Jump to content

fleurys

Vendors
  • Posts

    2,169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    48

Everything posted by fleurys

  1. Thanks for taking the time to help guys... really appreciated.... Before I continue, this is a 2003 LE with vdc and navi... I have a couple of hours in on this and you can tell me if I'm doing it wrong... Here's the summary of the power distribution diagram : so it seems it is only doing 2 circuits... LOAD and DEF. Here's the details of the power diag : so again, in details , it is EC-LOAD and EL-DEF circuits. Here's EC-LOAD diagram... This shows me, regarding fuse 56, that in conjunction with the EL-DEF diagram, the power is really not being consumed by any other device then the rear defogger circuitry.. My theory about a mistery ground between the fuse and the relay (not the battery and the fuse like previously stated) is based on the fact that when disconnecting the D305 Ground (the ground for the defogger), nothing changes in the current draw. So my nect step this morning is to trace the wire from the fuse box to the relay box.. I'm thinking it's picking up a ground along the way... I will also confirm that the pin 5 (wire B/Y) on the other side of the relay has no power when the relay is removed... This will confirm me that the issue is not within the relay box itself...
  2. Hi everyone... I am presently troubleshooting a parasitic draw issue that manifested itself this morning because outside temp went to -21c... I am searching for 0.3A draw and I have found it coming from fuse 56. This is one of the 3 fuses responsible for the rear defogger.... The problem I have is with the logic of what I am finding while troubleshoothing this... Here's what I am doing and what the results are. 1) Remove the fuse = the draw goes away 2) with the fuse back, if I remove the Rear window defogger relay #E117 = The draw is STILL there ! Is it safe to think that somehow between the battery and the fuse, this R/W wire is finding a ground ? Am i wrong to think this ? How would you go about this ? I'm looking for any advice from anyone who has troubleshoot an electrical issue. Thanks again. Steve.
  3. Having recessed bolts and extra bends is all extras that add to the cost and at first I was selling my skids with oil filter and oil pan drain plug access and I had countersunk Stainless steel bolts... Sadly at the end, I was not selling alot of them because most people did not want to pay extra for these... So I am selling the most basic set at the best cost I can while making some $$... The shipping has to be compared properly... When you cross countries, it's a totally different ballgame... Also I ship my stuff with tracking and insurance. It barely takes 4-8 business days anywhere to usa... I could ship it with no tracking, but time has showed me that everybody loses at the end when the item does not get to the buyer or it does get there but with damages that I have to absorb.... move to canada...shipping is cheaper lol !
  4. time for these maybe ? ? https://sfcreation.com/products/front-skidplate-14-aluminium
  5. @mandersen8any chance you can link the video cause somehow I can't find the post on FB....
  6. New stars of our web site for the next few months .... More and more R51 are coming through !! Don't hesitate if you have questions. (info @ sfcreation . com)
  7. Excellent. Thank you for the precision... just to be sure I undertsand.. You mean any R51 manufactured from april 2007 to july 2008 don't have them ?? is that right or am i not understanding what you meant ? Tks.
  8. no it was not... For the other surface mount, I was not able to purchase them at the electronic store... I guess it could also be a possibility...
  9. ok... After talking with a retired electronics teacher, he basically told me to forget about this...He told me that not only we do not have the circuit map for it but it would require long time and money just to troubleshoot... So this (what I thought would be) easy fix project is transforming into a monster electronic project. Frankly I have too much on my plate and do not have the time right now to start this adventure, but I figured that this would be the perfect excuse to start learning electronics. Reading a little more about these VFD's, I learned that ghosting in a multiplexed vfd (like this one) is more likely caused by issues with the grid signal pulses. here's the official explanation here: " Another potential hazard in multiplexing is ghosting. This phenomena is caused by decaying grid signal pulses which are caused by stray capacitance between VFD electrodes and display drivers. If the grid timing overlaps the following grid and anode signal pulses, as shown in Fig.9(a), ghost illumination appears at un-addressed anode segments. To overcome this problem, an inter-digit blanking time should be added between grid pulse timings as shown in Fig.9(b). Generally the inter-digit blanking time should be approximately 10 to 50usec, but this can vary depending on the delay time. Delay time occurs when high value pull down resistor type drivers are used or when the drive circuit is situated away from the VFD. We recommend that an appropriate inter-digit blanking time is utilized on the grid signal only, rather than on both grid and anode signals." For those interested, this was taken from this document : https://www.noritake-elec.com/technology/general-technical-information/vfd-operation So for now, I am stopping this but in the near future , here's what I think will need to be done : 1) make a map of the board connections with all components 2) understand how it works in plain french (english) 3) somehow confirm the ghosting with some tool (possibly an oscilloscope of some sort) 4) insert an inter-blanking solution For now I will endure the display like it is, but I am excited at the idea of starting this project eventually when time is available. Over and out ! LOL Steve.
