amo1dun

Hey fam. It's been a while since last post hope all are well. 2011 Pathfinder SV 4x4 158k Tachometer isn't working properly anymore...needle flutters and mostly sits below zero on acceleration, sometimes works as it should but it's not right. CEL is on but it's an evap small leak code pretty sure it's not related. Question is if I replace the cluster with a junkyard cluster will I have to get it programmed with a dealer scan tool to reflect the correct mileage or is it plug and play? I would think the ecm would store the odometer reading but just want to make sure before I buy a used cluster. Any insight is much appreciated Thanks, Drew

Hey all long time no see...going to check out an 11 pathfinder today. Can anyone help out and provide some insight on this model year? Any common problems or things to look for? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks guys and gals

the pump is likely fine. the sender is shorted out. not recommended but u can put a 15a fuse in and i bet it runs for a mile before it pops again haha. get a new or junk sender will work just fine, pump is not needed just swap. it to the new assembly cheers

its the sending unit bud. i created that thread a while back. its not the pump...go grab a junkyard sender ifound mine on craigslist...guy was parting out a 91...although part numbers for 87-89 and 90-95 senders are different i can confirm thay a 91 sender will work in the 89 cheers!

I just snatched a chts connector from advance $7. Exact fit. Had to splice the other ends but it fits the temp sensor. It was part #28423 at advance...cant seem to paste the link

Ok, checked everything again. Seemed ok. Pulled the chts connector while it was surging and it evened out but still high idle. Buttspliced a new chts connector on and its back to normal...wtf?

I pulled the air assembly off but doublechecked everything seems good...bout had it with this rig

so I got everything bac together and now i have a surging idle....idles at 2300 rps and then starts surging to 1800 back to 2300...Also put a new coolant temp sensor in but still surges like crazy...does this sound like a timing issue?

I have the cam and crank marks aligned...i will post some pics when i get home 9pm et... i just want to be 100% sure im doing this @!*% right

I have the cam and crank marks aligned...i will post some pics when i get home 9pm et... i just want to be 100% sure im doing this @!*% right

I just read that whole thread....thought I had everything all set....double checked by pullin dizzy cap and saw that Im not at #1 so im at a stand still ....its more pointing to 6 oclock....where as the #1 is at 7 oclock...

Excuse my ignorance fellas, Doing Tbelt and water pump.... Trying to set what I think is TDC...I have the cam marks aligned and the indicator on the cover is pointing at the 0 mark on the damper. But the rotor isn't pointing at the 1 spark plug...its off a little pointing more to where the coil wire would go on the cap. First time doing this so I want to make sure its right before i go any further...I searched around and looked in my haynes but its kinda vague. what am I missing here? Can anyone shed some light? I have 1 day to do this..

Thx for the insight fellas... Will check and report back what i find

89 Pathfinder 130k auto Power light is flashing again on my rig everytime ....Shifts real hard! and seems late between 1st and 2nd on light to medium throttle, will slam into 2nd around 2700rpm ...If Im wot it doesnt slam into 2nd but still jerks noticeably. . Ran A/T diagnostics and get the "Throttle position sensor shorted or disconnected" code.... Checked the ecu and get 55....no codes found...Idk why it would throw a tps code on the ATU and not the ECU.? Followed fsm procedure and checked tps at the connector on the throttle body and at the AT unit in the rear speaker panel with meter and it's within range with no fluctuation or softspots I can see on the meter....In the last couple months, only once the power light didnt flash a code on startup and the truck shifted like a top...anyone have any insight where I should go from here? I would hate to piss away the $ on a new tps before I check everything I can..

to check the booster is airtight just give the pedal a pump or two with the key off.... your pedal should be stiff if the booster is airtight