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morpheus last won the day on February 15 2011

morpheus had the most liked content!

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About morpheus

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    NPORA Old-Timer
  • Birthday 02/01/1975

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    2003 xterra se
  • Place of Residence
    Home (where else)
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    I Own A Shop Or Work As A Professional Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Serious Off Road Enthusiast
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  1. Not using 1.5m nuts on 1.25m studs by chance are you?
  2. This is the best I've ever seen a cube described!
  3. Maxima has cooled seats, you could use those and at least keep it all Nissan!
  4. Are you manual or auto trans? Did I miss that somewhere? Iirc manual trans only has 3500lbs towing capacity. Auto has 5000lb I tow a 4200lb rv with my 3.3l xterra on 33's and it struggles of the hills, but is fine other than that.
  5. Most seat heaters are just a basic heating pad hooked up to a switch and 12v. You can pull the pad out of just about any make/model at a wrecker, doesn't have to be a Nissan, just has to have the right amount of surface area.
  6. Maybe this explains why the picture I sent them once upon a time disappeared too, but I didn't worry about it that much, I just figured they didn't like my truck that had a bunch of their parts on it, and I've been buying from other companies since.
  7. By far, the best choice now for lighting is an led light bar. I have 4 HID KC day lighters on my roof, and they work very well, but I added a light bar underneath them this summer, and now I don't even use the HID's anymore, and am actually considering removing them completely. The light bars come in different lengths from 12" to 40". I put a 20" on the front and want to get a couple 12" ones for the sides and back to simply use as "work" lights angled downwards. The led bars don't throw the light quite as far as the KC's do, but it completely fills all the area that you need to watch for animals running out on the hiway etc...
  8. Could it be as simple as the plug on the harness isn't locking onto the injector properly?
  9. Pics you posted look very minor. Should get a reinforcement plate installed (insist this level is done, they have an option to not install if they feel its not required) and a simple repair. People have a lot worse than you.
  10. If you want to test your abs, just find a loose gravel parking lot and do some hard stops. Should kick in. Make sure your rear drums are adjusted properly too.
  11. Is that the ONLY abs code? That code usually indicates a abs pump failure, but they rarely fail on their own. What usually happens is something else goes wrong, and the owner ignores it and doesn't fix it, which causes the abs pump to run way beyond what it was designed to do. I would reset the system, look for the first failure to come up and address that first and maybe you'll be lucky and the pump/actuator will be ok. Alternatively it is possible the previous owner ended up fixing the minor problem already to find that the abs pump is bad and decided to sell rather than fix. You're best bet is to try to find a used wrecker one, as new I believe they are probably in the $2000 range.
  12. No, the factory manuals are just as vague. Unless its something you specifically need to know ie: remove engine, then remove oil pan, they pretty much assume you know what you're doing. The only place the FSM gets specific is when you're diagnosing a component, then they tell you step by step right down to what wire to probe.
  13. Not a factory button. Probably installed by a previous owner. My guess is fog lights, or passenger ejection seat.
  14. There isn't the specific vin number on the Nissan engine, there is an engine code at the top of the bell housing. There is a data base of what engine code went in what vin # at the factory, but that will obviously change if an engine gets swapped. Other than that code, the only place iirc that an a actual vin shows up on the block might be a simple peel and stick sticker that won't be there after a couple years.
  15. Never never never never. I can't stress this enough. Assume a picture in the FSM is correct. They are always basic representations of a part, sometimes not even close to what the actual part looks like. They seem to do their best to get it close, but don't go replacing something because the line drawing in the FSM looks different. Always compare it to a new part if available, or another truck or two. That's my PSA for the day.

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