shift220

First off I want to thank everyone on this forum for the support over the years. We became less and less active on this forum as we sold the original pathfinder and became generally busy with life. As a result we have stopped producing all the products we sell online. This was a part time job for two of us working out of a 800 sq-ft shop. We were glad to produce many kits that were sold around the world including Russia and Australia. We have 12 kits left to send out. They are fabricated & packaged ready-to-ship. Included in the kit is the following: Base Lift Kit (all 4" spacers required for the front + hardware) Extended Brake lines front and back WJ rear spring adapters Panhard Drop bracket The steering linkage is not included as it is cheaper for the end user to purchase it themselves (since we aren't putting in a large order for these last kits). Pricing is as follows: $650 CAD (Approx $500 USD) $90 CAD Shipping to US $50 CAD Shipping in Canada If you are interested in picking up one of these kits, please email us at info @ krfabs.com We also have 2 "missing links" in stock. These are $65 CAD + $20 to ship to US ($15 in Canada) Any questions might be answered by our FAQ section found here: Link

Rick, I'm not even sure on a count of kits so far. Lots were sold before KrFabs was even started! It's well over 30 though. Everything we ship goes Canada Post -> USPS since it is the cheapest option by far. These kits weight up to 44 lbs. I'm on vacation right now... but I'll try my best to keep up on emails

Kit should be going out Monday. Thanks for the order! We have three kits going out that were ordered last week. One going to Russia and another one that will ultimately end up in Panama! I think that puts us at about 6 different countries that we've sent kits to.

Timmons, I made the brackets and mounted the stabilizer. I would have to dig up what the stabilizer came off of. The brackets were a one-off and they would need some R&D so I could produce them for the public. Same goes for the clamp on the tie-rod. The biggest problem is that the install doesn't allow you to put the "rear" bolt into the subframe because the shock is in the way. This will probably have to wait until spring, since my friend is using the Pathfinder as his winter beater.

I put this on the backburner for a while and the pathfinder is now daily driven by a close friend (I have a DD frontier for work). I'm glad this came up though because we are now setup with our cnc plasma table so these brackets I can rapid prototype and the rest is relatively easy.. I will get this going again!

Looks like some really beefy links! You'll never bend a set of those with the size of solid aluminum you are using. I would expect to "feel" more of the road since you have eliminated the rubber cushions, but for most offroaders this probably wouldn't be a huge deal. A good option would be to swap out the body side heim for a poly bushing. Nice work

A cheap and easy solution would be to sleeve the rods. I would slip a 4-5" section of 0.120-0.188 wall tube right in the middle and weld the ends. If you can't find something that is a friction fit, I'd plug weld it every 0.75"-1" along the length. I'll see what sort of price I can get on MOOG inner's and the cost to sleeve.

Just run a relay off the wires coming out of the converter. Take the load off the converter entirely. Also check your trailers for shorts (and put a fuse between the converter and the trailer).

What sort of trailer is this? Generally trailers that have brakes / batteries need a 6 or 7 pole plug. I wouldn't say that the signal lights run off the aux power though. They may still use power from the signal wires. The difference is that a 7 pole includes a brake wire (from the brake controller), back-up lights and a 12v constant. When I wired up my 4-pole on my R50, I used relays on all the circuits. I also had to buy the converter to get the brake lights together. Anyway, if you think you'll ever need to pull a trailer with brakes, I would go for the 7 pole and just run adapters off that. I like the round plugs because the terminals are protected (unlike having a flat-4 hanging in the air).

Yup, the center bore is to small. You'll need to get it bored out to the Pathfinder size.

Nice If I ever have a customer with doubts about the strength of the SFD kit, I simply show them some pics of your wheeling and the concerns seem to disappear.

Those "adapters" I made the first time worked well but aren't easy to make. The KrFabs adapters are much simpler in design and that's why they are cheap. We could probably make a adapter/lift combo, but the WJ springs are readily available in different lifts.