  10. Well..... It did not go as planned ! I tried to freeze the capacitors (and pretty much everywhere I could on the board) and was not successful at making the ghosting disappear (now that the truck is in the heated garage). I still went ahead and replace the 50V 33mf capacitor and it did not change anything.... I think I'm gonna need a professional in electronics for this one... i'll keep everyone informed if anything changes.. S.
  11. Unfortunately, I was not able to source a local customer. Because of this I was not able to get any kind of measurements...So no skidplates coming for now. S.
  12. no problem...keep them coming... I had read this one though.. and a bunch of others as I am educating myself about this subject.. everything points to the capacitor (50v 33mf). A colder temperature making a capacitor have a greater capacitance is a known fix for a leaking capacitor. Right now the temperature is cold and the display is pretty much perfect. Although I can clearly see the difference between -14c and -1c today. There is a small ghosting effect today and when it was -14c, there was none. I will bring the truck in the garage and start doing some live test at 20C with can of compressed air (turned upside down)... My goal is try to demonstrate that the capacitor is leaking by showing the ghosting disappearing when I freeze it... should be good.
  13. yes..could be.... right now I am trying to understand all the components and which one could react to temperature (the colder the better the part is)... I now have a basic understanding of how the segments get lit up, but I still do not understand why other segments could be dimmed... I'm thinking the capacitor... this will be my next step... ps. I know I could just go and get a replacement part in a junkyard...but then again, where's the fun in this... besides, I have 3 R50 in the driveway.. and 2 of them suffer from this issue... learning how to fix it will eventually pay off i know... S.
  14. So today, -14C and the display was perfect...no ghosting whatsoever... So it DOES look like temperature has a role in this... It's getting more and more interesting as I dig deeper in this.. ! lol in my research, I learned that these display are VFD (Vacuum fluorescent displays)... pretty cool stuff... now the problem has just got more difficult to troubleshoot as it does not do it anymore... I guess I'll have to wait for warmer temperature.. S.
  15. Well, I tried to re-solder all the pins of the led display, but it did not change anything.... I will try to get a hold of someone who knows electronics and will see what he says... I will communicate the details if the situation changes. Cheers.
  16. No.. If i start the truck and the display is good, it will stay like this until the truck is shutdown. Same thing if the ghosting is present at startup... The issue is either there or not at startup...it will not change over time when the truck is running...
  17. yeah, I did repair my clock too by re-soldering the 4 "resistances", but was hoping someone would know what is defective in this electrical circuit... I'll keep my fingers crossed a few more days, then i'll try my luck if nobody can help... and if it can help, tonight coming back from work, the display was perfect with no ghosting... and it's a little more colder outside (-7c) versus 0c this morning.... so i'll try to see if temperature has something to do with this...
  18. Time to use that good old forum.... I have a display issue with my over-head compass and temp that will sometimes be ok and others be like in the picture (kind of ghost display). Before I start to try to fix it, I was wondering if anyone here had seen and fix the issue ? Cheers. S.
  19. Very nice! I just love the black ones !..
  20. Exact... When you order spacers, you will get the right size of bolts with it. On the other hand, if you are upgrading an existing installation and would like a different size of bolts, then you can specify it when you order. For example, you already have 1" spacers installed. You want to go higher and order another 1" spacers. If you do not specify anything, you will get 2.5" bolts. This will be too short if you plan on stacking the spacers with the ones you already have installed. This is why this option is there...so you can specify 3.5" long bolts with your 1" spacer kit. Cheers.
  21. As far as I know, the R51 has adjustable camber bolts... but then again I was told that maybe only the 2005 has them. I would need others to confirm or not this statement. in Any case, I believe Nissan does sell adjustable camber bolts if you need them. Since It is a fairly new product for me, I do not have enough post sale feedback as to the questions you are asking. Maybe ksar could answer some of them...send him a pm.. I will post more answers as I get them. Cheers. S.
  22. They worked until my truck went to the graveyard. Now on my new one, I have my spacers instead of the stiffer coils and I don't need limiting straps anymore to eliminate strut top out... I might re-install them one my other pathfinder project (for trail only) that i'm about to start.. S.
  23. Well, for a start, lift kits and under protection are available here : http://www.sfcreation.com Cheers. S.
×
×
  • Create New...