Hawzzy

Good stuff...ill give it all the old college try on Saturday. Tyler

I tried three others....all are used...all are charged and showing 12.5 (ish) volts. One is a marine battery...right off our work boat...it works great for us daily. In fact...the only way ive been able to get to work this week...is by carrying around, and using that very marine battery, to boost my truck twice a day!!!! This is why i havent shelled out the $$$$ for a NEW battery yet...havent been convinced yet that this is where the problem lies...BUT maybe its time. Like i said before...i switched out my battery for the good one mentioned above...it boosts the truck just fine...BUT when i put it in the truck...figuring it would fire right up...NOPE....dash lights dim and just click..click...dead!!! Take it off...test it...shows 12.5 (ish) volts. I'm screwed.....(pardon the french) Tye

Crap...good question...i'll check it!!!

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions everyone....heres the thing...ive cleaned and tightened the terms...i cant see how i can get the clamps any tighter, there isnt any slop in them and they dont wiggle at all...but as soon as the booster cables touch this battery/posts from another vehicle or battery...its all good! Still confused and getting frustrated.............Tyler

O.K....so i just went out with the meter.....the battery reads 12.5 at the terminals, the same at the engine (positive post/neg on engine) The dash lights are dim/barely visible...and the battery says 12.5 v...as soon as i hook up a second battery (or boost it)the dash lights are fine and it starts....you would say then...its the battery...so i rotated that batery out and tried another....it reads 12.8 v at the terminals and on engine ground and it still wont even try to turn over and the dash lights are barely lit!!! i wanna pull my hair out...... So i put the voltmeter on the terminals once it fired up and it was everchanging from 13 v AND HIGHER...IN FACT the meter wouldnt read it a couple times. Oh ya...i took the terminals off just last week when the problem started and i cleaned them with my dremel tool and a wire brush...in fact the positive is showing signs of green corrosion already. Tye

Ive assumed the battery was dead...when i crank it and there is nothing...then i boosted it. I then changed batteries to one i new was good..and nothing. BUT with a good battery in and a boost it starts everytime..and runs just fine!!! When we boosted it, we hooked the cables to the battery terminals...not the engine/metal. Maybe its in the cable somewhere..i dunno...i DO have a voltmeter, so ill check all the points listed above..thanks...im really not that electrical savvy...so this is a crap-shoot for me!!! Tye

I need some major help...here the issue I undid the neg. on the battery (to clear codes) when i went to put the neg. cable back on, it was leaning against the battery holder and once reconnected...the battery was COMPLETELY drained...i mean COMPLETELY!!!!!! So, i boosted it, drove home no prob!!!!!!!! Once home i turned truck off and NOTHING...NO BATTERY POWER!!!!!! Ive tried FOUR batteries, and the truck WILL NOT START WITHOUT A BOOST from another vehicle or a good battery. I use a good batttery to boost it with NO PROB...then i put that good battery in, thinking it should start..and NOTHING..then i boost it with the battery i just took out of another vehicle, and OILA!!!!! IT STARTS!!!!! Cant figure it out, and I NEED MY TRUCK RUNNING!!!! tye

I cant remember if you have a stock radio or an aftermarket...but when you install an aftermarket radio, there is ALWAYS a BLUE lead called "power antenna"..traditionally used as a +12 volt when unit is powered up to give +12 signal to an amplifier to turn on...I havent looked at mine, but if you did an install properly, you wouldve bought a wiring harness to attach to your new head-unit, and interupting the feed from the power antennae might do the trick....It wont be the 12 volt power source...but the +12 volt "switch" so to speak. Its TOO cold for me to rip my dash open right now...or id go do it right now too! Tye

I cant beleive you posted that....when they were first designed...MY WIFE LOVED THEM...then they came out and everyone hated them enought that she changed her tune out of SHEAR EMBARASSMENT.... I did like the practicality and the rear hatch tent...but ewe...nothing could fix that things case of the UGLIES!!!! Tye

