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jason

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Everything posted by jason

  1. It idles a little rough, but decent on the high end. It's noticeably quicker, I just have to tune it a little I think.
  2. So after a lot of headache we finally figured it out. I had several mechanic friends come over to listen, each one offering a different opinion. In the end, someone recommended letting it run for a few minutes. This thought never occurred to me because I was too scared that more damaged might be caused. I guess it just wasn't getting oil yet. All of the noises and problems vanished...
  3. Yeah it was the pilot bearing. We overlooked it the first time, then took everything back apart and removed it, and replaced it with the MT pilot bearing. That quieted the noise from within the bell housing. Put the new clutch kit in while we were at it.
  4. No, all we had to swap were the fan, alternator, engine to transmission brackets, throttle cable housing, and remove some extra stuff. There was a spacer pressed into the back where the transmission shaft goes in that gave us some trouble, too. Nothing internal, though.
  5. No, I didn't even know that was necessary. I will consult the manual. Thank you.
  6. Took me about six days (lots of BIG mistakes and trips to the parts store), but the new motor is in. There is a strange intermittent chatter coming from what sounds like the front of the oil pan. It's definitely internal, and way to loud to be an exhaust leak. Sounds like metal on metal. After about six or seven seconds of running properly (aside from the noise), the engine idle drops down to about 200 RPM's, barely able to keep itself going. Also, it smells similar to what we experienced when we ruined the clutch when we forgot to tighten down the pressure plate. Ouch. Any ideas?
  7. The guy at the local JDM warehouse said that they don't stock engines for the '95 because the crankshaft is longer in the engines from Japan. If so, will that be a problem (might get a '95 from eBay or something) or should I just try stickin' a '93 or '94 engine in there? I have everything lined up to do this project and was about to buy the engine until I heard this.
  8. Take out the two screws above the the heater controls, pull off the four knobs on the heater controls, pull out the ashtray and remove the two screws that are inside/on top of where the ashtray was, disconnect electrical connectors for heater controls, and from then it's just a matter of pulling it straight out without breaking any of the plastic snaps. If anything looks like it's holding it on, remove it. Pretty simple, you shouldn't have much trouble with it.
  9. There's one screw in the corner of the cover that is impossible to reach w/out removing the dist. I think I've done everything exactly as the Chilton and you and Slick have described: 14 mm bolt is removed. Everything's marked. It should just slide right up, right? It rotates back and forth a little, should I just try and pry it up?
  10. I'm half way done with replacing my valve cover gaskets, but I can't get the DS valve cover off due to the distributor being in the way. I removed the 14 mm bolt, the small screw behind the rotor, and 3 small screws that that screw in vertically and are pretty much even spaced around the rotor. The distributor twists a little, but there is NO upward movement. I have to have it done by noon tomorrow, so any input anyone has tonight would be awesome.
  11. When I did mine the bolts were extremely hard to come by. I bought 2 feet of 12 x 1.25 threaded rod, tightened 2 nuts together on the rod, screwed it in to the body and trimmed the excess rod.
  12. jason

    funny

    Dude that was funny in the first grade.
  13. It does sound similar, but yours sounds more like an exhaust manifold leak. I've dealt with those before, and the difference now is that the ticking does not get quieter when the engine warms up. I haven't tried the stethoscope method, but MY tick sounds like it is coming from cylinder # 1.
  14. That's what I'd like to know. It didn't really seem logical to me, I just assumed it might be possible because of the way Vidro described it in the quote in my last post.
  15. I assumed my ticking noise was a lifter issue, but after reading this thread, I pose the question: Does it seem more likely that it would be the timing belt tensioner, considering it started immediately after I changed the timing belt and water pump, but not the tensioner? Before reading this thread I had no idea that the tensioner could cause a ticking noise similar to that of a defective lifter.
  16. SuperSon, I would just like to say thank you for a few things. First, for directing me to a commercial website that is happy to sell me their product but even happier to charge me $3.50 to read an article on how to do anything, and every link leads to the same "solid state switches" persuasive essay. Second, thank you for the random photograph of all of those neat looking dremels. You have proven yourself to everyone that you are a master craftsman. Excuse my ignorance, but what is an invalid? You talk about Crutchfield so much it makes me think that you're in love with it. When I was in the third grade my teacher taught me an effective technique called "proofreading". Ever heard of it? I can't speak for anyone else on this forum, but I appreciate it when people with whom I engage in conversation with read at least each and every post within the respective thread, but obviously you have not. Go back to page 1, post 13, and you will see that I said 6x9's DO need air space, yet on page 5, post 5, you told MWS "I hope you're not going to tell me 6x9's don't need air space". I could go on all day with your inconsistencies, but people will get bored, so I request that you post a reply so that I can deal with them one at a time. Thank you.
  17. jason

    Tire swap

    If you are planning on doing it yourself, it is do-able, but you will need some guidance. First, remove the valve stem core. For this you will need a core tool. Second, break the bead on the tire. You have to lubricate it, use a soapy water solution on the sidewall. Then, using a sledge hammer, smack one side of the tire while standing on the other side. Then, take a...on second thought...go to a tire shop. It will save you tons of time. If you still want to do it on your own, pm me.
  18. Right...but you get to park in her garage, so it seems like a fair trade
  19. Started up the old '95 after a huge (huge to us) snow storm, got a loud squealing noise, broke the alternator belt 2 blocks later, replaced belt, ran fine. Next day (still freezing outside), started her up, squealing again, burning rubber smell (belt), shut her off and took the old lady's rig to work. Later that day, went to start her and she gave me the typical "click-click-click" of a dead battery. The thing is, the headlights and stereo work at the same time with the key in the accesory position, so I know the battery still has juice. I've determined that the belt broke because the alternator pulley was not spinning, thus causing friction and heat on the belt. Is the alternator frozen because of the cold weather, or did it just happen to fail on me after the snow storm?
  20. First of all, mid range speakers do need air space, but the proper spec's for air space for a mid-range speaker can only be obtained by building a box to the spec's of said mid-range speaker. There IS air space in doors and in the ceiling that is NOT isolated and NOT designed to a certain specification (i.e. stock speaker air space spec's). Do your READING before getting defensive. Secondly, if you would have actually read my previous post, I specifically stated that if you can mount the speakers EFFICIENTLY, go for it. EVERY car audio shop uses dremels to do modifications, if you are retarded and can't operate a dremel than you don't need to be messing with your speakers anyway, or in your words "Mickey Mousing" your installation.
  21. The fact is you already have the 5 x 7's in your possesion. I made the same mistake when I replaced my fronts, and I really did not want to take them back. I ended up carving out the stock plastic speaker mount bracket using a dremel. It was very simple and the whole project turned out very nicely. The air space theory does not apply to mid-range speakers mounted in a door or ceiling, and by the way, it seems obvious that 6x9's are better than 5x7's (of the same brand/model,etc.) no matter which direction they are facing. If you can mount them efficiently, go for it.
  22. When I worked at Les Schwab all of the new tires with white wall lettering came with a protective blue coating. We used "White Wall Cleaner" to remove it, something that should have been done at the place where you bought your tires. Unless you had them shipped directly to you, I'd go back to where you got them and have them remove it for you. It should be considered part of the purchase.
  23. 2 Observations: 1. I think it's hilarious that you jumped out and started snapping pictures before offering to help the girl out of the car 2. Rich men=hot wives=hot daughters who drive nice cars that their rich dads buy for them. :cool2:
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