Cuong Nguyen

Makes total sense! I have never really given much thought as to why other than parts gone cruddy and or worn from use. Sent from my SM-N960U1 using Tapatalk

I swapped in the replacement JY fuel rail with injectors over the weekend and got her running again late yesterday night. I have now full power and I can actually redline again!

Apparently I jinxed myself and the starter gave me issues. A few taps and it fired up.

You're best bet is looking at the junk yards as Silverton mentioned. I lucked out and found one with almost zero rust.

I had a similar issue where it could not crank. No clicks. Replaced the ignition switch and the problem has yet to resurface.

Take care of those codes first before you start dumping money into other things. The vg33 models were notorious for the distributor bearings going out causing all sorts of running issues. Open up the dizzy cap and look for red rust dust. That's usually a telltale sign.

Usually due to a shorted illumination wire for the stereo unit. I believe it is the orange wire for the harness adapter.

Clicking normally is due to worn cv joints while turning. I never had ifs 4wds but I'm assuming you're talking about the snap ring that holds the axle spline tight from backing out? When does it click?

Had to get two new tires today. I was torn between keeping the 33x.10.50s vs the 33x12.50s. I currently have 33x10.50s but the new Cooper Evolution MTs 33x12.50s weighed less than my 33x.10.50s!!!!!!!!

I use the Valvoline Maxlife import or something synthetic. I think it was blue bottle.

Take apart the switch and clean up the contacts and relube it.

I hope so too. I have been continuing my unlucky streak of misfortune. Thieves stole the cats off my Tundra while I was at work Monday and there's a rental shortage here due to the pandemic so I'm carless at the moment and other crap went downhill because of this nuisance. Toyota is backlogged on orders and wont expect shipments of converters for another 3-6 months. My new ECU should be here Friday.

I shorted out my ECU because I grounded out the ignition hot to the MAF which is irrelevant to your problem. It took out a fusible link in the process at the battery but did not blow any fuse in the fuse panel. check your wiring diagram and see how the immobilizer codes are triggered. Have you gone over the FSM?

As long as the fusible links are still there to protect your circuit you're ok. I've ran into the same code you had a long time ago when I was stuck in a mud hole. Then not long after that, I had a clogged cat. Irrelevant, though. No harm in disconnecting the TCM and turning on the truck. Power light may flash due to it (it's been a while). See if you still get codes when you start your truck. see what the codes are. then reinstall the TCM and try again.

I hooked the wrong black wires together. Mistook the black with white to be ground on the TPS harness after I had did a clean cut and splice with solder. The black with white was ignition hot....... Crazy thing is, this was how it was hooked up for the past decade or so and ran fine as far as I can tell but had some corrosion/oxidation on the wiring. Just ordered a 93 4wd Auto ECU so well see how it goes. If it starts running again, I'll start diagnosing my @!*%ting running issue (suspecting Chinese eBay injectors at fault, currently) Super lucky and thankful for JWT for creating a chart of ECU IDs based on part numbers. It's only limited but points me in the right direction. Nissan FAST only lists NISSAN part numbers and do not indicate Hitachi's part numbers as that is the only identification on the ECU casing. When searching, you have to rely on the VIN numbers and seller's description of vehicle it came from. http://jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/ecu-id.pdf