I cant answer that one...my clock hasnt worked long enough for me to tell...one or two days in a row at the most...and it hasnt worked at all for a couple months. Tye

Would she have yelled at you if you DID kick his ass???? LOL

Are those Old Man Emu struts???? How long have you had them??? When i searched for my stuff in the summer...there wasnt a pair to be found in North America...I made dozens of phone calls...finally got a call back from an ARB rep who said they were removed from the shelves for a "redesign" I later found out that they were catastrophically failing within the first year of service on a regular basis. (Arb birdie told me) I Really wanted to go with all OME...at first i "settled" for KYB struts...but now realize they are the @!*%!!!!! Tye

I dont know Y...it kinda baffled me, but that is the way it is!!!!! Ill take a pic today...not much to see tho...my 15" steel rims have the same or more BS than the stock ones..with the spacers on now, they just barely stick out past the flares. Tye They are rubbing on the fender now, not the struts or anything likt that

I think they only offer the MD coil for the back...about wheel spacers...look at my sig see my list of mods...i didnt rub on my fenders UNTIL i put on my 1.5" spacers on the front. Its just a little, and only when in reverse! Tye

I know that when i was searching for my stuff, you could get KYB GR2 struts and shocks for under $200.00 on EBAY (brand new) Now i dont know much about their shocks but the struts are OEM replacements. You just need to get your coils then. And if you arent going to disconnect your rear antisway bar or get a SFD to lift your rig 6" then you dont need longer shocks or brakelines. And there is only ONE size of strut you can get for the Pathy. To put that price in perspective...The Gr2 struts here in Canada range from 140-200$ EACH....thats a BIG difference in price...maybe a good solution for a college budget!!! Tye P.S. The prob with replacing just the coils and not the struts is...you have to remove them and take them apart ( a risky job) just to replace the coils...sooooooo its worth it to just do it all at once. The rear is simple...its the struts that are the PITA! Besides...new stronger coils and 10 yr old shocks not a great idea imho....if they arent already shot they will be soon after!!!!

Not good...just to make you feel better here: I was giveing my girlfriend at the time (now my wife) about 18 yrs ago, a lesson on changing the battery, carefully explaining the difference between pos/neg. You know the colour diff, and the +/- symbols......well i had just bought a Crappy Tire battery, not an exact replacement...well it would only fit in the battery holder one way ( the opposite to the orig.)...so i put it in and continued explaining the dangers of getting the cables wrong to my wife when i hooked up the second cable, amid a small shower of sparks too, yet i continued to tighten the cable down. Needless to say smoke and such insued.....ALL fus. links fried, fuses fried, and worst of all the ECM!!! A big mess indeed. I FEEL your pain...i was only 17 yrs old sooooo i blame it on my pretty wife distracting me...LOL Tye I know that doesnt help your situation...but dont feel too bad..youre not the only one!!!

Yepr...i have OME MD in rear and HD in front of my 01...ill be honest...when i get a couple people in the back and some gear...it sags. These springs were made for load carrying properties more than "show" lift properties. know what i mean??? I searched ARB home site for distributors...i even called them, they directed me to all the ARB, and OME dealers within a couple hundred km radius!! Matt at National 4wd centres in Burlington...you need to casll these people, 95% of websited dont have all their items...esp. something as obscure as a "lift" for a pathy. Tye

heres my 2 cents worth...I would go with the OME MD springs in the rear...they have a stiffer spring rate than the stock 115 #inch. They give 0.5" of lift over stock height with 100-150 lbs over stock weight. I think that you would be at or just below stock height with that much weight and M.D. OME coils. National 4wd in Burlington got my OME coils for me...they are very close to the same price as the states. TYE

didnt the guys at Krypton Fab. show some of those not too long before Christmas...or just discussing it??? TYE

I think thats too broad a question with no real single definable answer...whats your goals...uses for truck...etc???? Tye