 wheelers.
  11. That is called the Water Outlet and the part code is 11060. It is $45 at an online Nissan parts place or $5 at the junkyard. It unbolts easily. The are some differences on other models with VGs, but it is possible to visually ID what you need. It is easy. There's no bearing, just the seal. It slides into the bore and is held in with friction. It is possible to tap in with a socket an hammer, but I drive them in with a tool I make out of PVC. Any PVC the correct diameter will work. It makes it easier to drive in strait and control how far the seal goes in. It is possible to go in too far, and then you have to destroy the new seal and put in another. Also, there is no economy in doing one; always do both sides. Here are some recent pictures of mine. If you are down for a while, I would try to fix the starter. If you need to get back on the road, I would get one from the junkyard, and fix the old one as a spare to keep on the shelf. You can also track down someone local into VGs and I'm sure they would have one dirt cheap or free. I'm sure I have a half dozen boxed up here and there.
  12. Another place for FSMs is carfiche. It was started by the person in charge of z31.com. I don't recall much pathfinder stuff, but there is a good bit of Nissan stuff. If it says "TnA" beside a download, just wait 30mins and refresh the page. It only makes 1/3 of the links work at any one time to prevent mass downloads. More FSMs I have had WinRAR. I though it [highly unpleasant vulgarity], and think it is a resource hog and time waster. I use a program called 7-Zip. It has been around for a long time, and no one has screwed it up with unnecessary BS improvements. It also can compress things in its own format (7z), and since I have had trouble sending some things in emails and chat, I hide it in a 7z file, and none of the filters pick up on it. Free 7-zip download at cnet Ok... the real nitty gritty. I have hardcopies of the 87 and 90 FSMs. Well, the 87 is two sections now, but you know how that gos. If someone wants a reasonable amount scanned, hit me up. I also have 84, 86, and 89 z31 (300zx) manuals. I have an 80 s130 (280zx) and 81 turbo supplement. I have the F31 (Infiniti M30) mini FSM. While you can find these online now, some have unreadable pages, so I list these, if clarification is needed. I have FAST from every region except Canada. If anyone needs it, message me, and I will give you a link to my site. Just be warned it is huge to get one of these. I don't have them on a public part of the server so I don't get murdered on bandwidth.
  13. Another crack highlighted in yellow Forgot to add, this is off of a 1997 VG33
  14. It started as a soft pffft noise, grew to a put-put and eventually sounded like an old volkswagon sent from hell. Not only did it break completely into two pieces, but there are additional cracks that formed and just didn't complete their journey before I pulled it off. Between the 10mm studs on the heads and the 50-tons of catalytic converter hanging off the end of the manifold, it really never had a chance. I thought I would add this for reference, so people can know what kind of problem they are looking for. These are like 2 years old. Repeat of a previous picture, but with another huge crack highlighted in YELLOW.
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