Looks good! The bolts for those adapters are 1/2" How do you like the ride with the springs? Those pics are good for what I'd like to do with them. Thanks!

It's pretty simple really.. they want to take the risk of the initial investment out of the equation. It also means they don't have any interest in making a kit for the R50. It's to bad since they would be the only company with a system available and they have a huge distribution network that would reach 1000x the people on this forum. While 15k does seem high, its not unreasonable. That's an extra $15 per kit if they sold 1000, $30 if they sold 500, $60 if they sold 250, $100 if they only sold 150. Really not much if the kit is $600+ to begin with. Oh well!

Are the rear shocks on the 01+ 14mm on the axle side and 12mm on the body side (opposite of the 96-00?)

The spacers that come with the SFD kit are 4" tall. I recommended to PaMountianbiker that he doesn't stack the spacers. I had a couple reasons: the fact that his use 1/2" hardware and the KrFabs strut spacers use 3/8". Second (and I didn't mention this), but you may not be able to align the truck stacking the spacers and using 2" lift springs. Third I just thought of, you'll probably have a heck of a time trying to reinstall the strut as its hard enough with just the 4" spacers. But hey, if someone does do it, be sure to post up results!

I'm thinking a small bracket that would bolt underneath the tierod (using the tierod nut). I would just have to see where the shock ends up mounting to the subframe. Bringing it out and infront of that swaybar bracket would make things much easier for the install (notice how I don't have the boot on the shock ). I also couldn't get one bolt in (backside of the swaybar bushing). Just little problems that can't be overlooked.

The clamp I am currently using uses 2 3/8" U-bolts to attach it to the tie rod. The unintentional effect of using a large, wide clamp like this is bracing the tie-rod and would make it much more resistant to bending. I don't mind the way I mounted it, it's just the fact that it twists the tierod everytime the shock cycles. I want to get it off the tierod all together. Nope! Take a look at the stock bracket, it's made out of material less then 1/8" thick. I cut this out of 1/4" thick material. All the bracket really does is hold the sway bar in place.

Here are some better pictures of the setup. Not much to report, it's been on the backburner for the most part. Prototyping isn't pretty by the way... It did get me started though. I know for sure that a bracket similar to the one I plasma cut out will be needed. Like I mentioned before, I may attempt to mount the shock on the bracket and somewhere on the knuckle.

I don't think the unibody relies on the doors at all for rigidity. If this was the case, nobody could open their doors when flexed out (try that with the tailgate).

Which bolts are coming loose on the brackets? With blue loctite and no lock washers, mine have stayed tight. The grade 8 9/16" FT bolts I supplied should be torqued to 150-160 ft-lbs. The 7/16" around 60-70 ft-lbs. Most torque wrenches won't even show 160 ft-lbs! Make sure to take some pics of the fix.

The bolt holes are either M8 or M10, FYI. Just get the highest grade bolt you can, it will have the most corrosion resistant coating on it.

The turbo drain doesn't have any pressure behind it. It needs to flow out of the turbo by gravity with the least amount of restriction. I'm guessing the oil pan is steel, in which case you don't be able to drill/tap a hole in it. You'll have to remove it and get a fitting welded to it. Since the turbo is so low, this is probably your only option. If it's aluminum, I can give you some direction on that. Looks like a cool project

As for the tie-rods themselves, the rack would probably be pretty tough to damage. But you do bring up a good point as tie-rods being the weakest link on purpose. I wouldn't hesitate to sleeve a set of tie-rods if mine ever go.

The stabilizer is still going strong as far as I can tell. Still haven't been able to play with it offroad between life and the cold weather. I would be more keen on making this a kit if it didn't move the tie-rod around like it does. Ideally it would mount to the rack where the inner tie-rod screws in but then it's in the way of the boot and you lose some threads in the rack. Maybe I'll try mounting the one end directly on the knuckle and the other on my "custom" bracket. Keep in mind, I would like this to be an easy install to sell as a kit.