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Cuong Nguyen

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Everything posted by Cuong Nguyen

  1. Makes total sense! I have never really given much thought as to why other than parts gone cruddy and or worn from use. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
  2. I swapped in the replacement JY fuel rail with injectors over the weekend and got her running again late yesterday night. I have now full power and I can actually redline again!
  3. Apparently I jinxed myself and the starter gave me issues. A few taps and it fired up.
  4. You're best bet is looking at the junk yards as Silverton mentioned. I lucked out and found one with almost zero rust.
  5. I had a similar issue where it could not crank. No clicks. Replaced the ignition switch and the problem has yet to resurface.
  6. Take care of those codes first before you start dumping money into other things. The vg33 models were notorious for the distributor bearings going out causing all sorts of running issues. Open up the dizzy cap and look for red rust dust. That's usually a telltale sign.
  7. Usually due to a shorted illumination wire for the stereo unit. I believe it is the orange wire for the harness adapter.
  8. Clicking normally is due to worn cv joints while turning. I never had ifs 4wds but I'm assuming you're talking about the snap ring that holds the axle spline tight from backing out? When does it click?
  9. Had to get two new tires today. I was torn between keeping the 33x.10.50s vs the 33x12.50s. I currently have 33x10.50s but the new Cooper Evolution MTs 33x12.50s weighed less than my 33x.10.50s!!!!!!!!
  10. I use the Valvoline Maxlife import or something synthetic. I think it was blue bottle.
  11. Take apart the switch and clean up the contacts and relube it.
  12. I hope so too. I have been continuing my unlucky streak of misfortune. Thieves stole the cats off my Tundra while I was at work Monday and there's a rental shortage here due to the pandemic so I'm carless at the moment and other crap went downhill because of this nuisance. Toyota is backlogged on orders and wont expect shipments of converters for another 3-6 months. My new ECU should be here Friday.
  13. I shorted out my ECU because I grounded out the ignition hot to the MAF which is irrelevant to your problem. It took out a fusible link in the process at the battery but did not blow any fuse in the fuse panel. check your wiring diagram and see how the immobilizer codes are triggered. Have you gone over the FSM?
  14. As long as the fusible links are still there to protect your circuit you're ok. I've ran into the same code you had a long time ago when I was stuck in a mud hole. Then not long after that, I had a clogged cat. Irrelevant, though. No harm in disconnecting the TCM and turning on the truck. Power light may flash due to it (it's been a while). See if you still get codes when you start your truck. see what the codes are. then reinstall the TCM and try again.
  15. I hooked the wrong black wires together. Mistook the black with white to be ground on the TPS harness after I had did a clean cut and splice with solder. The black with white was ignition hot....... Crazy thing is, this was how it was hooked up for the past decade or so and ran fine as far as I can tell but had some corrosion/oxidation on the wiring. Just ordered a 93 4wd Auto ECU so well see how it goes. If it starts running again, I'll start diagnosing my @!*%ting running issue (suspecting Chinese eBay injectors at fault, currently) Super lucky and thankful for JWT for creating a chart of ECU IDs based on part numbers. It's only limited but points me in the right direction. Nissan FAST only lists NISSAN part numbers and do not indicate Hitachi's part numbers as that is the only identification on the ECU casing. When searching, you have to rely on the VIN numbers and seller's description of vehicle it came from. http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ecu-id.pdf
  16. Well if I disconnect the the alternator plug the battery and brake light turn off.....lol Fuel pump is not priming either so that lead me to think ecu. Had some time after work to pull the ecu out. Opened the covers and sure enough, I found a burned spot. Anyone with FAST can help me ID which ECU I can use? I need a non California model. I have a 93 2wd. 4wd could work. Anything before 94 with the electric speedo. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
  17. I'd check for codes first too as mentioned previously. If your ECU died, it would have taken out a fuse/fusible link. Mine did that, but I may have shorted it. (I have a '93 though.)
  18. Would the low oil, hand brake, and low battery light staying light mean anything in this case? Usually bad alternator but it's not running for it to stay on. I guess I'll pull it and take it to get tested. No fuses popped under the dash. Guess I'll rip open the maf plug job to verify everything again for peace of mind.
  19. So I've been having some running issues with the truck lately and so figured it was time to do some much needed maintenance. Cleaned the MAF sensor. Soldered in a new MAF sensor plug harness with a separate ground wire attached. Original one broke and had some corrosion. Replaced the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and replaced all fuel injectors. I had one bad so went ahead and replaced all of them. Attempted to start it and heard a pop and smoke near the battery (had hood open). One of the fusible links blew. Took a look at the ecu and did not see any lights and could not pull codes. Also the power light was flashing like 16 times (guessing limp mode) for transmission? What I am trying to figure out is what would cause my fusible link to just pop like that? I traced the wire (White) from the fusible link and it took me to the ECCS relay (via electrical diagram). Is the ECCS relay the Main Relay or the Check relay under the hood on the passenger fender wall? https://imgur.com/tgzbnA3
  20. Sounds like you have a short somewhere.. TPS and speed sensor are the usual culprits but I would think they would throw codes. Don't have any other ideas to help.
  21. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33278-hooked-up-the-jumper-cables-the-wrong-waysparks-and-smoke/?do=findComment&comment=626061
  22. Hoping this is the problem I am having. I'll take a relay over a replacement ecu.
  23. That's code for alternator going out. Probably the voltage regulator or whatever. It's a hit and miss with remanufactured alternators. I cannot offer any tips or advice since I've never worked on an 02 model other than unplugging the battery first lol.
  24. It's held in place by a woodruff key like the crank pulley. I'm figuring you already have the belt off and what not so you can spray it with some penetrating lubricant and some light taps should work it loose....or wedge something behind it and leverage it out a bit. It's been a while since I've done it...
  25. You sure that pump is bad? How do you know your pump is bad? Did you test it to see if the pump is actually getting power ans actually pumping out fuel? Yoi can disconnect the fuel line feeding to the fuel rail to make sure it's pumping.. the pump should prime for a few seconds when you turn your ignition on ans you should hear your pump click on. I'm using a cheap pump off Ebay for 60 dollars. So far so good. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk
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